Nominal Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 Looks like there's a centre support on the end of the axle to hold it stable. Someone buy me this for xmas please https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2426121633 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 3 hours ago, Nominal said: Looks like there's a centre support on the end of the axle to hold it stable. Someone buy me this for xmas please https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2426121633 He means supporting the axle when the center is removed to check side gear fitment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Replacing the axle bearings in the EH have removed the old bearings and retainer rings, pressed the new bearings on. Best to just press the retainer rings on or heat them up and srink them on? Theres a rubber lip seal in the bearing so cant put to much heat in that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 I usually sit a bit of pipe over the axle, and beat fuck out of it with a sledgehammer to drive lock rings on. I got caught out recently when using heavy wall pipe. And the ID of the pipe was less than the diameter of the axle. The pipe bottomed, and I couldnt get the bearing home. Figured it out eventually, and used a drift to space the pipe up.enough to drive it all the way home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 A bit of lube on the axle doesnt hurt too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted December 15, 2019 Author Share Posted December 15, 2019 I use the retaining ring to press the bearing on. Doing it like this means all the force of the ring is concentrated on the part of the bearing you want to be pushing on. The bearing and the ring seat together. There is not hammer or torch in sight when fitting bearings and the operation seems smooth as fuck. A decent press and appropriate jig helps though. Read the fine print in the blurb TIMKEN enclose with each of their bearing sets .... don't use heat it says the last time I read it. Re using heat - I'm guessing the same school that taught you to use heat on the shrink ring also taught you to use heat on the end of an axle before you went at it with a piece of HSS. Its all oldschool thinking I reckon. You can tell when a ring has been put on using heat ... on a Hilux axle the rubber seal is all blistered/fucked looking and the BW's and 9 Inches sometimes have a blue hue going on. All that said though, I have never heard of any axle mishap occurring due specifically to what method was used to fit the retainer ring, but fuck hammering bearings. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 Yeah hammering bad. Mild controlled heat maybe ok but rubber/plastic seals kinda limits that to maybe 80c . If no seals you can go a little bit hotter but you don't want to start smoking the grease/oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 You can buy job specific bearing heaters. I dont beat the bearing on. Even C3 bearings run a fraction of the interference that a lock ring does. Couple of taps is usually enough to seat the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 Righto so no bashy bashy or heat needed. Thou I did learn a very good lesson dont over press the lock rings with a 63t press and two straight bits of steel supporting the bearing. I just thought I'll give it a wee bit more. Must have stretched the rings out shape the farking things fell off! So today armed with new lock rings I used the baby 10t bottle jack press and some better support plates, all went ace. Now to put it all back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 @johnny.race at do you think of this mod... https://www.trademe.co.nz/2657542489 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 8 hours ago, yetchh said: @johnny.race at do you think of this mod... https://www.trademe.co.nz/2657542489 Mate, I have (decent) hands on experience in narrowing housings and axles. Re heads ... yeah I suppose so but more from a rebuild of whatever Ford or Hilux head is in front of me. And then, its either a spool or an OEM offering of some sort. This said, upon looking at where that link lead to, the things that popped into my head were - its not out of the ordinary to see axle length (spline) sticking right through side gear and into the center in a open differential head so some trimming might be required and the price. Its priced to take a chunk out of the lower end of current offerings on the aftermarket. I wonder if it requires its own sidegears that have been surfaced or something. Anyway, chur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 13 hours ago, johnny.race said: Mate, I have (decent) hands on experience in narrowing housings and axles. Re heads ... yeah I suppose so but more from a rebuild of whatever Ford or Hilux head is in front of me. And then, its either a spool or an OEM offering of some sort. This said, upon looking at where that link lead to, the things that popped into my head were - its not out of the ordinary to see axle length (spline) sticking right through side gear and into the center in a open differential head so some trimming might be required and the price. Its priced to take a chunk out of the lower end of current offerings on the aftermarket. I wonder if it requires its own sidegears that have been surfaced or something. Anyway, chur.  More for the fact that to me it looks like snake oil.. Its just metal on metal, no clutch packs no nothing, just a adding a spring loaded sandwich in between two spider gears trying to stop them spinning independently.. Unless I'm missing something..  1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Haha, I noticed that too. No mention of a fabric in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 I've been doing a few heads and reckon the best bang for dollar in terms of kit purchase are these from onlineautoparts. Don't go through TM - deal with them direct and save. Check out the matching trans pan drip trays - churr!  2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 I ran a (home.made) one of these in my 1200. A rocket scientist (I mean an actual real deal rocket scientist) at datsun 1200.com made one for his rally car. I quizzed him out about the finer points of how they work, and then had a few made. (Thanks Dad) It was a lot better than an open diff. But not as good as a proper lsd. They work like this, There is very little clearance between the channel where the pin which the idler pinions run on and the pin. The slot where is sits it more elliptical than semicircular. The springs which force the two halves apart mean than when you load the diff up, the plates try to rotate. This makes them shear against the pin. And they try to climb away from the pin. (Because of the shape of the slot) but since theres only one thou clearance it cant move far. So that rotational/shearing action jambs the plate against the side gear and prevents in from turning which locks the centre up. They also used to be known as a "phantom grip" diff. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 $700 seems spendy for them. they used to be $2-300, and aimed at guys who would weld centre to gain traction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 10 hours ago, yetchh said:  More for the fact that to me it looks like snake oil.. Its just metal on metal, no clutch packs no nothing, just a adding a spring loaded sandwich in between two spider gears trying to stop them spinning independently.. Unless I'm missing something..  Yeah the surface area of the friction that it relies on to jam the side gears is fuck all compared to even oem lsd units Looks like a less effective version of a lock right unit that costs similar. Although I guess there are applications where one of these might be too aggressive https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-1610-lr 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 11 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said: I ran a (home.made) one of these in my 1200. A rocket scientist (I mean an actual real deal rocket scientist) at datsun 1200.com made one for his rally car. I quizzed him out about the finer points of how they work, and then had a few made. (Thanks Dad) It was a lot better than an open diff. But not as good as a proper lsd. They work like this, There is very little clearance between the channel where the pin which the idler pinions run on and the pin. The slot where is sits it more elliptical than semicircular. The springs which force the two halves apart mean than when you load the diff up, the plates try to rotate. This makes them shear against the pin. And they try to climb away from the pin. (Because of the shape of the slot) but since theres only one thou clearance it cant move far. So that rotational/shearing action jambs the plate against the side gear and prevents in from turning which locks the centre up. They also used to be known as a "phantom grip" diff.  That makes sense, just wedges itself in there.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 It's more about mechanical force than friction I guess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Mechanical force causes friction. But yeah, those setups have less than 1/4 the friction area of even the basic OEM LSDs, as cletus says. Probably fine on gravel, but won't really provide that much help in many situations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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