mjrstar Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 This guy is 1 dollar reserve some turbo bits, you may be able to convince him just to send you the dump pipe (if it looks like the orientation would work) and throw the rest in a skip bin? https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/2370461270 Also it would pay to check the the core is lined up with the front cover and exhaust housing (there are small dowels which can be removed) . This is important if you want to use a factory waste gate actuator - which is what i was looking for on Trademe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 12 minutes ago, mjrstar said: This guy is 1 dollar reserve some turbo bits, you may be able to convince him just to send you the dump pipe (if it looks like the orientation would work) and throw the rest in a skip bin? https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/2370461270 Also it would pay to check the the core is lined up with the front cover and exhaust housing (there are small dowels which can be removed) . This is important if you want to use a factory waste gate actuator - which is what i was looking for on Trademe.. Yes I was looking for a dump pipe just now, I can always fabricate one if I get stuck, but that would definitely be easier. The assembled turbos layout worked pretty well for routing, I guessed it was the factory setup but will check when I chuck the rebuild kit in. I guess I had better start looking for actuators as well .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted November 2, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 2, 2019 Did some churbro related stuff. Turns out the OEM dump pipe heads off into the chassis area which probably wont work, so I need to make a dump pipe. Probably not a bad thing as then I can get the outlet pointing in a good direction and have a pretty straight exhaust. The internet say anything less than 3" all the way is for losers and I despite what my wife says I aint no fukken loser. Two 50mm pipes into each inlet, should be enough to feed the beast. Nuggety wee intercooler, possibly could have gone wider but it would have made the plumbing a bit harder. A freakishly long inlet pipe. Probably need something to scrub the insides out from welding slag, I dont imagine sucking it all into the engine would provide superior results. But it arrives at a convenient place... That outlet from the turbs is a 45mm pipe, the intercooler and everything else is 63mm/2.5". I can flare it out to 63mm if needed as I have a thing suitable but maybe there is a suitable 45 deg joiner/reducer? Fuck knows will have to have a google. Edit; I have never done this before, tell me if you see any dumbfuck. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 I like your work. Making good progress Aliexpress has a range of silicone joiners which are reasonably priced and the quality seems ok, havnt put any pressure in them yet though Have you got enough 'downhill' from the turbo for it to drain into the sump? Especially if you end up on a big uphill incline 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 4 minutes ago, cletus said: I like your work. Making good progress Aliexpress has a range of silicone joiners which are reasonably priced and the quality seems ok, havnt put any pressure in them yet though Have you got enough 'downhill' from the turbo for it to drain into the sump? Especially if you end up on a big uphill incline Cheers, hopefully cert man likes it too. I have something like a 150mm drop, but it is about a 500mm run and it didn't even occur to me that might park on a hill, I may need to check the angles.. good call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 you could always fit a little sump and a scavenge pump that can be turned on when you attack the firebreaks, chasing down suzukis. 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 I think I might have to do that, parking uphill would probably flood the turbo. I kindof had it in my head that I would have to do it depending on where the turbo was anyway, so I am glad @cletus expanded my range of scenarios... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 or pretend its british and go for a total loss system.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 3, 2019 Author Share Posted November 3, 2019 1 hour ago, yoeddynz said: or pretend its british and go for a total loss system.... This system will require me to find an imp to tow behind it all the time so I can blame it on that. I had a proper look during today's activities, there is only about 50mm max drop, definitely going to need a pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 9 hours ago, ThePog said: This system will require me to find an imp to tow behind it all the time so I can blame it on that.... And i have just the thing for you then.... 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted November 10, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 10, 2019 Righto bitches. @cletus pointed out the issue with my turbo positioning, ie the drain and the slope and the strong possibility of non draining etc. This caused me to spend considerable time looking for both electric and mechanical scavenger pumps, including a brief talk with Skidfactory's Al about what pumps he uses (which I only mention to give myself the opportunity to let you know that Big Al himself thinks the truck is 'mint'. I know, I am a cunt, but shit its Big Al). Whatever, this all caused me to decide to move the turbo so it can drain properly, it now sits thus; This meant a very stubby adaptor manifold that I forgot to take pics of but you can glimpse in the first pic. You can also see the beginnings of a dump pipe, things looked like they were getting pretty tight for an OEM one so I cracked on with a custom jobbie. Probably not the approved use of a band saw. A long time with the die grinder got me this. I also built an airbox with a prado panel filter; I was going to make a snorkel, but thought it would be a bit wanky. Maybe later. I then made some shit to brace up the rear spring perches as the internet tells me these are weak. I was going to weld some bracing in but I wasnt sure of the airbag situation so thought I had better wait. I have some things going to the powdercoaters tomorrow, I will chuck this in with that so it ends up all pretty like. Lots of other little stuff got done as well, screwing down the decking, running the diff and tranny vents, finishing up some wiring, sorting the heater and vacuum hoses, finding a thermo switch to run the fan etc etc... The list is getting shorter though. 23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 Making plenty more progress, but this bit feels like a bit of a grind for some reason. Probably cos I keep not quite finishing things because I need something, then getting halfway through something else before stopping cos I need something, then bits turning up so I carry on with the other.... and so on seemingly endlessly. Whatever you whining prick. This is what did get done, finished or not.. An exhaust. The tip is not 100%, I need to get the deck back on to finish this nice and tidy. Added an EGT sensor to the stumpy adaptor thingy so I know exactly when I am about to detonate the engine; Oil feed line to the turbly, probably needs a heat shield going past the manifold; Oil drain pipe from the turbly to the sump. This might get tidied a bit as it gets kindof close to the boost actuator rod; I also got given a boost actuator, some amateur sleuthing involving a tyre pump gauge and compressor tells me it is cracking the seal at about 15psi. I mounted this and discovered my bracket would hit the chassis, so I had to remake the bracket. It's all sorted but I forgot to take pics, maybe later you will be able to admire the simple elegance of this. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 19 minutes ago, ThePog said: I also got given a boost actuator, some amateur sleuthing involving a tyre pump gauge and compressor tells me it is cracking the seal at about 15psi. I did the same thing setting up an external gate and when it was put back on the car, it made a lot less boost than bench testing suggested I had not accounted for exhaust pressure pushing on the valve trying to open the gate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 8 minutes ago, cletus said: I did the same thing setting up an external gate and when it was put back on the car, it made a lot less boost than bench testing suggested I had not accounted for exhaust pressure pushing on the valve trying to open the gate I'm not super worried, it was more to confirm it worked and was roughly what the dude said it was, plus that I could get it into a good place. I think I will invest in something that I can change the springs in later. It was one of those things I didn't have that was stopping progress, but it's sorted for now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 Chuck a check valve in the boost line for quick and easy adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 39 minutes ago, Yowzer said: Chuck a check valve in the boost line for quick and easy adjustment Yea I was looking at these. How do they work? Edit: I googled, now I know. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted November 24, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 24, 2019 So I discovered that the actual gauges in the cluster are driven off 12v, not 24v. But not the lights or voltage gauge. This is potentially quite disappointing as I may have blown those gauges by running them on 24v already. We will see when shit is running, hopefully soon. On this basis I rewired the feed to the cluster which wasn't a big deal. While I was there I installed the EGT gauge and tidied up the wiring to this and the digital clock I bought and mounted. I know the EGT gauge is not sitting correctly, but this is so the relevant portion is visible where I will be sitting. I am a dick like that, the stereo in the townace is upside down so the control knob is closer to me lol. As the deck is now on hopefully permanently I checked all the wiring that I had done still made the correct things shine and blink etc, this was rather pleasingly the case. An air pump also arrived so I finished off the airbag install. The holes in the bottom just happened to be the right size for some M5 rivnuts. Every one of you should own one of these tools, fuck they are great. It has a relief valve so the bags can't get over 30psi and a gauge to check where it is at. This is driven off yet another DC convertor in the back by the batteries, which I will probably use with a series of relays to drop the trailer connection wiring back down to 12v so I don't blow up trailer wiring in the future. This has a conventional air fitting so I can also use it to pump up the tyres etc The body has to come off at least one more time so I can finish off the intake piping and sort a couple of other issues, but it is getting excitingly close to a first run... 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Epic build and skills here. Love it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 What about something like this Trailer voltage reducer CM Trailers Is in Ashburton, I'm sure You could find something more local Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakesae101 Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Safaris had a factory voltage reducer did they not? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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