Jump to content

Making a 1ggze run after manual swap


BlownCorona

Recommended Posts

Hello OS collective,

I once again have underestimated something. i got my modified driveshaft back today, and as per usual, only yesterday decided id see if the engine would want to start after the manual swap. 

inevitably, it did not, No problem i thought, probably just needs the ecu to be told its in park, as none of the gear position lights had lit up. Today i went over the auto trans with a multi meter and found what pins were connected when in park. jammed some paperclips in the corresponding plugs and had "P" show up on the dash. 

still no cranking. doesnt sound like the fuel pump primes, but i cant remember if i could hear this before or not. i dont hear the starter relay click, but the radio ect does turn off when i turn the key to start. 

 

Does anyone know what needs to be done to get a 1ggze to start after the auto has been removed?

 

cheers!

 

image.png.81a4e6e6351a441d6d3188db7f7edc21.png

image.png.27702844a8516155f946cd989c09e53d.png

1ggze-bullfrog-1.jpg.17e7dd0b66a1744e27a7144aada27ae4.jpg

 

1ggze-bullfrog-2.jpg.6d74ebcd47c103e00e5da0e2ab544e58.jpg

1ggze-bullfrog-3.jpg.990c105ff0ba6d512e03fe41e1938150.jpg

1ggze-bullfrog-4.jpg.18241a8a8ea2959b5ffc71a7e1c5e2a4.jpg

image.png.fbea9d9b58d9616f5412bb1753b5109e.png

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know nothing about 1Gs, but are you sure your battery is charged?

The radio is not wired to turn off when you use the starter, the voltage drop from the starter motor load causes the voltage to 'brown out', dropping so low the radio will switch off. Sounds a bit like the when you go to crank there is not enough charge in the battery to provide enough current for the starter to crank, but the voltage will drop enough to turn the radio off.

Check the battery voltage, perhaps stick it onto the charger.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There only looks to be the inhibit switch (probably a separate position switch that was on the selector mechanism) and a 7.5a fuse in the start / crank circuit. 

 

There is also the main efi relay for the likes of energising the ecu and fuel pumps etc.. But it should crank (but not fire) without this main relay energised. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive had it hooked up to a grunty (will start  5.7 hemi dodge ram with no battery fitted) jump starter. but i dont even hear the starter relay click when i turn the key. are you sure the acc circuit gets power when the key is turned to start?

 

ive even left the auto shifter pluged in, perhaps just that 7.5a fuse has blown. 

ill double check the wiring around the shifter though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have discovered that "neutral start switch" is the big electrical box on the side of the trans. that the shifter runs through, im pretty certain i have the switch bypassed. as per usual my 

ill have to check the 7.5a fuse isnt blown, wish i could find the fuse box lid! 

 

still keen on input. 

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

funny you say that - was heading here to give that exact piece if info/clue

thought id cracked the case at lunch today when i checked and the signal wire wasn't connected. (i didn't remove the starter, just pushed it out of the way so it must have gotten dislodged)

but nope. still exactly the same. took a multi meter to the sense wire and its not getting 12v when trying to start. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At the neutral safety switch, do you have 12v at one of the pins when the key is at the start position?
 

the wiring diagrams above, start signal is going to the ecu, But I cannot see output to the starter trigger. Is there a direct wire from the ignition switch or does the ecu control the start relay?

 

At the start relay, do you have constant 12v at one pin and a signal 12v when key at start?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will check all that on monday or potentially during the weekend, the cars stored at work unfortunately. 

I found pictures of the neutral start switch disassembled, and all that it does is bridge to wires in park and neutral. As expected. But also as I've bridged. 

Admittedly it's only bridged with a paperclip so I'll also make a proper bridge, but there's no reason the clip shouldn't work, as it is working for bridging the dash indicator lights. 

I don't think the indicator lights talk to the ecu though. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

youre right, i cant see what the starter is wired in on the above diagrams at all. it must be related to the NSW or else it would start in any gear with the auto

 

it also looks to be that if the AFM wasn't plugged in, the circuit opening relay wouldn't operate. 

something else ill double check i plugged in/is seated correctly. i definitely removed this for another reason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

youre right, i cant see what the starter is wired in on the above diagrams at all. it must be related to the NSW or else it would start in any gear with the auto

 

it also looks to be that if the AFM wasn't plugged in, the circuit opening relay wouldn't operate. 

something else ill double check i plugged in/is seated correctly. i definitely removed this for another reason

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...