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Toyota R15X sharns


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1 hour ago, kyteler said:

That's a good tip.  I wonder how adaptable a typical CD case is to one. 

Definitely one to try lodge into the memory banks for available options. 

Chances are they'll be sorter too then to accommodate the transfer case or not so much? 

once this virus stuff is lifted and im back at wok (or might be able to get it from said engineer) ill post the exploded diagrams he had got ahold of. 

they should be the same length, just a little weird looking sans transfer case because all the internal shafts ect were the same parts. 

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getting a little off topic. but i *think* this is the same as the what we have. 

You can see a standard looking output shaft and seal, and a bunch of meat which may get cut off, depending on if its structural. certainly should be able to slim it up a little. but its a race car and room can be made for anything. 

Nissan Navara D40 NP300 6 speed manual gearbox | Engine, Engine ...

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What about something like a 4l60/4l80e?

 

 

 

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Sorry for the joke .

I'll se myself out

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I have the R151 behind the 4.0 V6 petrol in my Hilux currently, no complaints, apart from a squeaky clutch release bearing. Done around 140kms

Brother just sold one, also 4.0 v6, it had done 430,000 and was still going strong.

Workmates diesel turbo one just blew a box at about 350000kms. It was fairly neglected and mistreated though.

$2000 sounds expensive for a rebuilt one, I think they are 2500-2700ish brand new from toyota.

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Pete, I'd run a quarter master or Howe hydraulic throwout on the clutch. 

Very simple to setup, and I've never had any grief from the setup itself - I've blown seals, but that was after I had snapped a braided line when the dowel broke, which in turn wrecked the housing bore. 

Afco 3/4 Master Cylinder and pedal was all of about $65, for a manufactured pedal & bracket which can be either floor or hanging mount

By all means pop over at some point and have a look in the tank.

I know a guy that changed his soarer streetstock as he kept blowing W Series, 3 within the start of the year, R154 and no issues. 

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https://cardwells.co.nz/clutches/howe-hydraulic-release-bearing.html

There's a few places that sell them. They're simple enough to setup - basically subtract the distance from the back of the block to edge of your clutch fingers, and the distance from gearbox snout to edge of bellhousing. Allow the smallest amount of freeboard. You just shim the whole setup to where you want. 

Recommend two hoses, one from pedal "in" and one coming back "out" so it can be bled without the need to take gearbox/bellhousing off.

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Yea both my celicas have 154s. First is notchy even in the brand new ones,  the rest is good. 

As long as your happy with the ratios of the 151 you should be good,  I can't see how you would be, but whatever works.

The hilux shifter makes a really good short throw shifter once you cut the unnecessary length of them. 

Umm, if you do go 154 there are a few different gear stick location plates and they're not all interchangeable. 

Hydraulic throw out for the win too, just leave more gap than is recommended because the 3-5 mm that the tilton ones recommend is way to small a gap. 10mm on setup works fine. 

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First is stupid low 4.3:1

In a landcruiser with 2.5 ton behind it it's great to get moving.

But even when is empty I find first annoyingly low and second it to high to start in end up punishing the clutch. 

2c

 the 154 is like 3.3: 1

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Right. 

 

I have a friend with a late 2wd hilux, I'll see if I can drive it when things settle down and decide from there.

Wikipedia says that the 2wd box has a talker first than the 4wd ones, I see what people are saying though.

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On 28/03/2020 at 09:31, sheepers said:

Hydraulic throw out for the win too, just leave more gap than is recommended because the 3-5 mm that the tilton ones recommend is way to small a gap. 10mm on setup works fine. 

Did you have to use a 3/4″ master cylinder?  I've seen this recommended for the Quartermaster release bearing.

I'm looking at using a ORC or OS Giken clutch with their movement kit to turn it from a pull to push clutch.  But the hydraulic bearing would make life easier (and cheaper).

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