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grimlok

Grimmy's '88 Ford Courier/B2000

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Have at me guys.

Tell me all the things I'm doing wrong. Laugh when I cock it up. And share a beer with me when I get her going!

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I think you may mean the wheel offset is too negative.  Unless you want the wheels to stick out even more? 

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Haha. Doh! Just when I thought I had gotten my head around the whole offset thing I prove my ignorance by getting it wrong.

Got a line on a rusty flat deck Mazda b2000 with a running motor and a few other donor parts fairly local. Pretty keen to get into this one. Been a while since I did any real work on a car.

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To get the Mazda grill to fit you will have to trim it to fit,from memory the Mazda headlights are smaller. I've done the same on my Ute cause I couldn't find a courier bonnet,so went Mazda bonnet and grill.

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We use Milwaukee battery ugga duggas at work and they are legit as fuck, want some for home but have a compressor at home so don't really need it, the portability is magic though. 

If you get this one, it might not fit everywhere but it can take lug nuts off of forklifts that usually have to be undone by metre and a half poles for added leverage.  It's fucking magic. 

https://nzsafetyblackwoods.co.nz/en/milwaukee-impact-wrench-skin-m18-fuel-one-key-3-4-each--04135207?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrJfrlDDizbaAlrkFvuxylLbPYwK3QFNWs0kFuccYY3YlLNVQBLOSloaAudxEALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrJfrlDDizbaAlrkFvuxylLbPYwK3QFNWs0kFuccYY3YlLNVQBLOSloaAudxEALw_wcB

 

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I'm into that idea. Got a couple of Milwaukee fuel powered things already. So it's just a skin I'd need rather than another charger and batteries.

To be fair, the air rattle gun doesn't fit everywhere, and the hose can be a pain in the ass sometimes too.

Might have to jam one on the credit card. It would pay for itself pretty quick smart.

If I go AWOL, it's because the Mrs had finally had enough of me buying tools on the credit card and buried me in the garden. Make sure no one tells her how much I really paid for car parts.

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For home gamer stuff the half inch drive one is probably OK.  It has four different torque settings but for big boy kit the 3/4“ is awesome. 

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We use Milwaukee M18 1/2" drive ratttleguns at work. And we work on trucks. They get arseholes

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Dad is a heavy diesel mechanic, has the Milwaukee M18 1/2 and 3/4 dr guns, barely uses the 3/4 but it is sometimes handy, 1/2 is capable of most things.

I have AEG gear, and for the amount I use it I have found it to be as good as Dad's Milwaukee gear (many will dispute this but talking from a fair bit of first hand experience with both). I'm sure if I was using it more often (professionally) it wouldn't hold up as well, but for home handyman/regular weekend work it has always been excellent. 

 

As for flat deck, I took the wellside off my 720 and plan to run a flatdeck (when/if it is running again). Doesn't look as cool but it is infinitely more practical in almost every situation. 

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1 hour ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Dad is a heavy diesel mechanic, has the Milwaukee M18 1/2 and 3/4 dr guns, barely uses the 3/4 but it is sometimes handy, 1/2 is capable of most things.

I have AEG gear, and for the amount I use it I have found it to be as good as Dad's Milwaukee gear (many will dispute this but talking from a fair bit of first hand experience with both). I'm sure if I was using it more often (professionally) it wouldn't hold up as well, but for home handyman/regular weekend work it has always been excellent. 

 

As for flat deck, I took the wellside off my 720 and plan to run a flatdeck (when/if it is running again). Doesn't look as cool but it is infinitely more practical in almost every situation. 

What cab type is your well side for? 

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Just now, kyteler said:

What cab type is your well side for? 

King cab. But was suuuuuuuper rusty. Didn't look too bad until I pulled out all the secret silicone that the previous owner had used to 'fix' it. And then I have left it outside for the last few years. It wasn't any good to anyone really then, and it definitely isn't now.  

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I've had a few people say keep the flat deck.  It really is a whole lot more practical in every way.

Needs a new timber bed and sides. The frame is solid as a rock. Let's say I won't part with it any time soon. and we'll chuck it on the "Long term list"

Finally said good bye to the last of my cortina stuff today.  That was a little difficult. But reality is that it was too much for me to take on not being a welder, or a panel beater.

Took advantage of Supercheap's Club Plus discount and saved almost 50% on a new trolly jack and axle stands. The Mrs has been having a fit at me working on cars using left over deck piles for the last wee while. So at the very least she will yell at me about 10% less than she used to.

Ordered the 1/2" rattle gun too. Should be here before the weekend.

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On the hunt for a 32/36 DGEV or DGV. Anyone got a spare they don’t mind parting with? There’s a couple on trade me but figured I’d check here first.

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Are you selling any parts off the donor Ute? I'm after passengers wiper arm and driver's seatbelt if you are.

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Did the head on my 4M40 Challenger. New Chinesium head + swapping old valves etc, general clean and all ready to put back on was about $1200 inc I think? Can't quite remember.

This was a local reputable engine builder, but Dad sends them a fair bit of work (diesel mechanic) so I think that may have been slightly cheaper because of that. I would say if you could get ok deals at parts places etc, you could do a new head, tidy block, water pump, belts etc for somewhere in the $1500-2000 range? Plus labour if not confident in doing it yourself obviously. 

Just my experience/2c, results may vary etc.   

EDIT: To clarify, this was take the head off ourselves and drop it in/pick it up. Also, there was no damage to the block/crank/rods/pistons/bores/bearings etc in our case, but (especially if the engine is out/on a stand) a visual inspection/measurement of all of this would be a good idea, and consequently may add to the cost of the rebuild.   

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Was quoted $850 to drop the old head off and pick up the new head a few days later everything changed over, valves seated, Old cam new seals. With gaskets to refit the head myself.

New head is in the late $400s before GST. So I didn't think that was too bad. Local reputable builder.

Can source a bottom end rebuild kid + Water Pump, plus timing gear myself for around 400 also.  Confident in doing it all myself. I've never done a 4cyl 4 stroke before but they can't be that much different to Honda B&S clones on rental go karts. And I've rebuilt a metric fuck ton of those things.

Just weighing up the options. If I'm going to do the head, Might as well do the block with bearings ring and seals, and frost plugs. etc

Waiting on my brother and law to finish with his engine stand so I can steal it and tear the motor down.

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