Jump to content

Shrikes latest Australian project


shrike

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 146
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

So weekend had some progress

Painted the top of the fuel tank, can clearly tell I used a paint brush but itll do, considering getting some 5mm foam from bunnings to redo the old ones but not phased atm probably do the bottom tonight and then do some more of the car underside

Mate who pulled it out at his place has misplaced some of the nuts holding the pump and sender units in so ordered some new nuts that I hope will fit

The fuel pump has a Bosch 255LPH pump installed so should be plenty of fuel for what I want, and I can always reinstall the surge tank and the twin 044s if need be

118472257_2682673708642918_979084433669462603_n.thumb.jpg.f9315694770b6526698318a2b4d723db.jpg

Had another go at the holes in the boot but think ill pay someone to do it as I am failing and just making it worse, so will leave doing the under seal on that section until that's fixed. Have someone who can come do that and the repairs at the front end but has to wait until after level 4

Started doing the under seal for underneath the diff area and fuel tank, will take a few coats to get it to the thickness I want

Rock auto package 1/4 arrived today Front Brake rotors, 1 caliper and brake pads (think they are fronts) checked the bolt spacing on the hub and they should bolt up

Not sure if I should have put the money towards a 5stud conversion or not but oh well, hoping I am starting to get the final bits to get this car ready for a RWC

118537494_327645795316356_2401147951003789345_n.thumb.jpg.6cd69b1237aaa91247db6ad186c89ffc.jpg118573316_363831467965445_9164376847311325376_n.thumb.jpg.520df3e93eaafcddfa57f55599de80fe.jpg118387236_636845826953440_3671884437023349753_n.thumb.jpg.7d7deb083eacce87b42c90cc594b6dbe.jpg118523932_2613999485579279_8749583131474786786_n.jpg.510194a33db8ffa5992e396b513e30b1.jpg

Went for the cheapest pads/calipers and rotors as they will only be on the car short term, will go back to the AP racing 4pots later on

Also hopping the AP racing lines and banjo bolts fit otherwise ill need to get some for the calipers (already have a set of braided lines for factory calipers but would be good to not need to change them)

Sprayed some paint stripper onto the rear bumper support bar and did some more wire wheeling, hoping to paint that this week/weekend as well so I can put it back onto the bumper.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Because I'm looking for some disc rotors myself for the VR-4, I went looking for the same rotors on rockauto and after looking more closely there and above at your pics, I still don't think those rotors are multi 4/5 stud. 

Compare the pattern on those disc rotors with the multi pattern on a set of multi 4/5 stud spacers and hopefully you'll see what I mean:

image.png.d18d2e61ec67f1d3e7acdd7fb629bde2.png

 

Would love to find a pair of 276x24 4x114.3 slotted or slotted & drilled/dimpled but local options in NZ are very limited and even finding something overseas is hard now. Rear disc rotors are under $20 each on rockauto so I'm definitely getting some of them as they are a bit lighter than the fronts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the front rotors I ordered dont fit, seems one hole doesn't line up, trying to decide if I just drill a hole, however the other holes are slightly larger then the studs

Im wondering if they are multi 5 (5x100 as well) or 4x100 

Out 125aud including shipping but will make for an easy 5stud swap later

20200901_130203.thumb.jpg.0a985ef0e3cb98654b6868abd95c4a26.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, fuel said:

Because I'm looking for some disc rotors myself for the VR-4, I went looking for the same rotors on rockauto and after looking more closely there and above at your pics, I still don't think those rotors are multi 4/5 stud. 

Compare the pattern on those disc rotors with the multi pattern on a set of multi 4/5 stud spacers and hopefully you'll see what I mean:

 

As per above post you are correct, have now ordered another set locally for 132aud that are 100% the correct item

Was worth the punt though and if I do go down the 5stud path (with factory sized brakes) it will be just a new front bearing and a 5x114.3 driveflange/hub into the factory knuckle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Few small updates, put the rear end back in last weekend.

Set the alignment as neutral as I could based on my limited skill

Replaced the rear CV boots

Outers are Kelpro CIB-230

Inners are CIB-516 (CIB-519 are for later models)

Also replaced the front inner boot, need another cv boot to suit the outer tripod that attaches to the hangar shaft

 

Also gave the rear wheels a spin and suspect its got an LSD, need to pull the diff plate off (need to do all oils anyway) to confirm but considering the other bits it has and the fact its been dragged previously I wouldn't be surprised

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used the grease trick to remove the auto Spigot Bush Collar from the back of the crank (its originally an auto motor from an RVR) will put the flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts and clutch on when I get a spare minute. You can also see the brand new spacer plate for the gearbox/starter motor installed

120930262_2694643944187243_5411058609074605172_n.thumb.jpg.bbc161e00123c7e29673d64da9bba0d6.jpg

121012052_845488889612952_1864717672056251799_n.thumb.jpg.8cdc0e5e920f2b6ef21f562c173f1762.jpg

Painted some bits

121258994_672558363662690_6179797905066569233_n.thumb.jpg.e50c9c1cc333cf1001735b1e9713a329.jpg

Also pressed in new lower ball joints, found some extended ball joints from Fatboy racing that correct lowered steering geometry so will get a set of them at some point. Need to do another coat of paint on them as well (some came off when pressing in the ball joints)

121073950_375418756966541_5414103172360124993_n.thumb.jpg.b403b79bd9a42f69458de612f8798b20.jpg120938778_1729895640494761_6401593650377685685_n.thumb.jpg.d838e62866da84447240ac32bd162274.jpg

Not sure if ill get much more done this weekend but at least a little progress

Also most of my parts arrived from Amyama if I hadn't already mentioned

Waiting for lockdown restrictions to ease (mainly the 5km rule) so I can go to the wreckers, need to get a clutch master cylinder pin and clevis so I can attach it to my clutch pedal along with some other bits I am missing

Fuel lines, emissions gear (maybe) bolt for the fuel tank, bonnet bolts, foot rest

Also need to order some hub centric rings (73.1mm to 67.1mm)

Considering some more factory wheels too but will see if I can get through a roadworthy without

Hesitant to put the motor back in until after I get fuel lines sorted

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Public holiday tomorrow so weather dependant planning on sorting a few more bits.

Ordered a few more parts from Meek automotive as I can't find my clutch fork and that's what's stopping me from putting the gearbox and engine back together on the bay

Once restrictions ease ill go raid the factory fuel lines out of a lancer wagon along with a few other bits. 

Current thoughts are to get it running and see what it needs for RWC before next steps.

Still need to confirm all the wiring works as well 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Test fitted the gearbox and worked out how the clutch slave goes on 

Put the flywheel and clutch on

20201023_103229.thumb.jpg.54b60af11c3f5fb86b57e539dbef3394.jpg

Arp bolts to 95ftlb with locktite and the arp grease under the heads

Clutch pressure plate bolts to 22ftlbs 

Aligned with an alignment tool

Checked the electrics work, passenger side window doesn't go down. Rear drivers is slow. Dash works, lights work etc and no smoke. Tipping the controls need cleaning/replaced. Ac unit and clock doesn't work so will need to see if I plugged it back in.

Put the last of the wiring back to factory, need to work out the starter motor signal

Removed the throttle cable as I'll be using an RVR one to match the motor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So Cracked it and this happened 

20201026_202546.thumb.jpg.eaea5000515f8c1074f75bb21457204a.jpg

Clutch slave is on need to reconnect the braided line and get a clevis so I can bleed it

20201026_202538.thumb.jpg.71f3ff03b9e4794509817fce7a9c3429.jpg

Starter motor is on, couldn't find one of the starter motor bolts so unsure what the bolt I used was meant to to be on but will work it out later.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also replaced the steering rack bushes 

Have a Manual Turbo RVR loom on the way with 3 RVR ecus. The auto RVR loom I have came with the dash side plugs (with pigtails) and I have a Auto 1.8 GLXI Lancer loom that ill steal the correct dash plugs from so I can make a quick patch loom 

Means I can get it running on a factory ecu for rwc and rego and then put the Speeduino in after

Will need to get an OBD1 (or it might be a OBD11) plug and cabling from the wreckers as I dont seem to have one 

Need to get the front axles/cvs back in (still need to do one cv boot and put new abs rings on) new tie rod ends, front knuckles, front brakes. 

Front cross member 

Bleed the brakes 

Have to get fuel lines (or I may make some) put the fuel tank back in, which may mean I need to drop the rear end out again :s im getting pretty quick at doing it though.

Probably get my fab guy to do some welding next week (depending on availability) 

Put the steering column back in (as it was clunking when I put it in today so pulled it out again) Sort out the cooling system and intercooler piping, a front pipe for the exhaust. Also the exhaust it came with needs to go as its pretty much a straight pipe (need to buy a cat) 

Then front end back on hopefully

Also discover the engine has no oil in it so new oil for the gearbox, Diff, Transfer case and Engine. (I'll crank it over to get oil pressure up before I start it) 

Might pull the stump and reseal it before I do so, head looked pretty clean.

Not sure if the guy I brought it off dropped the oil or what. I suspect my mate who had it at his place may have done it and not told me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So as posted in the spam thread

How dodgy is using Diesel oil in a 4g63t? 

20201030_145938.thumb.jpg.18da084b646a26fa0db912acfcc94a90.jpg

Currently has no oil in it, unsure if its leaked out or if my mate took it out. Don't want to put good oil in it until I go to run it but not sure if I want it to have nothing in it/want to see if I can find the leak.

Looks pretty clean in the head through the oil cap other then the varnish

20201030_145909.thumb.jpg.ae78c1b1c35746e819f8c19df843e271.jpg

Also have some

20201030_145921.thumb.jpg.b6ede0b160c740d9bd4b8d3f1f8d2aa5.jpg

Oil came with the house lol

Heard diesel oil just has more detergent so might help clean any shit out 

Plan is to run 10w40 in it when I get it running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No oil showing on the dipstick however this is what came out of it 

20201031_095200.thumb.jpg.738a224e2d28234c04b396f5ae9fcf26.jpg

So sweet f**k all, will put some Diesel oil in it for now (put the whole 5L as ill see if any leaks out) turned it over by hand and engine turns over and feels like it has compression so all good

Also dropped the front CVs and a set of evo 4 abs rings to my fab guy hes going to heat the rings/freeze the cv stub axles to get them on, he may need to take some material of the rings ID as well 

Evo 4 abs rings 43 teeth(Reluctors) are 65.95mm ID and my cv joints are about 67mm OD im using RVR axles/cvs and the model RVR it come from didnt have abs. I could get the next gen RVR (1997-2003)cvs with abs rings as they are the same measurements but trying to keep with the parts I currently have as they are in ok condition 

Need to replace one inner boot when they come back and then I can reinstall 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

diesel oil is fine it just has extra detergents in it, but judging by the varnishing under the rocker cover it could do with a bit of a clean. I'm running 15W40 diesel oil on my 6G72 DOHC and so far so good - has made the lifters quieter too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, fuel said:

diesel oil is fine it just has extra detergents in it, but judging by the varnishing under the rocker cover it could do with a bit of a clean. I'm running 15W40 diesel oil on my 6G72 DOHC and so far so good - has made the lifters quieter too.

Once I get it all running and rwc/rego ill be building a 4G69 Bottom end for it to swap the head onto (or getting another head/motor) so will clean it up properly before it goes on the new motor

Thought the Diesel oil would be ok and hopefully it cleans the engine abit, was going to run 10w40 but 15w40 should be fine for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok few more updates

Got the front coil-overs back in, replaced the last boot on the inner front right cv and put both cvs back in. Not sure if I put the abs sensor wires back in properly so need to check that

123267752_296528728042787_5455881398074282677_n.thumb.jpg.1192b9da188fb9849211668cf54bafec.jpg

123138990_342772877024254_1577234708564439250_n.thumb.jpg.a5783188ab5515269c7327a6a53d420e.jpg

Went to put the tie rod ends on and seems I have been sent the wrong ones :(

123339125_527552611825358_8859314487353656654_n.thumb.jpg.bb3df0d77af81e1a14825b1bdd2be1f0.jpg123137179_690094144974505_3690248733000383150_n.thumb.jpg.8e085c9cb13ed0018b34499ef078f86a.jpg

Messaged the seller on ebay so hoping I can get a refund, have ordered another set from another supplier

The evo loom I brought from NZ that was meant to be uncut has a few minor issues, the spare RVR loom I got with 3 factory ecus is going to be a lot of effort to get to work and as my evo loom has already been cut I will repair/mod that.

Have a new Cas plug to go on as the cas plug is broken but I may just rewire it to run the RVR 2G style crank and cam sensor on the other side of the engine. I have an evo cas but not sure I want to take the rocker cover off at this stage.

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So started doing some wiring

Plugged every thing in that I could, removed the plastic injector cover and some tape so that I could get wires to go where I needed (ill re tape/sleeve and put the cover back on once everything works)

Went looking for the starter motor wire which had been cut and was a fair way up the loom, grabbed the cable off the dodgy loom that came with the aftermarket ecu, temp join to make sure it worked. Managed to get the car to crank on the 2nd try, first try hadn't grounded the starter properly and it just clicked. Which lead me to pull it out and manually test it.

123372749_406822430478347_8669172000784036223_n.thumb.jpg.d5a693cb1e59af54d006e30b50d554e0.jpg

Loom was also missing the reverse light plug, stole a knock sensor plug off the spare auto 1.8 GLXI lancer engine loom I have and wired that in, again just temp to make sure they worked, will get some proper connectors to join them later on

123198228_695297751115308_7069907834558335085_n.thumb.jpg.55d53e1bd3590ae89d5228d717a2dd4f.jpg

Seemed to work fine when I put the car in reverse ( I also put the selectors and clips onto the gearbox cables so can change gear etc missing a few split pins that I need to buy) need to replace the drive-train fluids though

123317064_2814661555484017_1740224577686968736_n.thumb.jpg.1138d2958957e39ed32771c9363033a3.jpg

Not sure what this plug is for (suspect its for aircon) its next to the washer bottle, need to do some research

123115888_2821056524829711_3400772756962568310_n.thumb.jpg.6aca16e7df4a2e6c81a964352b18e607.jpg

Also no idea what this one is for it comes off next to the reverse switch

123241892_2770859516505903_566690330666098651_n.thumb.jpg.827d3869a2d8e3fb33d0270df93e8be4.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So tidied up some more wiring today, also give it another crank and it spins over all good. Still unsure if ill use the Evo Cas or keep with the RVR setup (guess it depends what I can get to work) cant hook up fuel till I get fuel lines, and I need to test if its sparking.

Ordered a whole heap of silicon joiners and the parts to start making a front pipe, the exhaust I have for it needs to have a center muffler added and maybe a resonator but will sort those out later.

Exhaust

2.5" flanges

2.5" to 3"

3" 90 degree

3" by 6" flex joint

3" 200 cell cat (with 02 bung)

3" triangle flanges

Might need some more straight pipe or a 45 but will work it out once I do the first bit

Intake

2.75" T clamp

2" T clamp

2.5" T clamps

2.75" to 2.5" straight

2.75" to 2.5" 90 degree

2" to 2.5" straight x 2

Will start mapping out what inter-cooler piping I need

Inter-cooler I have won't fit with a factory Lancer bumper support so may need to look at another option

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...