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Toyota R15X sharns


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As some of you know I also have a V8 Valiant, it doesn't see the road much as I have a couple of issues to sort out with it which hopefully I'll start attending to soon.

Long story short, one of the things I don't like about it is the automatic transmission it has. The transmission is fine, shifts well etc but it's just a bit dull.

So I want to make it manual which isn't as easy as it sounds, also to quantify it has a 383, so "chuck a W50 in it M8" isn't really an option.

Gear box choices seem a bit limited or expensive, There are plenty of manual boxes available ex USA but they are race orientated, expensive, and a bit agricultural looking.

A833s are around but they are old AF, 4 speed, likely fucked, will need an expensive shifter etc.

Big commodore and falcon boxes are expensive too, hard to come by, and huge.

W5x boxes are expensive now and probably not up to the task?

R154 seems like an option, they are reasonably priced(ish) but they are long, it would put the shifter in the back seat, I could move it but meh.

Finally I see the R154s ginger haired brother, the R150/151. Cheap, available,strong, short, forward shifter, long input shaft available, R154 up grade parts fit. I'm not fussed by the wider ratios, I have enough torque to stop it from being a problem.  

Give me your thoughts, what do you know about R150/151. Is this a good idea? 

 

Valiant pic as proof of ownership.

apshvh0p.04w.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Not that keen tbh. Price, size, shifter location, etc.

I have as much room as I care to make, I'd prefer to leave the tunnel strengthener in place but needs must.

Also I think weight is the main factor with the 5th gear issues, a cruiser towing a trailer could be up to 6t. Google says a stock AP is 1200KG I feel like that will give me room to move.

 

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Yeah I saw them too but again they are big, long, and expensive for the reasons you mentioned.

The attractive thing about the Toyota ones is the price, short length, shifter location, and the potential to use R154 upgrade parts if required.

 

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My experiences with clutches are,

That a metric fuckton of thought goes into every aspect of factory clutch design.  From the pedal travel, pedal sweep/arc, lever length etc. 

How I intend to manual convert my VJ, is to have an angled aluminum block machined up, which enables an MC to be mounted flush to the firewall where the factory push rod (to the Z bar) normally protrudes. Then run a stock pedal, and just have to fine tune the length of the flat bar (on the end of the clutch pedal shaft) that the push rod (to the z bar) normally attaches to. (To get the correct stroke length for the master cylinder) this will place the cylinder down low. But it's nothing to mount a remove reservoir higher in the engine bay. (You're not running  a booster, so theres less stuff in the way) 

What's then easiest is to run whatever clutch set up the donor stuff used. If they're from a cruiser, then there should be some pretty heavy duty clutch options. And at a pinch you could run a billet flywheel to suit your needs.

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3 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Also I wouldnt fret any about a weak fifth gear. It's not like you'll be smashing into it.  Even at the drags you'll never see top gear. 

Also, almost all manufacturers appear to suggest never using OD gears during towing regardless. 

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What kind of bucks do these gearboxes sell for?

A quick Google found some.aussie blokes talking about them. They agree that the r150 has a 5th gear made of glass. They run more overdrive than the H150 box, and if they get hot the gear explodes. 

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I spent a fair bit of time looking at manual boxes to use behind a mercedes v8. Ended up on deciding to use a t56 for the following reasons

Removable bellhousing 

Very strong,

Double over drive giving nice cruise rpms

Easy clutch options,

Pretty easy to pick up secondhand or spend the money and buy a brand new one

 

Other factory boxes that are strong are the ones behind the v6 nissan 350z ect and a bmw GS6-53 

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Are the Soarer auto boxes up to that kind of Torque? There's controller kits to make them into Semi-Auto, with control over clutch engagement rates, if that removes enough dullness? Apparently they're strong in the original application, get replaced with manuals, so they're plenty available and cheap ?(disclaimer, info may now be a decade out of date)

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we picked up a navara (?) i thnk it was 6spd trans for the hemi powered merc sl600 racecar were building at work for 5/10ths of fuck all. its the same as a CD009 but the ratios are a bit messed up, essentially we should be operating it as a 5spd because 1st will be useless. i haven't looked too closely at it, but a pretty senior engineer was driving the decision. 

its a 4wd gearbox, but he discovered that the transfer case is pluged into the normal cd009 output shaft. so we pull the transfer case off and plug in the driveshaft and good to go. itll look a bit weird because the tail housing is meant to have a transfer case plugged into it. but function+price > looks for a transmission. it was something like $200 from memory

weve yet to see if we can remedy the gear rations, but with the correct diff ratios it should be mint as a 5spd. 

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26 minutes ago, h4nd said:

Are the Soarer auto boxes up to that kind of Torque? There's controller kits to make them into Semi-Auto, with control over clutch engagement rates, if that removes enough dullness? Apparently they're strong in the original application, get replaced with manuals, so they're plenty available and cheap ?(disclaimer, info may now be a decade out of date)

No thanks.

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20 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

we picked up a navara (?) i thnk it was 6spd trans for the hemi powered merc sl600 racecar were building at work for 5/10ths of fuck all. its the same as a CD009 but the ratios are a bit messed up, essentially we should be operating it as a 5spd because 1st will be useless. i haven't looked too closely at it, but a pretty senior engineer was driving the decision. 

its a 4wd gearbox, but he discovered that the transfer case is pluged into the normal cd009 output shaft. so we pull the transfer case off and plug in the driveshaft and good to go. itll look a bit weird because the tail housing is meant to have a transfer case plugged into it. but function+price > looks for a transmission. it was something like $200 from memory

weve yet to see if we can remedy the gear rations, but with the correct diff ratios it should be mint as a 5spd. 

That's a good tip.  I wonder how adaptable a typical CD case is to one. 

Definitely one to try lodge into the memory banks for available options. 

Chances are they'll be sorter too then to accommodate the transfer case or not so much? 

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