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Shrikes latest Australian project


shrike

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So looks like they don't clear the evo front brakes. Seems evos had 15" minimum size so I'll either need to get some 15 or 16 inch rims or put lancer brakes up front for a rwc.

Or just see if I can pass it with the 17x8 wheels

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  • 5 months later...

Ordered an Evoscan cable with the software, didn't realize they had an NZ option so paid for it in USD and ordered from the US :s so could have saved some dollars

But will mean I can read the RVR ecu (similar to the early evo ecu) via the Mitsubishi OBD1 port and check the ISAV/Bliss setup to tune the idle/throttle stop etc correctly plus do some data logging to work out why I have a boost cut at 4psi

Drives really well off boost apart from a couple of of noises I need to investigate (could be intercooler piping banging) and it still needs a wheel alignment

Gave the MAF/AFM a clean with some contact cleaner, have a spare CAS to swap if need be and also been thinking about getting some COPs so that I can do sequential ignition when I go standalone ecu. (means I can rule out the current ignition system as the issue also)

Still need to order bits to upgrade 2nd gear to a dual syncro setup and do syncros/bearings while I have the box apart, time/motivation/budget are not high atm as 2nd gear has the typical syncro issue, possible going to a different gearbox oil may help but again haven't had time to try

Would probably send the gears/diff off for the below (Neat Gearboxes)

"Crack test, shot peening and ISF micro-polishing the gears, this process makes the gears around 30% stronger than stock by reducing the likelihood of crack formation."

"4 spider conversion on the centre diff, this makes the centre differential much stronger by converting the centre to accommodate 4 spider gears instead of the OEM 2-spider design. These are prone to failure in aggressive cornering, launching and so on, so we consider it a “must do” for performance driving."

LSD I can add later on if needed as its a non LSD box

Need to take some pics but added an alloy air duct/bumper mounting thing that I made up and riveted onto the fibreglass bumper, ill get some fibreglass at some stage and mould it in better but having the front bumper firmly attached is a good thing

 
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  • 3 weeks later...

So yeah i am an idiot and didn't set the cas timing correctly with the digital timing light as forgot to decide the reading in half

I have more experience with the dumb strobe based timing 

Reset the idle so thats good at least, should have hooked it up to my laptop and run evo scan but ran out of time, need to take it for a drive to see if its solved the issue of boost cut

Have a tiny bit of clutch drag at redline so need to adjust that as well to see if that helps with my 2nd gear syncro issue (also may try a different fluid) but now that its idling lower and able to drop to lower revs when I put the clutch in I may have less gearbox issues

Edit, clutch pedal was missing a bolt (was wondering why it wasn't sitting high enough based on the workshop manual specs) still need to adjust it to spec but should be another thing I can cross out. 

I should rebuild the gearbox anyway so thinking I may pull the motor and box when I get the time (maybe over xmas) and redo/check the cambelt timing while its all out etc to make sure everythings lined up properly (may even strip the motor down and give it a full service/cleanup) not going to pull the head or anything as compression is good however and ill build another bottom end at some point

Spoken with Jacks transmissions in the states and they can do 1st/2nd gear mods to suit the dual syncros so may go down that route along with the other gearbox upgrades I mentioned in my last post, will also get their full rebuild kit so it'll be all smick. Will have to get the housing sand/vapour/bead blasted and then paint it (thinking maybe some form of grey) 

 

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  • 1 month later...

So ignore my previous comment, timing was reading high as of course it does when you need to divide it in two as its wasted spare

Evoscan and cable don't work as the RVR ecu's I have may be the hybrid OBD1/OBD2 which means I would need to swap to the other dash loom to test and use a different reader. No guarantee that would work as the Evo engine loom is OBD1 so not 100% if the OBD1 and OBD2 engine looms for the GSR are the same or not

Set base timing at 12 degrees (24 on the timing light) factory is 8-10 and everyone says 15 is fine, I only run 98oct as well along with wastegate boost pressure as the boost control isn't hooked up

Also managed to melt the relay to the fuel pump so have gone back to stock wiring for that currently (may have also been part of my intermittent boost issue

Need to take it for a drive but won't be tonight

Also think I have an exhaust leak in the engine bay

Added an extra couple of ground cables and thats removed the cranking issue I was getting

May also have worked out my RVR ecu's are for 510cc injectors instead of the 450cc ones in there so may need to get a set of the right injectors to get it running better

Plugged my speedunio (Teensy version) in and had to re calibrate the TPS in Tunerstudio as it was reading backwards seems the RVR TPS is reverse and the lower reading is full open, checked a few things but didn't try start it as I haven't wired in a map sensor or done some other ground work for it to just plugin and go

Worked out part of my idle issue may be that the Evo 1-3 loom has the wiring opposite on the TPS to the RVR TPS so the fact its reading backwards is giving my ecu the wrong signal. RVR tps are on the opposite side of the throttle body by the firewall and read in reverse

Right now with the engine off the TPS signal is 5v with the throttle closed and 0V at WOT, also means the idle switch isn't being read until WOT by the ecu which explains my fuel cut as when I'm at wot the ecu sees the throttle being closed and it going into idle 

Confirmed wiring is backward as per pic 

Plug and wiring on left is from an RVR the right is the evo 

20221208_225823.thumb.jpg.8bc1215272117fc272840024ac499131.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So TPS is now wired the correct way and the boost issue is gone, need to hook the factory boost control back up so its doing more then wastegate pressure

Idle is better after a few tweaks still not how I want it yet but waiting on a new IACV to arrive to do some more fault finding, cold start wasn't amazing today :s (probably as the Bliss was all the way in)

May have someone interested in buying it so may be sold this weekend, see how we go, didn't really want to sell it but just don't have the time with a 10month old and have lost a lot of motivation due to various issues

Also of course its running the best it ever has and I am getting rid of it lol

Pricing I am looking at selling for is enough for me to consider it, and I still have the AE111 back in NZ so can put some Dollars towards that again next year.

I did have a quick look around at other projects/fun cars but  prices are nuts here and nothing that I am really interested in, tbh don't really need another car :s and maybe I have another look at getting a larger bike again.

Will miss having the option to tinker on something but have a few bits to do around the house

Partners back at work in Jan as well

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Yip sold being picked up tomorrow, guy that's buying it will be getting it finished off professionally. It's his 4th one he's brought (sold his last one when his son was born) slightly conflicted about selling it as I doubt I'll ever be able to get another one 

Got a few spares I'll have to sell separately but got a price im happy with, and gives me some space back ete 

Stay tuned on what I end up getting next. (Probably be end of next year) 

Hoping a few things will come up as interest rates rise and people have less cash etc but will keep an eye out for deals/what pops up at the car auctions

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