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Posted
44 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

Awesome project wouldn't mind myself..

 

As far as the trailer build I have a similar designed trailer for my Honda which has been great except it continued to crack the risers for the top rail on the sides from the points from the axle forward to the front.. the issue is these are limiting the bending moment and there is no triangulation.. I ended up shortening the cross bar along the front so the sides dip down to almost triangulate the sides similar to how your back section is and then I added a diagonal in just the first section.

 

Sorry if my explanation is garbage, but it might save you a repair job after its galv or painted.

I think I know what you mean. I was considering adding in triangulation like this or similar,

wy0ePVQ.jpg

Most of the weight in the SXS is probably just in front of the rear tyres.

 

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Posted

Yep, pretty much, I rewelded mine a couple of times but it continued cracking the steel, has been algood since adding the diagonals. the load on yours won't be front heavy like mine though.

  • Like 1
Posted

Recently finished this trailer designed for side by side, small tractor, Two quads etc.

Engineer mate suggested doing the bulk of the welding from side to side with minimal welds running front to back, which allows the trailer to flex just a lil bit.

Seems to be working so far.

20231219_171316.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Looks nice, there is a lot less bending moment with a tandem axle, as the point loading between spring hangers for weight distribution is far more spread.

Posted
3 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Looks nice, there is a lot less bending moment with a tandem axle, as the point loading between spring hangers for weight distribution is far more spread.

Yea I went a bit overboard. Probably could have got away with one axle and no brakes. Also took the drawbar steel right back to the centre pivot of the tandem springs. Tows real nice.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

SOOooOOoOOOoo I took a week off to finish the trailer, and didn't even touch it, started on the kids mini land cruiser instead, lols. I did take the SXS to nats, which has been its only outing for fucking ages (too many jobs at home to be done). Photographic proof of it being used (thanks to @Thousand Dollar Supercar)

offroader1.JPG

offroader2.JPG

It was good to have a hoon on a flat surface (big thanks to @Thphantum) to try and get used to the handling, 4WD is still a bit strange to me. Didn't roll it, which was excellent. 

And seeing as I've hardly used it, I decided to waste more money on it, by buying a second hand set of the correct OEM bead lock 14" rims complete with more aggressive mud spec tyres, as my local track is often muddy as a son of a gun. The other reason for buying these, is so in the future I can go to a bigger tyre to gain a bit of ground clearance. It currently has 27's, the new tyres are 26's, but there's waaaaaaaaaay more options for bigger tyres in a 14". I've found out, nearer the end of the day, I start to have ground clearance issues, as the modern SXS's all run way bigger tyres (I think most come with 33's standard, and some go up to 35's) and they dig huge trenches in the tracks, so going up a few sizes should help with that issue. Can't go too big though, cos I don't have the power/gearing for dat.

And a pic of what my SXS is actually meant to look like, with the rims I've just purchased (wish I still had all the black plastics rather than the fucking rainbow it is now sadface.com)

 YXZ1000RSE_1.jpg

 Lame update sorry, don't have much to do at work, lolololols.

Regards, VG.

 

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So I have literally spent HOURS just cutting un-needed stuff off this thing, my cutting/grinding consumables consumption has to be highest of any project I've ever done, lols. I have ditched the seat as my child bearing hips don't fit in it, and I'll use one of the spare SXS seats I have. I have removed all the seat mounts and one of the chassis bars in the floor to get the seat as low as possible, as I need all the room I can get. I have also removed the complete steering column and associated mounts, as the steering was super heavy and grossly done. I also cut out both foot pedals as they were just retardedly done, and I also removed the little dish that you feet had to jam into, along with all the mounts and what not. I removed the shifter also, as not needed. On the back end, I removed everything vertical, as I don't need any of it, I will just remount the shocks at the base of the roll bar rather than half way up.

Shit cut off the main frame,

6KekZtd.jpeg

Shit cut off the back end, and the blank canvas ready for the motor,

OlBXLWE.jpeg

m7paIkK.jpeg

Seat mock up,

brsdbFw.jpeg

Flipped it over to cut more shit off, before and after,

zWFIotB.jpeg

QUwKW6k.jpeg

Ga3YaC7.jpeg

SO MUCH GRINDING. I'm going to weigh all the shit I cut off just because I wanna know.

I have also ordered a few trinkets from uncle Ali, the main part being the CVT/torque converter thing, annoyingly my motor actually has a 25mm output shaft, and all of the China CVTs are 1" (25.4mm in the new money) so I might have to make up a little spacer possibly. The unit I purchased said it was 19mm in the pics, but 1" in the description so might not even fit at all (I got it cos it was the cheapest one I could find, and was free freight, saved a good $200) but there seems to be an insert to adjust the size of the driver end shaft, so I'll machine that out to suit if needed (Top right thing in this pic)

  S923b34154c4945f8b4080534adf5a45f4.jpg_2

I also ordered a cute little steering rack which hopefully will lighten the steering up a bit, with a hint of reduction, but not tooooo much because of the hand controls I can't have it 3 turns lock to lock.

Gawd this thing is awful, what was I thinking.

Regards, VG. 

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1
Posted

Use a cut up coke can as a hori shim wrapped around the motor shaft to take up the .4mm

It will go well with the rest of the horiness

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So the CVT showed up, and unfortunately the picture was correct and the description wrong, its made for a 19mm shaft (my motors 25mm) but I knew that was probably going to be the case. Also, my back up plan of machining one bit out to convert it to suit a 25mm shaft wont work, because I didn't know there's another part that needs to fit the 19mm shaft, and cant easily be converted to 25mm. Even though I really want to use my 13hp motor, I had a look around for something else with a 19mm shaft, but it seems the biggest motor you can get with a 19mm shaft is only 7.5hp, which might be a bit dull in a fairly hefty kart. Also a bit odd as the CVT is rated from 8-18hp, but won't fit anything over 7.5hp. The other option is to buy another CVT to suit the 25mm motor, but they around $450/$500 landed for the cheapest ones and I don't really want to spend that much. After having a think about it all, I thought the easiest and cheapest way to fix everything might be to just whip the crank out of the motor and machine it down to 19mm to suit the CVT, but just as I'm typing this out I've realized there's another slightly goofier option that might fix another little problem as well. The output shaft on the motor is also too short, and lengthening it would be a mission (they don't seem to make a motor with a long enough shaft, part of the CVT just hangs unsupported in the middle) sooooooooo what if I just run a little jack shaft through the CVT input with a chain drive back to the motor, this would fix the shaft size issue and also sort out the length issue, and also fixes another issue I was having, where the CVT wont fit on the motor facing backwards like I want (and like it needs to due to some ribs on the casting getting in the way of the output chain when its facing forward/up side down) This solution just adds a bit of weight and complication, but fixes many problems. Hmmmmmmmmmm. Any way, pics to support the above ramblings.

This is the bit I was going to machine out to 25mm, but it only leaves a 2.5mm wall thickness, and then the drive on the other end wont work,

PtBH6YN.jpeg

YeFYl6E.jpeg

wb0s7aT.jpeg

This is the other bit I didn't know needed to be 25mm ID, much harder to change without it being a wonky mess. Hard to tell in pic, but that's the end of a shaft that's about 50mm long.

eKNADe6.jpeg

This shows how far out the driver end has to hang, the bolts about where it would be done up, and shows how much would be unsupported in the middle, the little black bit centers the end.

hcJiizm.jpeg

yHA4H3F.jpeg

So yes, I will have to investigate the jack shaft idea, might end up being the best and easiest solution.

Also, my adorable little steering rack showed up, soooo cute.

rNXyULM.jpeg

Regards, VG.

 

  • Like 3
Posted
27 minutes ago, tortron said:

you dont even need to remove the crank

 

 

 

 

My lathes not wired up yet, but that wont be a problem if I just bolt the petrol motor down real good to the bed and then run it to machine the shaft. Hmmmmmmm not a bad idea TBH.

Posted
22 hours ago, Vintage Grumble said:

So the CVT showed up, and unfortunately the picture was correct and the description wrong, its made for a 19mm shaft (my motors 25mm) but I knew that was probably going to be the case. Also, my back up plan of machining one bit out to convert it to suit a 25mm shaft wont work, because I didn't know there's another part that needs to fit the 19mm shaft, and cant easily be converted to 25mm. Even though I really want to use my 13hp motor, I had a look around for something else with a 19mm shaft, but it seems the biggest motor you can get with a 19mm shaft is only 7.5hp, which might be a bit dull in a fairly hefty kart. Also a bit odd as the CVT is rated from 8-18hp, but won't fit anything over 7.5hp. The other option is to buy another CVT to suit the 25mm motor, but they around $450/$500 landed for the cheapest ones and I don't really want to spend that much. After having a think about it all, I thought the easiest and cheapest way to fix everything might be to just whip the crank out of the motor and machine it down to 19mm to suit the CVT, but just as I'm typing this out I've realized there's another slightly goofier option that might fix another little problem as well. The output shaft on the motor is also too short, and lengthening it would be a mission (they don't seem to make a motor with a long enough shaft, part of the CVT just hangs unsupported in the middle) sooooooooo what if I just run a little jack shaft through the CVT input with a chain drive back to the motor, this would fix the shaft size issue and also sort out the length issue, and also fixes another issue I was having, where the CVT wont fit on the motor facing backwards like I want (and like it needs to due to some ribs on the casting getting in the way of the output chain when its facing forward/up side down) This solution just adds a bit of weight and complication, but fixes many problems. Hmmmmmmmmmm. Any way, pics to support the above ramblings.

This is the bit I was going to machine out to 25mm, but it only leaves a 2.5mm wall thickness, and then the drive on the other end wont work,

PtBH6YN.jpeg

YeFYl6E.jpeg

wb0s7aT.jpeg

This is the other bit I didn't know needed to be 25mm ID, much harder to change without it being a wonky mess. Hard to tell in pic, but that's the end of a shaft that's about 50mm long.

eKNADe6.jpeg

This shows how far out the driver end has to hang, the bolts about where it would be done up, and shows how much would be unsupported in the middle, the little black bit centers the end.

hcJiizm.jpeg

yHA4H3F.jpeg

So yes, I will have to investigate the jack shaft idea, might end up being the best and easiest 

rNXyULM.jpeg

 

 

You has gay hands.

  • Haha 1

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