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Shrikes latest Australian project


shrike

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Full new set of window switches arrived, rear passenger window is still having issues going back up so might need to give it a clean out or replace it

New front shock canister insert on the way, and have raised the left hand side one without issues, wheel to guard gap is huge atm, will see how it sits once I have the other one back in and it on the ground

Also turned the dampener settings down to the lowest setting on all shocks so its not so hard, will adjust up once I have it on the road and see how it drives with a proper wheel alignment

Have a few other parts on the way

  • Park-light bulbs
  • Door Handle trims
  • Din slot holder

Will have a crack at replacing the turbo (hot) side inter-cooler piping to try get some more ground clearance this weekend, not touching the down-pipe off the turbo at this stage so that will be my lowest point, need to give the car a good clean as well

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So the rad pipe adapter with the M16x1.5 threaded hole the 1/8"npt side had been tapped on an angle so the temp sensor I have wouldn't fit

Ebay seller asked me to destroy it and he would refund me so I cut it in half with my grinder

Cut.jpg.44cb51c1b9a24a826188ff30c293423f.jpg

Rummaged around in my tool box and found I did have a 14mm drillbit so drilled another hole in the original adapter I had and tapped that

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  • 2 weeks later...

Saw an RVR pop up at the Kilsyth Pick-apart on Thursday, thought I wonder if it will have bits I want as spares. Drove the hour there for when it opened at 9am and discovered its

  • Auto
  • Diesel
  • 4 stud and rear drum
  • Someones already taken the motor, gearbox and diff (funnily the transfer case was on the ground)
  • Rear axles are smaller then the ones I have so no good
  • Front drivers side axle is smaller and non abs to what I have so no good

Considered grabbing the front exhaust but cost wasn't worth it when I would have to mod anyway

Was like ok this place should still have two cc lancer station wagons so ill grab some bits off them, discovered they had gone :(

Sat in the car and had a look at the other wreckers as I had already paid for tolls and found out the Imlachs in Dandenong had just gotten a station wagon in.

So drove the 30mins to get there (still an hour to get home from this wrecker) and I hit gold managed to get the below for $100 (tempted to go back and grab the engine tbh) cluster said 500000km but the interior was immaculate and the engine looked new under the oil cap. Exterior was rough as, was hoping to grab a front bumper and grill for RWC as trying to get it to pass with a fiberglass evo 3 bumper will just not work. But they were too far gone (so ordered a brand new set from Supercheap and another left hand indicator for $150)

Managed to get the below from Imlachs

  • Led bulb set for headlights (free)
  • Lots of screws , relays and bolts etc :p (free)
  • Stereo surround in amazing condition (with din pocket etc)
  • Speaker covers (have since discovered my door cards have been hacked so need to get new lower door cards :( Might go back and grab the manual window ones from the wreck another day)
  • 3 door scuff plates in good condition
  • Right hand side vent as mine was cracked
  • LH indicator (not happy with the lens was going to swap lens via oven baking but brought a new one for $26 instead) 
  • Manual gearbox cables as mine were missing the cover on the firewall (mine however have new bushings, ive also got a brand new set from amyama as well)
  • 4 ok quality kenwood speakers as the car has none (Discovered the front doors don't have speaker cables :s) I have a spare dash loom so will have to see if I have them otherwise will need to get some) these where $6 each
  • A custom pod filter adapter/holder (cost me $5) (wont be using it for awhile but couldn't resist with the effort someone had gone into to make it)
  • Another rad overflow bottle as I cant find the one I had :S they charged me for the cap as well :s

Will post pics later

Waiting on intercooler joiners to redo the hot side of the intercooler piping and still waiting on a replacement shock insert

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So my 90 degree silicon joiners arrived today so finished redoing the inter-cooler piping on the hot side

 

Shortened this pipe by about 100mm and put a 90 degree on it

145869297_251632733001010_572802993648342392_n.thumb.jpg.1d2cdbfcc040d2dba05a460f97dc0a86.jpg

Not sure if you can see but the 90 goes into a 180 alloy pipe I had cut in half and then has a straight joiner onto a straight that goes into another 90degree silicon joiner into a shortened 45 degree alloy pipe

 

145645059_357189588577977_149368321174229252_n.thumb.jpg.95eee844d797ad72daceb8bc7dd7bbd3.jpg

Ive actually wrapped the top pipe in gold reflective tape since this pic, however I am not sure how effective itll be so will get some exhaust wrap for it

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Looks heaps tidier then the way I had it with the temp piping, leaves space for a full size radiator again if I want to fix the bottom rad mount.

Vaccum gauge sits rock solid when idling so don't think I have any vac leaks

Lowest point of the car is the dump/down pipe and the exhaust towards the back. Im aiming for 105mm from them so hoping it doesn't look to bad

146485247_830856464128610_6757918462975986407_n.thumb.jpg.e58241fd08b9b688c58f654eaab469f7.jpg

If its terrible after RWC ill tuck everything up more and lower it a little more

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So been promising a video for awhile this is how it sounds now

Think ive got the bliss etc set now so warmup is 1000-1200rpm and drops to 800 when warm

Still bloody loud, timing is set at 5degrees from memory but I may have set it at 10 can't remember off the top of my head, my dodgy cheap timing light still has issues flashing, my electronic light shows it at the 5 degrees mark at 0 degrees on the display so it might be at 10 degrees

No smoke as I haven't overfilled it with oil and the timing is set correctly, also have an ecu I know is for a turbo engine now :)

I actually realized today I have the cam and crank signal wired around the wrong way, so will need to swap them around and re-time the CAS when I have a moment. Right now its drive-able (once I replace the front right coil-over) and not an issue as the timing is correct for the signal its seeing but not ideal long term

Cooling system now has no leaks and holds a pretty constant 82-84C degrees  (middle of the factory temp gauge) the cooling fan comes on with the thermoswitch at 84C and off at 82C so happy that's working now

Waiting on another exhaust adapter (2" to 1 7/8") and a meter of 1 7/8" pipe to arrive so I can finish the modified n/a lancer wagon exhaust and get it quiet for RWC

Ill redo the 3" from the front to the back once I go to a larger turbo

Current 3" may get a resonator or another muffler etc at some point as a temp option

 

Also have a very small slow oil leak around the oil filter, CAS and possibly the cam cover, I have a new cam cover gasket I need to put on

Will keep an eye on them

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New shock insert is meant to arrive today but betting it'll be Monday

Bits for the small exhaust arrived so will tackle that next week as I am at a wedding tomorrow

Probably need to make sure the cooling system has no air in it but will sort that after ive done a short test drive with the new shock insert install (still annoyed I needed one :( ) will do this before I put the small exhaust on and make sure it drives ok (will have a no rego permit, and itll just be around the block) then will book in for a wheel alignment next weekend all going well

Still waiting on a factory GSR bumper and grill to arrive but ill cable tie the evo 3 fiberglass bumper on for the alignment if I have to

The factory lancer wagon exhaust is a tiny 1 5/8" so I have 1m of 1 7/8" to slide over it to step up-to the 1 7/8" to 2" adapter and then a 2" to 3" adapter onto a 3" flange that will bolt onto my font pipe. Hopefully itll be nice and quiet but not overly happy about how much back pressure itll have ha

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New shock insert turned up

20210208_154435.thumb.jpg.584ab978fa39ed71c329168fe4848a66.jpg

Swapped everything over 

20210208_165312.thumb.jpg.fe0c268dc397497e099a806c2ade8a51.jpg

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No pics of it back in 

Also thinking I may need to redo the dump pipe as even with the suspension raised up to almost Max height I'm at something like 85mm of ground clearance. But will have a think and come back to it.

Checked the timing again, also realised my wiring was correct for the cas but my cas plugs off the old haltech loom that has the sensor wiring around the other way.

Warmed her up and the heater runs hot air so think the cooling system is good At this stage.

First/reverse work and engine feels healthy, took it out my driveway briefly and turned it around. Did have some clunking/rattling but think it was the bolts I had loose in the boot. Need to tidy some stuff up and then can take it to the wheel alignment and a short drive.

Still tempted to put the speeduino in it but it'll wait.

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So small fuel leak on the driveway this morning, just had to tighten the fuel tank drain screw so hoping thats sorted it

Small drip of engine oil so need to find out where that's from, and a small drip of gearbox oil again not sure where its coming from

Need to set the Bliss properly this weekend and then decide what I am doing with the front exhaust off the turbo

Edit

Ordered another 2.5-3" adaptor, getting a quote on 6m of 3" 304SS pipe delivered (should be about 100aud plus the delivery fee) and im going to attempt to remake the front pipe, hoping to reuse the cat but might need to shorten some sections.

This may be interesting as there isn't much space

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  • 2 weeks later...

So new carpet I ordered arrived, but discovered its the same as the carpet I have except not hacked up to fit. Will go get some factory carpet from a wreck to use a template to cut it properly/put in the bolt holes.

Put the interior all back in, did some more rust hole welding (still need to grind it back) eyeballed the camber settings. Started to ask around about getting an alignment done, so gave it a wash, paints still average but it isn't covered in dust anymore.

Fixed the power-steering res to pump low pressure top hose leak

Thought I would put a no rego permit on it for a shakedown drive to supercheap to get another exhaust gasket and maybe some oil. Got it out of the driveway and went really well until boost came on, I forgot how quick the factory TD04HL spools on these.

So boost came on and popped an inter-cooler pipe off, I think I got to house number 49 and im number 37. Of course it was the most dodgy one I had installed so will remake that in stainless and clamp it in better. Might invest in a 2.5" adapter so I can put the compressor on it to check for leaks

Manged to get the pipe re-clamped enough to drive it home, under 40km as it wasn't running well.

2nd gear doesn't seem the best so will have to see if it gets better next time I drive it, might have just been me with the puk clutch. Feels like at least one of the brakes is stuck on as its dragging a little as well, so pretty shit drive overall EDIT: jacked it up and turning all wheels in neutral by hand no brakes feel stuck on, front wheel bearings feel pretty sloppy however so hoping I just didnt torque the driveshafts up enough otherwise ill be pulling the front end apart again :s

Realized the drivers seat doesn't have a seat-belt stalk

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Went to the wreckers the other day as they had a crashed lancer sedan

Wouldn't let me buy seat-belt stalks :s so will need to hit the other wrecker up this Sunday all going well

Managed to get

  • Another set of roof trim
  • Another set of guard liners
  • A lower rear windscreen trim piece
  • All the boot carpet and plastic
  • Another stereo surround (in good condition)
  • Another Drivers side vent
  • Factory stereo brackets
  • Factory carpet (need a clean but also good to use as a template for my new carpet)
  • Factory floor mats (need a clean)
  • Rear air-con ducting
  • Cup holder
  • Fuel lines (though the very end was kinked)
  • Boot trim and carpet
  • Spare wheel bolt
  • Another spare footrest in slightly better condition to the one I have

Have also ordered a sedan specific front bumper support

Still need to

  1. Get drivers side Seat belt stalk and install
  2. replace intake side 90degree pipe with a stainless one that's got better clamping options
    • Buy and use boost leak tester
  3. Tighten front axle nuts to torque spec and see if that removes the wheel bearing play
    1579071745_Axlenuts.JPG.e24a6e1df8f597baf10921a174a95807.JPG
  4. If 2 doesn't work then order and replace front wheel bearings
  5. Test drive
  6. If test drive goes ok then book in a wheel alignment

Sure there will be another list after the next test drive

Before RWC

  1. Finish and install small exhaust and possibly remake front down pipe
  2. Set height at 105mm at lowest point (may need new down pipe to achieve this
  3. Finish boot rust repairs and paint boot
  4. Under-seal boot underside
  5. Finish mounting rear bumper
  6. Swap front rad supports
  7. Remount inter-cooler
  8. Install factory bumper (and if that doesn't fit install evo 3 bumper)
  9. Redo radiator top mount so that my rad cooling panel fits (may also use this to help secure bumper?)
  10. Factory carpet
  11. Factory boot trim
  12. Spare wheel?
  13. Tidy up wiring

Then im sure Ill get a list from the RWC guy

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not a massive update but got the torque wrench onto my cv/axle nuts, they where semi loose so hoping thats resolved my bearing issue at the front. Couldn't get the gearbox to lock in gear (reverse or 2nd) with both front wheels off the ground (open diff) so had to put a wheel on and finish tightening through the center. Not the best way to do it I know but ill see how it drives later.

Haven't remade the intercooler pipe but have flared it with some pliers so waiting on my boost leak tester to arrive before the next maiden voyage.

Brought another front bumper support so need to swap that over, its not 100% straight so need to tweak it and work out how the top of my intercooler will mount now :s

Still keen to get a spare rear bumper

Haven't had much motivation lately or time, weather also has been average

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  • 1 month later...
39 minutes ago, Regan said:

Where’s the updates man? Or you given up on this site?

No current updates, think I started it the other-day to move it back in the car port slightly haha. Cold start is a b***h so need to have another crack at the BLISS adjustment/setting again after I get the leak tester onto the piping

Haven't had much motivation for it lately, which is annoying as its really close, may have time this weekend to do some more to it.

Just need to find the time to get around to it, been busy with other hobbies etc lately.

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On 07/05/2021 at 15:46, Regan said:

Yeah fair enough! It’s a sweet little project man. If you’re keen to sell let me know haha

Some days I do consider just moving it on but would be wanting what I consider silly money for it as thats what the markets like. Car is also in Melbourne so might be a bit far away for you :p

Anyway, managed to chuck the boost leak tester onto the turbo and what do you know cant even get 3psi into it as its leaking out that fast :s so when I get a chance will go round all the clamps again and then start on the old soapy water trick starting at the turbo and moving out.

Also could hear bubbling so really hoping I am not pressurizing the cooling system or something.

Pretty sure the gearbox may have 2nd gear problems based on my last posts but considering it probably needed to warm up and was running like a bag of di*ks it may not be that bad. I do know of a gearbox going for 1100aud in QLD that I may jump on as a spare.

Hoping the leak is just a loose clamp and not a pin hole somewhere :s should probably buy a 2.5" to 3" adapter and a 2.5" bung so I can pressure test each pipe but I suspect itll be easier to just work forward from the throttle body if I have to do that.

Fun times :(

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  • 3 weeks later...

So once I remembered that all the air will go through the engine when I try pressurize intercooler piping I actually managed to make some progress, had to block the waste-gate port off the turbo outlet pipe as well, Found a leak right near the throttle body so nipped the clamp up more (its an odd spot so not surprised) and found one other small one that ive now sorted.

Went to start it and had issues, battery is now on charge as I couldn't hear the fuel pump running when I cranked it, checked power to the pump in multiple spots and it was down to 8v ran a wire from the battery direct to the pump and it primed as I was worried the pump may have died.

Hopefully ill get it running tomorrow and can work out the idle/ how fucked 2nd gear is etc, assuming I can do that Ill get it an alignment after lockdown ends.

Part of me is ready to rip all the wiring out and start again, anyone know where I can get new early 4G63 connectors (and the tools to terminate them?) seriously considering building a new loom. Though I may just piss it off and buy a haltech with an early 4g63 harness and then wire that in :s Ive also got another engine bay loom (headlights/fusebox/abs etc) to swap too at some point.

Thinking about what steering column would be best to use for an electric steering conversion as well, kind of keen to remove the hydraulic system and just pack the current rack with grease. Also need to work out an aircon setup but that can wait till its actually on the road.

Hoping once its running I can get it a RWC and then will get it on club rego

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok small update, CAS wiring one wire had come loose so no fuel due to that

Fuel pump still isn't getting 12v at cranking, also not getting 12v when key on to prime. Swapped out MPI with no change, have diagrams so need to do some more fault finding, may end up wiring up a new relay and using the low power thats currently being sent to the fuel pump to trigger it. Will see how I go tomorrow, a little bit frustrating as it was previously working, also need to remind myself how the MPI works as its two relays etc

Might get it going tomorrow all going well but not holding my breath.

On another note all my outside/garage/shed lights along with my house lights are all LED now

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  • 3 weeks later...

So MPI works as expected, only issue is the output for the fuel pump is only getting 9v when the ecu grounds it (during cranking) so the pumps not pumping

I could wire up a dedicated relay for the pump that can use the 8-9v when cranking to trigger the relay for the pump so it only runs when cranking and then while running

Other option is I run the trigger to switched ignition and have it running whenever the ignition is on (perhaps with an added switch) but not sure if I am keen on that

Will have a think and report back

Again seriously tempted to rewire the whole car lol

 

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  • 1 month later...

So few small updates

Works fine and the pump now primes when it should etc again. Part of me is wondering why the pump suddenly stopped working properly, considering it was previously running and driving (not well but that was due to other issues)

Can't get the dam thing to start atm, I have fuel, I have spark, have pulled the plugs and have cleaned them up to see if that makes any difference. Ordered a new compression tester as I can't find mine/the one I had was very questionable, will check compression to rule that out.

Could be timing, I even went back to the old cas wiring to rule that out as being an issue, have ordered a new crimping tool as my current one isn't suited to the new Cas plug connector I have so will re terminate that. Could also be a dodgy cas, but if I have fuel and spark I doubt it. In saying that it wants to go and it is bloody cold atm so perhaps the cold start is the issue.

Still looking at options

Also trying to remember if I've had it running with the ecu thats in it atm, perhaps I should try hooking the 2G cam and crank sensor back up and see if that works

Part of me wants to

  • Buy an OBD1 capable OBDII scan tool and the adapter to see what its doing
  • Investigate the ecu (RVR) and see if that's shit itself
  • Plug in my Speedunio and see what it can pick up (need to add the module so it can run the IACV)
  • Make a new factory style loom for it so if I do go to a Haltech 1500 long term and know the wiring is good
  • Buy a new factory loom (Amayama may have them) but its like 1500AUD so feel that I could put that money into an aftermarket option
  • Just buy a Haltech and see if I can get it to work with my questionable current loom
  • Buy a Haltech 1500 with its own 4g63 specific harness and get rid of the factory loom

If I go down the Haltech pathway I want to also

  1. Install 1000cc injectors for an E85 Tune
  2. Move to R35, Hitachi IGC0002 or K20/K24 coilpacks
  3. Change to the DBW throttle body and pedal I got from a 4G69 Outlander so I can piss off the Bliss etc

Frustrating as I had it running, also wondering if its had some stop leak or excess RTV/Silcone come loose as I have found some residue on the spark plugs

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