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Semi on topic question, does anyone know if Bosch plug lead part numbers refer to the length?

Like B106SI and B40SI?

Trying to see if I can get essential parts to make up a set.

Then again, maybe the lock down will allow some shops to open next week and I can get a set cheaper.

 

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2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

2 litre mivec from an fto will be around the 200hp mark and sound decent.. 

People probably giving these things away, a mate has one in a mirage for his wife (and him occasionally) to race. 

Hadn’t thought of FTO’s, does look quite compact. Doubt there would be an existing adapter though. 

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I looked for ages for a KL.  Easiest and cheapest to buy a whole car in manual so you have the flywheel and starter  -

ended up buying a Mazda cronos for $600 with the kfze - reg wof and service history - Mazda lantis has same motor - 160-70 hp stock same as the 2.5 klde 

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^1000% agree with this. 

hell, spend the money on minor parts, get that engine running and ditch the idea of an engine swap. something else to consider is, alot of the rest of the car may not be up to cert spec for the present day, so could open a big can of worms. 

get that motor running, but a sweet exhuast and intake on it. fix the rest and enjoy it. 

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I think I'll order some leads and plugs and see if that is enough to get it running.

It's likely I will need to certify it anyway as I haven't got any proof of registration, except the plates but there are no records of them. I'll give the original builder/rights owner another call, it is unlikely though.

So the fact I would need to certify it, means it makes some sense to put a better engine in it. 

The guy who originally owned the black rotary one is also an LVVTA cert guy and said it is possible to certify it. One was done recently done but didn't go into detail except that the fact it has no normal 'doors' means some rules don't apply (can't remember which...). The other thing he said was the current camber rules would make it a bit of a pain since it has swing axles. 

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13 hours ago, Transom said:

I looked for ages for a KL.  Easiest and cheapest to buy a whole car in manual so you have the flywheel and starter  -

ended up buying a Mazda cronos for $600 with the kfze - reg wof and service history - Mazda lantis has same motor - 160-70 hp stock same as the 2.5 klde 

There are two whole mx6's in Invercargill for $1200. One manual 2L and one auto 2.5L, would be worth it if it didn't need two ferry trips.

 

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13 hours ago, kws said:

If it were me, unless you knew the current engine was a write off, I would persist on getting it running as low cost as possible (borrow a coil, get some cheap leads, clean the plugs etc) and then assess where you are at. If the engine is OK, it would allow you to focus on other things that are needed to get the car driving again, instead of messing with an engine swap that would more than likely stall the project dead in the water.

That's pretty much my current thinking, it went from being seized to turning over and wanting to fire which I really wasn't expecting. I'll buy some leads and plugs (one broke anyway), the coil is providing a spark so will see if I can get away with not buy one yet.

If I can get it driving that would be amazing and tell me what I should do next. A drive around the block would be pretty cool.

I haven't given up on a car project yet, they just sometimes take fcking forever lol.

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I do agree that getting it going is key for momentum. But what are the chances that motor is a turd anyway? 80% chance? I guess get it going and test oil pressure and compression and see whats up. No one ever regretted going K-series honda though :)

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Just now, Spencer said:

I do agree that getting it going is key for momentum. But what are the chances that motor is a turd anyway? 80% chance? I guess get it going and test oil pressure and compression and see whats up. No one ever regretted going K-series honda though :)

I think the chances of it being okay look decent so far, I was expecting it to be seized solid and a manky used Escort engine put in 40 years ago. All signs point to it being either low km's or rebuilt. They went through the trouble of fitting an aftermarket intake manifold, DCOE, extractors and decent bits for the time like the weird flow sensor bulb thing and the VDO gauges, so I'm hoping this means the engine was a good one.

So far so good:

- It probably only had 5 years of use since 'new'

- Piston tops show no signs of rust.

- The cold compression is decent.

- Turns over with starter motor well now.

- Inside the carb and under rocker cover is very clean.

- The mechanical fuel pump appears to be working,

- The starter motor works

- Distributor and coil works.

 

 Bad:

- Plug leads perished

- Spark plugs questionable

- Ignition switch seized.

- its a 60's ford engine.

 

So the bad's are easy fixes.

 

Could still have damaged rings or bores though.

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Just now, BlownCorona said:

didnt realise it was going to need cert anyway, in that case yeah id be looking at making the most of the cert tag

Only way I can do it without a cert is if I can prove it was registered with the plates that are on it and that it was originally this spec (I can kind of prove the spec via Lynch Built). There are no NZTA records and no previous owner records. I am in contact with the guy who commissioned them to be built in 1978 but he hasn't been able to find anything yet and its been well over 6 months now.

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How much are they in NZ? we have millions of CL9's here. They often pop up on the euro FB page for $4-500, probably $800-1000 from a wreckers. CL9 is a cheap P-plater car here now so lots of them getting stacked. A early base spec whole car with highish km can be had for 2-3k. Probably hold more value in NZ as seen as brand new still compared to the fleet.

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K series would be cool, but it might change your direction a bit, via snowball effect

Ie I'd be surprised if a vw transaxle would survive long behind an engine that revs 2x as much and has 5x as much power

Dunno what brakes it has but I assume vw? Probably not good enough for power increase

Same with suspension,  might be ok for 80hp kent, but the potential the k series has, may mean the car is not enjoyable if it tries to kill you at every corner 

 

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Keep plugging away with what you have - get it to run if you can and do some laps around the block 

if it’s supppsed to have a kl v6 in it one will appear just around the corner from you and it will be too easy - alloy block v6 is prob lighter than what’s in it 

has to be worth giving a crack at getting it regoed as standard built way back when first 

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