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Sunbeam’s Land Rover


Sunbeam

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G'day 

I'm quite a fan of LPG, got a pic of the old tank?

There will be a valve where the fuel line meets the tank. Shut it off and crack the line, there will be some hissing but it just the gas still in the line, it won't hiss for long.

You can take the tank out from there.

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  • 3 months later...
6 minutes ago, Sunbeam said:

I took the dash off yesterday too. Pretty straightforward really, though some of the screws are in awkward places. Also, slotted screws are of the devil, and should not be allowed in any automotive application. The lower dash panel obviously contained a lot of detritus, so I shook it out on the workshop floor...

4A7132F1-90E5-4549-B082-2112516459FF.thumb.jpeg.c59d0f07c96648ced99ae3fbb724fe78.jpeg

Actually a bit comical really. More live ammo too. .22, .22 magnum, and 12 gauge shot gun. 
 

 

Scabine would be a great name for the truck

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Go with the sanding discs for sure, I mostly use 36 grit, they take a lot of material off for the first 5 mins then settle down sweet. For fine stuff 60 grit, but once it blunts it takes too long to do anything.

I almost never use a grinding disc nowadays.

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  • 7 months later...

Sorry, poste din the wrong bit before. But Yeah, when you re mount your flat deck, don't weld brackets to the chassis or you'll have to get a LVV cert. I did that on the last 109" flat deck I built and it was a pain! Make brackets that pick up on existing fixtures, or make a clamp arrangement

20190829_170252.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 06/01/2021 at 13:38, Sunbeam said:

Good to know. Sounds like a ballache. How did the re-vin people know the deck wasn’t always mounted like that?

They didn't care. It clearly wasn't from factory so they weren't happy. The LVV cert guy even thought it was a bit over kill, but was happy to cert it and collect his $600 

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  • 3 months later...

hey old comment now but you said you wanted to get some flap discs.

They are good, but for clean up after welding like that, Rolok discs are heaps better because they let you put a flat rotating face down onto the flat panel. Seen tons of bits fucked by people with flap discs when they remove/gouge the original steel!

 

Cool project overall, looks like you are doing a bloody great job. 

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4 hours ago, tortron said:

Looks good enough to save. plus it only has to look good in the photos so you could get away with putting a backing on it to mount using other holes and bogging and painting the rest.

New plates have a different font

Oh, if it only has to look good in a photo, that makes me feel better.

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they are like little sandpaper disks, you use them on a die grinder its spelt roloc for your googling needs

 

keep in mind tho you can get different grits of flap disk and a fine grit one isnt going to gouge the steel in the hands of someone without penis fingers

 

i usually use a finger sander to dress just the weld area, then blend it in with a flap disc

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23 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Sorry to sneak in here but could you elaborate on these rolok discs and what tool you use them with?

Yeah so you buy a backing pad to fit either your standard grinder (has a nut on the back) OR a die grinder (has a little shaft on the back) 

Grinder one looks like this.

Screenshot_2021-04-30-17-22-49-73.thumb.jpg.646488fc29b60b3b5db7c2394233508e.jpg

Then you buy either sanding discs like this

Screenshot_2021-04-30-17-24-01-63.thumb.jpg.0dd5b6d5517f76d4a73cb3c881ea0a85.jpg

Or softer abrasive discs like this.

Screenshot_2021-04-30-17-23-48-45.thumb.jpg.e3b4b1f27ff8099aab929b0ace431a7b.jpg

The benefit is that there is no center boss to get in the way so the pad can be put flat on the surface. Very good and much better than flap discs for keeping anything flat. 

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