Popular Post tortron Posted April 21, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted April 21, 2019 I've done and did it again. Sight unseen, I didn't expect no one else to bid. You know the story..... Its a 62, fully retrimmed interior, and a half decent paint job. Big pile of receipts, it's had a lot of money spent on it. Unfortunately it's got dead Rego, fell off the system 10 or so years ago and has been passed around a few owners since then, mainly sitting in their sheds till they give up. Not with me though! Main issue is that the chassis rails are shot. Usual Morris minor rust. Someone has attempted to make new ones in short sections and made an effort to weld. I wouldn't pass it, so neither will the inspector. So I have just spent roughly the purchase price in new quality UK panels. Rhs needs the full length done as they have tried to do the whole thing (£££ in postage )LHS there's enough of the original left in good order that I can get away with a half panel. Some wobblyness and rust in the RHS engine bay tie plate, so got another of those as they are cheap enough. Possibly it's had a prang on that side at some point too. Have a stack of paperwork stating various rust repairs done about 20 years ago in Nelson, so il have to check those out too. Plus a couple of half pie attempts at small patches from the last owner as well. Nothing major, she's not a mitsi. Other main issue is there's no engine, box, or driveshaft. I have a 1100 with the head off and a smooth case box (possibly the one in the paperwork that's had about 2k spent on an extensive rebuild only a couple thousand km ago) and a 1275 marina engine and ribbed box, which I'm told runs. Car however should have a 950. I'm leaning towards another 950 and see how bad the gearbox I have is. If I needed to cert it id want to modify a bunch of stuff to make it worth it. Have a supercharger here, or maybe just out the body on a Suzuki 4x4. Maybe next one. Otherwise just the usual Morris problems. Brakes are all in bits, tyres although very low km are now dry rotted. For some reason there's indicators on the front but has never been any on the rear. Looks like the suspension bushes are missing (it's also on lowering blocks and sitting on its bump stops). Hoping for an over winter refresh..... 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted April 21, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 21, 2019 Tentative list of work Replace RH chassis leg Replace LH chassis leg front half Replace RH tie plate Rust RH Sill Rust battery tray Poor patching boot floor rust Crack in engine mount tower New hard brake lines front Replace suspension bushes Fit brake light Install rear indicators Buy driveshaft Assemble front brakes Engine and gearbox Install heater and under bonnet stuff accessories 22 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted May 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 4, 2019 The more I look at this, the less faith I have in the last owner. His chassis repair is just awful. Crusty welds aside, he's double welded over the rusty sections where the suspension mounts to. The idea was obviously to keep these key points in the right spots. However he's not braced anything and the two lower suspension pins are totally on the piss. There has been a front end prang and the engine bay tie plates and rhs inner wing are kinda rippled. Can only assume that the bumper mounts are not in line either. Why is this a concern? Because I'm building a factory style chassis repair jig. It mounts to - the chassis suspension mount tubes, the engine mount bolt holes, and the bumper mounts. That's ok though? Don't you still have the shock mountings to base it off? No. He's also cut the LHS section out and not only welded it back in a few mm further back than it should be, it's also cocked on an angle. At a guess the bolts got stuck or something so it got cut out to free them up? Anyway this all equates to a front end that's totally on the piss and probably not worth my time to fix. So I went ahead and bought everything I need to fix it... 8 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted May 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 4, 2019 Replacement chassis legs and engine bay tie plate A roller hoop rotisserie And a bunch of steel plate and tube for various chassis jigs. I'll make something like this from the BLMC minor chassis repair manual. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted May 5, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 5, 2019 So I made a start on some plates for this jig. Bumper mounts are actually as straight and as centered as factory. Despite the threaded sections being cut off and replaced with welded on bolts. Then I made the engine mount tie plate. All good so far. I think I will need a laser level to extend the centre points of these to confirm the centre of the car, the toe plate cross member (where the suspension mounts), and the centre of the bar to go in-between the lower suspension mounts. The good news is that everything that hasn't been barried is good and straight. The bad news is, most of its been barried. Good news - I can make the jig in my shed and if I'm within a 1/8th of an inch I'm well within factory tolerances. For example. By spacing the lower suspension mounts out by 3mm you get 1 degree negative camber. So with rubber bushings 1mm is neither here nor there. Bad news I don't think it's worth my time aligning the wonky suspension mount. The other side has also had 2 access holes crookedly drilled in to it (despite there being a fresh air access hole on the back side of both....) Good news - there's only about 50 spot welds holding the whole cross member onto the car and because time is money buying a replacement panel is relatively painless. I will need to wait till the new one arrives to confirm some measurements. The battery box and support can be remade while I'm at that as well. The only other area of concern is the repairs around the rear front spring hangers. Its not exactly pretty, but nothing is out of alignment. Will get the hard word from the inspector, these panels are cheap enough just to replace the whole rear floor anyways... Anyway here's the relevant section of the Morris mono construction manual. Everybody else with a copy seems to think it's not to be shared 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted July 9, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 9, 2020 Now Kith 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 bought a driveshaft in march from a bloke then went into lockdown got a hold of him again on the 12th of august..... but finally got it. Got all the bits to put this back together. Probably wont tho 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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