Kerry-TGI

KerryTGIs 1988 Hilux

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If you are looking to buy a welder for panel work, as with any tool, buy the best one you can afford. 

I am only learning to weld at the moment, I started trying probably a couple of years ago and I had a cheap Bunnings welder, and could not get it to do even half decent welds. Someone better than me almost definitely could have made it do good welds, but as a learner I just couldn't get it to do what I wanted. It was enough to make me stop trying for a while honestly.  
Now that I have a good machine, it makes learning 1,000,000x easier. It is easy to adjust settings etc with amperage, wire feed speed, gas coverage etc, they are all continuously variable and you can make fine adjustments, not just 1-5 or whatever it was on my cheap one.

Mine was fairly spendy for a home use machine at $1500 but is multi process (stick, H/F tig and MIG/MAG) but even the difference between a $200 welder and a $4-500 welder is huge. 

 

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1 hour ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Mine was fairly spendy for a home use machine at $1500 but is multi process (stick, H/F tig and MIG/MAG) but even the difference between a $200 welder and a $4-500 welder is huge. 

 

What welder is it, I've been looking at multi-process machines lately too.

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On 07/02/2019 at 10:56, Raizer said:

What welder is it, I've been looking at multi-process machines lately too.

I am mind blanking at the moment, I will come back and edit this when I remember/look it up, not at home right now. 

EDIT: @Raizer this is it here.

https://www.chevpac.co.nz/catalogue/page/mig-welders_WOR_S236_C457/mig-welder-200a-mig-mag-1ph-multi-mig-wd-mig200m_WMG100120?p=1

Was sceptical at first as it was not 'name brand', but have used it plenty now and has been a good machine. Only used MIG so far as I haven't gotten around to buying an Argon bottle just yet.

On 07/02/2019 at 10:59, Kerry-TGI said:

I was looking at a bunnings one, this one

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/bossweld-150-amp-m150-gas-gasless-mig-inverter-welder_p08911795

I do have a bit of experience helping at an engineering workshop but I mostly did prep, the welder was always set up for me

That looks a bit better than the el cheapo one I had to be fair to Bunnings welders. I would personally check out your local engineering supplies store though, I got mine through Donovans here in Whangarei and they had the best selection by far that I could find locally, and good advice for a novice like myself. Plus the price was good for what I got, I felt.  

Welding anything 3mm+ like you often would in an engineering shop is very different to panel steel, you want the fine controls I find as the difference between just the right setting and too hot/cold is very minor I find. Also prep is key so you should be well sorted for that. :smile:

DISCLAIMER: I am very much a learner, everything I say is from my own experience, which compared to a lot of people (especially on here) is very limited. But I thought my perspective may be helpful, as is that of a learner. 

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Hey does anyone know their stuff with paint? I've made some progress on the chassis but I was thinking I'd just rattle can it seeing as it doesn't need an immaculate finish. But I want to be able to give it a clean without the paint coming off. Does a durable can spray paint exist that would be suitable? 

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Paint adhesion/longevity is always gonna come down to surface prep, to an extent. For my chassis rails I have always used POR15 with good results (contrary to some opinions on here. Wire brush to clean, wax and grease remover, etch any bare steel, then wax and grease remover again (because why not) then POR15. I apply POR15 with a brush as it flattens off really well/burgeoning barry lyfe, never had a problem with brush marks, and I'm certainly no artist with a brush.   

Once again disclaimer I am not a professional but have done a few chassis' this way now and they have survived well. 

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If you want cheap and better than spray can, try wattyl killrust brushed on.  It doesn't last forever, but it does ok out of the sunlight.  Lasts about 10 years.
I think it comes in spray cans too, but i'm not really sure if that's good value for money.

Wattyl_4L_Killrust_Epoxy_Gloss_Enamel170

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Cheers mate Ive often seen that stuff on the shelf. I quizzed my local panelbeater until his patience wore a bit thin and he suggested some kind of lacquer which he can get at a great price. I'd need to get a spray gun set up though so I may end up going el cheapo. 

Does anyone have experience dealing with this rain gutter? 

I got the lower section off by taking out the spot welds but this upper part looks more complex, like its sandwiched in there. I dont want to hack it off if there's a cleaner way but I know there's a bit of rust in there that needs dealing to. And the channel is pretty far gone anyway so if I can figure out how it detaches I might be able to use that to harvest some from a local wreckers, at the least something will need to be fabricated again.

 

IMG_20190312_185353.jpg

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24 minutes ago, tortron said:

You can also use a drill bit on any pitting

Yea I was wondering about that, I was just a bit worried about going too far with it but I need to give it a try cause the lower section is getting a bit awkward to chip at. 

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On 12/03/2019 at 17:22, Ghostchips said:

If you want cheap and better than spray can, try wattyl killrust brushed on.  It doesn't last forever, but it does ok out of the sunlight.  Lasts about 10 years.
I think it comes in spray cans too, but i'm not really sure if that's good value for money.

Wattyl_4L_Killrust_Epoxy_Gloss_Enamel170

I tried a bit of this stuff but it had a weird reaction to the brunox so that's off the table unfortunately

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I have used hammerite ( also from mitre10 ) over brunox  on chassis and bumpers and it is held up well. Usually leave any rust converter at least a day before before putting any top coat over to avoid reactions. You could also try an intermediate primer between brunox and the killrust, seems to stick better. What part of the Waikato are you in? Anyways keep up the good work.

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I'll look into it, thanks. I left the brunox too long if anything, could that have played a part? I did try the primer and that was what reacted, the paint kinda rippled on it. I'm on the west side of lake Taupo. 

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Yeah i’m far from an expert. The stuff I’ve done I gave the brunox a quick scuff with a scotch brite pad then a wipe over with thinners on a rag otherwise the paint wouldn’t sit flat. I use killrust as well because it’s available locally but I think I might of used a different primer I had sitting around last time, can’t recall what type it was sorry. Found it best to put a very light coat over the brunox first followed by a heavier coat as the brunox dries quite hard and smooth. Used brunox and hammerite on my daily to tidy up some chassis mounts and a bumper without any sanding and brushed on (with 2 or 3 coats) and it’s holding up well after 18 months.

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@Otodat can you clean it without the paint coming off? That's my main concern. I used this cheap primer on the back end of the chassis and it held up nice on the brunox but I wouldn't be too confident about its durability. Hopefully I can use it in conjunction with a higher quality top coat but I've heard different paints don't blend too well.

IMG_20190317_193031.jpg

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If the rag is damp but not soaked with thinners seems clean up fine or can use wax and grease remover, wipe it on with a rag then wipe off before it drys with a clean rag. Personally I’ve found a bit of thinners to be better. The primer doesn’t need to be thick for stuff like this as long as it sticks to the brunox and the top coat sticks to it should be fine. Scotch brite pads are really good for making a surface for paint to stick to with taking it off like sanding etc. Best to do a test patch when mixing different paints. Killrust is a bit weird to paint with compared to the other few paints I’ve used and takes ages to dry but seems to hold up ok.

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I think the dream might be over, at least for this cab. I cut into the upper section of the rain channel and it's kinda sandwiched in there with a hollow part to the outside of the pillar, which is filled right up with nice dusty rust. I'm gonna do some more chopping tomorrow to really see what I'm looking at, because I don't understand how that part is fitted.

But as of right now my feeling is that I may be pushing shit uphill.

IMG_20190322_185502.jpg

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A panel beater i know doesn't bother with the gutters.  He welds up the roof or pillar & puts a gutter on afterwards.
And his personal hilux was worse than that.  Give it time & attention i'm 90% sure you'll figure out how to fix it.

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@Ghostchips that's the line of thinking I've slowly moved to, my understanding is growing as I go. The plan started as taking out sections and repairing it, then has developed into cutting the whole things off and giving the pillars the attention they need, cleaning them up and then figuring out a channel afterwards. Its just the rust inside there that scares me, but hopefully under the light of day tomorrow it'll be less daunting. I'm just gonna cut the whole thing off and see where I'm at.

 

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