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KerryTGIs 1988 Hilux


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@tortron what do you reckon about the ridges in the floor - I'm trying to copy them but my skills end at making the round shape where they finish. Do I need to stress too much about these or could I delete a few here and there? Or simply make a little sharp edge at the end of them?

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grab some round bar and grind it to shape (you might need to weld on some reenforcement on the opposite side) then cut a slightly over sized slot in some thick ply

then just hammer it down

(if you try this with plain round bar/pipe with a 90 degree cut end you will tear the panel steel)

if you can manage the ridge its self you can fine tune the end part with a hammer and punch (make the punch from above round bar, just give it a ball end)

 

if you sandwich the panel steel between two sheets of ply so its stuck in place, with two slots cut in it, then hammer and punch it to suit, you will get a crisper finish (helps the steel stretch in the right places so you dont get wrinkles)

 

 

You want the ridges in it to keep the floor from drumming and flexing, but you could get away with a different size or number of them if you wanted to just put some bends in with a kick press or something

 

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It seals the seams :thumbleft:

 

On old cars it's literally used just for that, keeps the water from getting between panels, cheap cars have less/none. It's not used to glue stuff together like urethane in modern cars, but I have seen it used apparently to hold panels in place while they get spot welded.

 

 

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Yea I see how it works now after digging into the corner of the floor. Some of the panels are spot welded then sealed along the edge. I might try to avoid that sandwich layer as it seems to be where the moisture gets in.

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Different part of your truck, but have you had a poke around in/on that cross member that sits against he front of the gas tank? Specifically around the part that is obstructed by the gas tank. You need to pull it out the tank to see it properly. This area is a common area that collects debris/dirt (inside the cross member) that does not drain out due to the OEM drain holes being inadequatly sized. The position of the tank and tray makes it difficult to dry out and to observe damage occuring. Its common to find structural degradation here.

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6 hours ago, johnny.race said:

Different part of your truck, but have you had a poke around in/on that cross member that sits against he front of the gas tank? Specifically around the part that is obstructed by the gas tank. You need to pull it out the tank to see it properly. This area is a common area that collects debris/dirt (inside the cross member) that does not drain out due to the OEM drain holes being inadequatly sized. The position of the tank and tray makes it difficult to dry out and to observe damage occuring. Its common to find structural degradation here.

Thanks for the heads up. Just had a look in there and sure enough it's very full of dirt on both sides. What's the best way to go about cleaning and checking right in there?

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56 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Thanks for the heads up. Just had a look in there and sure enough it's very full of dirt on both sides. What's the best way to go about cleaning and checking right in there?

I know a little bit about these things. 80's - 90's Hilux are a great truck. Here's something else to consider also. What is this thing? A 56 or 57? I need to read everything again. If you want some semblance of comfort you'll be wanting power steering? If you do and its a 56 or 57, chances are very good that you'll be out of luck. They didn't come out with PS over here I reckon. Urban myth has it that the popular LN85's unit will fit. It don't. It looks like it does but it won't. Leaves you with a couple of options ... both sorta dodgy. Too much to write. PM me ur batphone number if you want the down and dirty of it all. 

The way I've always cleaned inside that cross member is with a coat hanger, a waterblaster and a compressed air gun.

Goodluck. 

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i dunno what that crossmember looks like, but on my ute i got some wire/rod and put a loop/hole in the end of it. then i doubled up some bicycle brake cable and left it a few inches long

 

then inserted it in the cavity, attached the free end to my drill, and let rip back and forth for a few minutes. blow it out with air gun, then repeat a few times

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@tortron something I'm concerned about is that in this corner and over the cab mount, around the opening has a "pressed" edge, do you think it is entirely necessary to recreate this edge or could I get away with just a flat surface right to the opening, if that makes sense

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5 minutes ago, tortron said:

another way to do it is to cut your exterior circle out of the panel. Then cut a circle out slighltly bigger (by the amount it steps down) then make a joggler tool - just get a bit of 8-10mm rod and cut a slit in the end of it to the depth of the step.

This I can understand and do with the few tools I have. Cheers mate!

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4 minutes ago, tortron said:

you can probably hammer it in by eye with the help of a sack full of sand to act as a dolly tbh, but see how it goes

I haven't tried with sand yet, does it stop the steel jumping around so much or is that just a coordination thing? I think my skills at this stage lend towards the other method, albeit the long way round. I only have two sections to do like that.

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skiaflex 221 or 227

but any polyurethane seam sealer will do the jerb

 

i prefer the stuff in a tube (plus i have a sausage gun for the sausages lol) but you can get brush on stuff to replicate factory jobs.  The only real thinkg to look out for is that it can be painted over

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