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A Poor Mans Defender.... SIIA 109


nzstato

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Back in the 90's I owned a series 2 and my brother had a series 2A with a Holden 3.3. We had some fun. Mine was completely illegal but my mates and I would throw a few litres of petrol in it and drive it through Blenheim and down to the river then spend the day getting it stuck and unstuck. It never let us down.

Then I pulled the trans brake on when going down a small slope to a park spot so I could fix the service brakes. Transbrake locked up , landie kept skidding forwards and gearbox got destroyed. So I had to remove and re-build the complete box with many new bits. Was a good learning experience. I later sold it to some farmer.

Reading your thread and seeing the pictures brings back memories.

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  • 5 months later...

Does anyone know much about Nissan gearboxes? (Is there a typical section the serial # is stamped on?) This is the whole assembly, its quite interesting to note a few things.... The top cover and shifter base are a custom job, someone has machined/welded up some parts to make the whole thing work.  The adapter is different to anything else I've seen, its like a whole final drive assembly in itself.  The transfer box is probably original as the oil filling bolt/top cover is only found on the 'suffix A' versions but still sits in the factory mounts.  

Would like to know the model of the box as will get a new clutch fork boot....

LR_Box.thumb.jpg.53042c659e908562e2dc98219c35d751.jpg

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What did you use to strip the chassis? Looks pretty good now. I’m going through this exercise (although a lot more slowly) at the moment.  I’m planning on doing the absolute minimum to the bodywork, and concentrate on the chassis, brakes and running gear. 

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1 hour ago, Sunbeam said:

What did you use to strip the chassis? Looks pretty good now. I’m going through this exercise (although a lot more slowly) at the moment.  I’m planning on doing the absolute minimum to the bodywork, and concentrate on the chassis, brakes and running gear. 

Just a quick run over with a wire wheel.  Not going hard out with the paint on this, just functional and presentable.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If it were me, I’d risk a second hand transfer box, even if you need to throw seals and bearings at it. They usually last better than the main gearbox, particularly if you get one that was behind an original Land Rover engine. 

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1 hour ago, Sunbeam said:

If it were me, I’d risk a second hand transfer box, even if you need to throw seals and bearings at it. They usually last better than the main gearbox, particularly if you get one that was behind an original Land Rover engine. 

Im tending to agree

Already tracked down some spare boxes and/or parts from local Barrys.  Have a gasket set on order but will replace bearings will good quality units (Timkin/SKF)

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Just now, nzstato said:

Im tending to agree

Already tracked down some spare boxes and/or parts from local Barrys.  Have a gasket set on order but will replace bearings will good quality units (Timkin/SKF)

If you end up with a complete gearbox/t. Case and don’t want the main gearbox let me know. My transfer box is fine, but the gearbox sounded like a coffee grinder with rocks in it.

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9 hours ago, Dolan said:

I’ll probably have a series three one coming up spare in a month or so :) 

seems ok running it through all the gears with the transfer case in neutral 

Cheers, if none of these contacts come through, will definately hit you up on that.

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  • 1 month later...
Just now, tortron said:

9" grinder and a shrinking disk with some soapy water will sort those dings out

I have the gear and have been thinking that.

Also seen a method with heat, a hammer and a lead shot bag which looks quick effective on alloy...

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Just now, NickJ said:

Keen to hear more about your experiences with shrinking and general dent removal, I have some deep small dents in mine from the PO i'd love to tackle but unsure if i'll just make it worse?

 

 

IMG_8277.jpg

Those should be easy enough to get out but will stretch as they are quite deep.  Take the capping off first, if the internal bracing/edges are bent focus on pulling them out straight first before hammering the skin.

Learnt most from this guy....

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCU4f0UCOfiB32Lo4Z6NDghA

 

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Just now, nzstato said:

Those should be easy enough to get out but will stretch as they are quite deep.  Take the capping off first, if the internal bracing/edges are bent focus on pulling them out straight first before hammering the skin.

Learnt most from this guy....

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCU4f0UCOfiB32Lo4Z6NDghA

 

Thankfully everything on the inside is straight. I assume the capping is just held on by the rivets?

Good link! spent hours trying to find decent aluminium panel beating videos and only got modern car stuff, that channel looks epic, will sit down for a watch over the weekend.

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