Jump to content

Coils - transformer type vs oil filled


rusty360

Recommended Posts

I've run both on Holden 6's and to be honest haven't found a difference between the two.

Just be remember that the coils designed to be run with points are different to those intended to be run with HEI, (If you are converting to HEI on a standard EH (?) you'll need to remove the external ballast).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, sr2 said:

I've run both on Holden 6's and to be honest haven't found a difference between the two.

Just be remember that the coils designed to be run with points are different to those intended to be run with HEI, (If you are converting to HEI on a standard EH (?) you'll need to remove the external ballast).

Sweet as cheers for the info, yep going from standard points to HEI 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, rusty360 said:

Sweet as cheers for the info, yep going from standard points to HEI 

You'l love the improvement; let me know if you need a simple carb hack that will still fit under the standard air-cleaner. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right here we go. I’m not giving you the ultimate performance package I’m just suggesting an option which will give the 'Mighty' standard (ish) Holden Red easier starting, better fuel economy, smoother running and a bit more power (especially with a set of headers).  And it will fit under a standard air cleaner to keep the natives confused!

Step 1: Find a second hand 9 port aftermarket inlet manifold designed to run a twin choke 350 Holley. They are cheap and there’s heaps out there but don’t be tempted to try the 350 Holley on a Red six. It’s a prick of a combination that eats gas and requires constant tinkering , believe me I’ve tried!. (Hunt around and you’ll find a manifold for under $100).

Step 2: Find a 28/36 DCD Weber carb, they are very common and were fitted to 1500 Cortina’s (yes!) BMW 202’s hot Escorts,…etc. Don’t be fooled by the smaller motors they came out on  A 28/36 will flow to approx. 270 CFM (a 179 at 5K uses 258 CFM), they run sweet on most motors with little or no re-jetting and the smaller primary delivers smooth low speed running and greatly improved economy. (Carb should cost about $80).

Step 3: Get the cordless drill out and re-tap to make the stud pattern fit the Weber, bolt it up, fit fuel, vacuum and acc. linkage and give it the jandal!

A few final notes: 

·         A little cutting and welding (or creative pop-riveting) and the EH air cleaner base plate can be made to fit, at a casual glance the whole lot will still look bog standard.

·         There is a 32/36 DCD Weber out there that will do a similar job, (Looks the same).

·         The Weber 34 ADM carb of an XE Falcon is another (and slightly higher flowing) option but you’ll need to run the Falcon air cleaner (that will really keep the natives confused!).

·         Even the mankiest DCD out there can usually be resurrected with a strip, clean and gasket set. Throttle spindles usually show little or no wear and they are a joy to work on. (See my build thread, there’s a few pictures there). 

 

·         If your aftermarket manifold comes with water heating, don’t be put off. Despite a cold intake charge being desirable the raise in temperature helps the atomized fuel avoid condensing on the longer uneven length  runners resulting in more uniformed fuel distribution (i.e. the advantage outweigh the disadvantage).

·         I have seen standard alloy red manifolds with a plate welded to it filed and drilled to fit a Weber – could be a cheap option if you have access to aluminium welding?

·         The only Holley I’ve had running well on a Red Six was a 4 barrel 390 – with progressive chokes like the DCD.

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 05/11/2019 at 08:01, sr2 said:

I've run both on Holden 6's and to be honest haven't found a difference between the two.

Just be remember that the coils designed to be run with points are different to those intended to be run with HEI, (If you are converting to HEI on a standard EH (?) you'll need to remove the external ballast).

Im just waiting for the new coil to arrive so are sorting out the wiring. In the ones you have done have you beefed up the feed wiring at all? I know I need 12v constant so need to bypass the resistor wire that is built into the loom. Google tells me the hei coils can pull between 6 and 30amps which seems very high.

Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/11/2019 at 22:36, rusty360 said:

Im just waiting for the new coil to arrive so are sorting out the wiring. In the ones you have done have you beefed up the feed wiring at all? I know I need 12v constant so need to bypass the resistor wire that is built into the loom. Google tells me the hei coils can pull between 6 and 30amps which seems very high.

Thoughts?

The standard wiring will be more than adequate. Remember that when running without a ballast the ignition will be receiving approx double the voltage hence a reduction in the amps you'll be drawing. (i.e. watts = volts x amps). It's another reason why HEI coils run cooler and don't necessarily need oil cooling.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 07/11/2019 at 22:53, sr2 said:

Right here we go. I’m not giving you the ultimate performance package I’m just suggesting an option which will give the 'Mighty' standard (ish) Holden Red easier starting, better fuel economy, smoother running and a bit more power (especially with a set of headers).  And it will fit under a standard air cleaner to keep the natives confused!

Step 1: Find a second hand 9 port aftermarket inlet manifold designed to run a twin choke 350 Holley. They are cheap and there’s heaps out there but don’t be tempted to try the 350 Holley on a Red six. It’s a prick of a combination that eats gas and requires constant tinkering , believe me I’ve tried!. (Hunt around and you’ll find a manifold for under $100).

Step 2: Find a 28/36 DCD Weber carb, they are very common and were fitted to 1500 Cortina’s (yes!) BMW 202’s hot Escorts,…etc. Don’t be fooled by the smaller motors they came out on  A 28/36 will flow to approx. 270 CFM (a 179 at 5K uses 258 CFM), they run sweet on most motors with little or no re-jetting and the smaller primary delivers smooth low speed running and greatly improved economy. (Carb should cost about $80).

Step 3: Get the cordless drill out and re-tap to make the stud pattern fit the Weber, bolt it up, fit fuel, vacuum and acc. linkage and give it the jandal!

A few final notes: 

·         A little cutting and welding (or creative pop-riveting) and the EH air cleaner base plate can be made to fit, at a casual glance the whole lot will still look bog standard.

·         There is a 32/36 DCD Weber out there that will do a similar job, (Looks the same).

·         The Weber 34 ADM carb of an XE Falcon is another (and slightly higher flowing) option but you’ll need to run the Falcon air cleaner (that will really keep the natives confused!).

·         Even the mankiest DCD out there can usually be resurrected with a strip, clean and gasket set. Throttle spindles usually show little or no wear and they are a joy to work on. (See my build thread, there’s a few pictures there). 

 

·         If your aftermarket manifold comes with water heating, don’t be put off. Despite a cold intake charge being desirable the raise in temperature helps the atomized fuel avoid condensing on the longer uneven length  runners resulting in more uniformed fuel distribution (i.e. the advantage outweigh the disadvantage).

·         I have seen standard alloy red manifolds with a plate welded to it filed and drilled to fit a Weber – could be a cheap option if you have access to aluminium welding?

·         The only Holley I’ve had running well on a Red Six was a 4 barrel 390 – with progressive chokes like the DCD.

Cheers for the info!

This could be the next thing to do. Dizzy all fitted up and running, still got a big hesitation and flat spot at from idle to revving. I need to check timing again to. Need to find out how the Mark's line up again. Is prob the carb as I've never had it off. I might try giving it a clean out to keep it running while finding the other bits to put the weber on it.

I see a couple of companys make a adaptor plate from the weber to the original manifold.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

What is the go with Hall Effect or Magnetic Pickup distributors? It seems you cant run the high output transistor type coils (~0.5ohm primary Bosch HEC715/716 or MEC717/718 for example) but should run the medium output type type (Bosch MEC723 ~1.1ohm primary) as you will burn out the switching module.

Reason I ask is I have put a GT40 coil on my electronic dizzy but getting intermittent spark - Have managed to get it started twice and flattenned the battery trying, Installing the old coil restores spark.

Do I need a MEC transistor type coil as replacement? I am trying to get rid of engine hunting at idle/low RPM - Tuner thinks it might be coil as I have a weak spark.

Let me know if I should put this in a new topic but seemed related to the topic.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...