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Shrikes latest Australian project


shrike

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Compression tester turned up yesterday, and I cleaned the sparkplugs last week

Decided to do a dry compression test today and see how the old girl went, I have no idea how many kms are on this motor

Had the pipe to the throttle body from the turbo off for the compression test and spark plugs out, cranked it over for 10 compression strokes, probably didn't need too but wanted to see how it went.

Compression test

Cylinder 1

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Cylinder 2

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Cylinder 3

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Cylinder 4

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All pretty much at 150psi, pretty happy with the fact its pretty much the same reading across the board.

I believe 178psi is factory fresh and 133psi is rebuild territory so middle of the range is ok with me for an unknown motor.

Should keep me going until I build another motor

Got it started again, I suspect it doesn't like to start when its cold. Need to get the cold start/idle sorted properly and check the timing again as well, may do that tomorrow as ill move it up the front driveway so I have more ventilation. Still getting some smoke out the exhaust, but suspect its due to sitting so long/shit in the exhaust/ idle/timing could be running abit rich as well.

Makes the right sounds when I give it a small rev so at least its getting in the right direction

Managed to buy a brand new rear bumper as well so that's something else to switch over long term

 

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So did some CAD work today (cardboard aided design) mocked up a new rad mount option and  some shrouding for the half rad

Need to work out what cad software to use so I can draw it up before I can get it cut out of 3mm steel?

May have a play at adding some other ways of mounting the bumper better as well but see how I go

Edit: added some pics of my cardboard mock-ups

Will make more sense on the car 

20210829_100242.jpg

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17 hours ago, shrike said:

So did some CAD work today (cardboard aided design) mocked up a new rad mount option and  some shrouding for the half rad

Need to work out what cad software to use so I can draw it up before I can get it cut out of 3mm steel?

May have a play at adding some other ways of mounting the bumper better as well but see how I go

Edit: added some pics of my cardboard mock-ups

Will make more sense on the car 

20210829_100242.jpg

And done up in solid works, added some extensions/tabs that I can bend up and down on the rad shrouding so that I can bolt it to the lower rad support using holes already there will have to weld on a couple of 10mm locating pins to use the factory radiator brackets but should work ok. Thinking 3mm should do the job for the sides but unsure on what to use for the top as yet, may go a little thicker. Wishing I had a 3d printer right now as I would do some test prints first, still need to find a place that will cut it out for me as well Solidworks.PNG.a5f164c3b8f5707d051f54443f9c370b.PNG

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So no one has come back to me about laser or water-jet cutting me the pieces I wanted, guessing I am just too small a job.

So have reached out to a place that does Aluminum sheet if they can cut me the pieces to the total overall size I want and ill break out the grinder/dremel/jigsaw/drill etc to remove the excess material

  1. 75mmx680mmx3mm
  2. 150mmx435mmx3mm
  3. 150mmx455mmx3mm

Will do the old score with a knife on each side and then bend the ends up trick to get the tabs I want as well once I cut it down to shape

3mm thick should do the job I think and will save some weight on Stainless/Mild steel

Top part I can probably get away with using a 25mm hole-saw for the rad mount hole and a 50mm one to allow for the radiator cap instead of cutting out a square, end angle will be easy with my cut off saw.

Attaching the factory radiator top mounts/brackets may need some thinking or I may have to take it to someone to weld some posts onto

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So Alloy place came back at $100 for the 3 peices, have added a 4th so just confirming new pricing and pickup/payment details 

With the cardboard mock-ups mock-ups the cooling panel I brought 

Cardboard is 5-6mm so will fit better 

should be hidden when I get the mesh installed 

Going to add the 4th peice and either bolt or sika flex it to the bumper as another mounting point behind the number plate area

20210901_164605.thumb.jpg.619f442872e401d67f78d4a68b124acb.jpg

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And the other side

They will fold over at the top and the bottom

Should help seal the rad and inter-cooler so that air is more directed but see how we go 

Also need to look at getting a smaller battery and also options to put a helicoil in the back passenger side bonnet hinge holes (may see a panel beater about getting that done)

20210901_164617.jpg

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Picked up some metal this morning, not 100% sure on what it is, it's not magnetic but doesn't feel soft enough to be alluminum, so could be stainless?

 

Top peice for the rad is 3mm, the bumper support part is 1.5mm, setup a dodgy stainless angle clamped to my bench and used a hammer to bend it. Not the most effective way to do it, but it's worked (should have gotten the place I brought it from use the press brake) but I wasn't 100% on angles and measurements when I picked it up 

Not quite flat in the bumper but should have enough surface to either use sikaflex on it or get some bolts in 

20210903_094928.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

Quick one

Got a factory lancer sedan muffler mounted and changed the front pipe, redid the cat and all the exhaust/mounts.

Just need to cut the rear flange off and rotate it down. Add a downturn and an angle to the rear muffler output and the it should be done

Not super happy with the flange on the downpipe clearance to the drive shaft but if it's an issue I'll grind it down.

With a quieter exhaust I'll be more willing to reset the timing again. Plus have another go at sorting the bliss/idle etc

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  • 3 weeks later...

So rather then finish the exhaust I decided I needed more engines.

Went to pick a part and grabbed this 4G64 out of a mitsubishi nimbus was a 50/50 on if it was a 6 or 7 bolt, was hoping it was a 6 but based on the mounts etc was sure it would be a 7

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And 7 bolt confirmed once the Torque converter is removed, which matches all my other motors that are 7 bolt. Will compare this block to my 4G69 Block and see if I can use the 4G69, can use the crank rods etc either way.

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Trying to sort a time to pick up a Hyundai G4CR (4G61) DOHC motor from FB marketplace for $500, its a 6 bolt has no balance shafts from factory and a 75mm crank.

I just want the head off it as a spare but was considering silly things if the 4G64 was a 6 bolt (like a long rod, large piston but small stroke build) for lots of revs and boost.

Still thinking ill keep under 450nm, and I should really finish the exhaust so I can get it done etc

Also considering rewiring the engine bay, dash loom and build a new "factory" ecu harness (will add an extra connector (later model 4G63) and allow it to run things like DBW etc) for when I got to a different ecu

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  • 2 months later...

Finally managed to set the idle/Bliss/Timing on it, still pretty rowdy without a muffler.

Managed to get it sitting pretty stable at roughly 750rpm when warm, takes a minute when started to get upto idle and almost wants to die even when warm.

Got the ignition timing set at 10 degrees BTDC, however that was with the cas as retarded as I could get it.

Probably should have left it alone however have now flipped the cas inner part around (180 degree) so will redo the timing another day and see if that gives me better adjustment, could be that the wiring/ecu reads the cas the other way around.

I did follow the manual on how to set up the cas but I am not using the factory ecu for this car (RVR ecu) etc and there is guides that outline it needs setting the other way depending on application

Also helps when I read the crank cover markings right and don't try and set it at 15 degrees on the timing gun thinking its at TDC (0) :S

15degress is fine for this setup but trying to keep it at factory of 10

Really need to finish the exhaust so it has a muffler also managed to kerb the rims when I was turning it around so not overly happy with myself.

Still very much needs a wheel alignment and the suspension adjusted properly, probably should find some factoryish rims and tyres for it so I can put the factory suspension in

No pics as I am lazy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did some terrible welding onto the factory lancer muffler, (dodgy angles/pipe sizes etc) just one more pipe/pie cut to weld in.

Then I'll retune it again timing wise

Hopefully volume drops and I'll just need to finish the last of the rust work and maybe factory style rims with the stock suspension (and alignment) before I'll attempt a rwc check 

Few other things I'll slowly do once its regoed 

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Flipping the Cas 180 made it worse so put it back the way I had it. I double checked it with a timing light.

Sorted the exhaust and also give it an alignment tweak, till I can go get it one 

Need to get more fuel and a real alignment done, tempted to take it round the block but my partners out and I'd need to get a non roadworthy permit. 

Still alittle rowdy but not bad overall 

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Making up some brackets for the headlights which I'll weld a support to so I can have some additional mounting points for the front bumper. Using some steel I have laying around and they are way overkill. 

20220412_195747.thumb.jpg.fc6990c3c0354f150be64270dae29993.jpg

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Redid the half rad front mounting, may have gone too thick with 3mm Alloy but it works ok, need to do some clearancing so the aftermarket radiator panel fits. Also may need to add an additional support for it somewhere on the passenger side.

20220412_185422.thumb.jpg.43b51fa0d72de393eec5eeea0a296c77.jpg

 

Haven't bent and installed the alloy radiator ducting up yet either. The big one I wanted to do didn't work out how I wanted so need to remake it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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