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KerryTGIs 1988 Hilux


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I took a section out of the pillar to see whats up there and solved my mystery of how the gutter is fitted. Its spot welded inside there. So on a positive note most of the serious looking rust was just on the remaining piece of the gutter, but shining a light up there shows that the inside of everything has a very light surface rust. The seal must've broken in parts and let oxygen in there. 

I guess my next move is to get a wire brush that can fit up in there and then brunox as far as I can get it.

I guess what I need to know from you guys is that once that rust is actually inside the body is that the time to call it a day, or once the pillars are welded shut will it pretty much go inert?

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Once you are done with rust repairs. Squirt it all with your brunox/anti corrosion paint of choice.

Then go ahead and spray a bunch of chassis wax in there. Very little moisture will get up in there, it's not like the sills where water drains out of. So paint and wax is overkill

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My car had nothing inside the body when it was new.  A light coat of surface rust, even after all 60 years was all it had and most of that still had shiny metal visible.
To treat it? Fish oil.  I still have half a can of it.  Spray it inside with one of those air powered car sprayer things, i have a spare one of those too.

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On 22/03/2019 at 21:52, Kerry-TGI said:

... Its just the rust inside there that scares me ...

Fucking 80's - 90's Luxer's aye? Gawd, I love them. We've had heaps of them over years (really, a family full of boys - go figure) And indeed while everyone else has moved on, my daily remains being a 93' Lux. Wouldn't swap. The Mrs won't drive it because she reckons its shit loose and smells ... lol! Here's an observation and a truism from me gained from decades of shed ownership and owning Luxers. 80's - 90's Hiluxs all go in the A pillars. They go in other places to but that's a crap shoot. But in the A pillars for sure.

A good repair should last under any circumstance but even a less than great repair can be made to last wayyy into the future if its kept dry. Ie. parked in a shed. No ifs, no buts and no 'only sometimes' It needs to be all the time. It is my observation that shed parking slows down/stops body work degradation by shit loads. Just saying.

 

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On 24/03/2019 at 11:51, tortron said:

One of the worst things you can do is drive in the rain, then park up in a closed garage.

Hooning it hard and putting it away wet

What's the best methodology?

Try not to drive in the rain if you can help it?

All I have is an open shed which is more than I've ever had. 

And what do you guys think of this product? I like that you can get a wand for it to get right up in there

https://www.hardypackaging.co.nz/products/3m-cavity-wax-plus-08852?variant=39072953933

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Yeah just needs to be able to dry out.

Ventilation/parked outside

I have some big silica gel bags from the local gun shop. Ment for going in gun cabinets, about 300g each I think. I just Chuck one under the seats in my Morrie and recharge them in the oven every now and then

 

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15 hours ago, tortron said:

Yeah just needs to be able to dry out.

Ventilation/parked outside

I have some big silica gel bags from the local gun shop. Ment for going in gun cabinets, about 300g each I think. I just Chuck one under the seats in my Morrie and recharge them in the oven every now and then

 

Cool. Sorry for pestering ya man I'm just filling up on the knowledge.

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I've started patching the floor but it seems I need a lot less voltage and the smootharc 180 bottoms out at 15.6

Does anyone know how to get it lower or can offer any tips on how to avoid blowing through

 

20210102_130932.jpg

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Thanks I cut my patch again so it was less gappy and tried that, it went better but I still blew a few holes in it. I think I went a bit hard and fast too because it kinda curved in on one side when it was perfectly flat after I tacked it. Think I'll cut it out and have another crack. 

Surely there's a way to turn the voltage right down I just gotta do some research.

Also is a regulator supposed to hiss a little, I've cranked up all the fittings but it seems like I'm leaking some

20210102_141931.jpg

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14 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Thanks I'll give that a go. Why is that? Is the paint heating up and affecting the cleanliness of the weld?

pretty much, it will be getting into the gas you are using to try keep the weld clean as it sizzles

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You can also hold a block of dissimilar metal behind the weld where possible as a heat sink, copper is best but hard to find or a scrap bit of aluminum works to. You can clamp it with vise grips and it will both give you a surface to weld to so the weld doesn't blow through and take some of the heat away if you can't turn your welder low enough. Other than that work in short burst and let it cool a bit between. Good luck and keep at it.

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