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Dynafari shit errday


ThePog

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JB weld to rule the world.

 

But hang on- is that some sort of JB weld putty? Looks like quicksteel/minute mend. The stuff I generally use is the JB weld epoxy - two little tubes. Its quite runny and not at all like a putty...

Jbweld Jb Weld Steel Reinforced Cold-Weld Epoxy 7.1G Each - 80165

Or have you instantly become the master of forming JB weld mountains?

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8 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

JB weld to rule the world.

 

But hang on- is that some sort of JB weld putty? Looks like quicksteel/minute mend. The stuff I generally use is the JB weld epoxy - two little tubes. Its quite runny and not at all like a putty...

Jbweld Jb Weld Steel Reinforced Cold-Weld Epoxy 7.1G Each - 80165

Or have you instantly become the master of forming JB weld mountains?

 

You should know that for me to try something is to master it, obviously.

But no, it is a 2 part putty. I needed it to go off quickly as I didn't want to drain the oil and it would still be seeping once I cleaned the paint off etc. Also it was in a very awkward position, that was done blind from underneath...

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16 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

Is that turbo return point below the oil level line? 

My preference is to have the drain point above the oil level in the sump if at all possible.. Although in saying that if you haven't had any issues to date its probably sweet as! 

 

It was on the previous setup as I learnt to my disadvantage when I removed it one time and had to let it flow until I got a cap on it. That was a threaded fitting so I had a cap ready to go.

I had a couple of spare sumps so I redid it from scratch, the top of the tube is above the oil level... probably.

The turbo sits quite low so my options for a direct drain were a bit limited.

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The first sump I fabricated for the Niva was with a mig, it had British spec leakage rates, being poor student at the time I fitted cotton (rag) patches with araldite which worked surprisingly well until round two which was 100% tig.

Whats the temp rating on the return hose? first look gives me worry that failure means quick oil dump?

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19 minutes ago, NickJ said:

The first sump I fabricated for the Niva was with a mig, it had British spec leakage rates, being poor student at the time I fitted cotton (rag) patches with araldite which worked surprisingly well until round two which was 100% tig.

Whats the temp rating on the return hose? first look gives me worry that failure means quick oil dump?

It is oil rated but not specifically heat. I will find some silicone tube and make a shield of some sort, it is about 50mm away from the hot bits of the turbo...

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Fuck knows, its unusual enough that I have no idea of market value. I have had a surprising number of people enquire if it is for sale over the years.

I will list the pros and cons now for when it goes up on TM.

The good things;

 - it has never ever failed me in any way

 - It is the most useful vehicle I have ever owned prior to the big truck, its like a massive self propelling wheelbarrow, it will take a literal ton of shit anywhere, limited only by the open diffs

 - It has low range and the 4x4 is a pushbutton to engage

 - It can get along over the hills pretty well, limited only by the inside driving wheel lifting up and squealing, @sidewaysickness can verify

 - it has a brand new BT stereo

 - 5x virtually new tyres on Suzuki rims + 5x worn muds on the original 14s

 - 5 on the tree yeahh

 - The seating has been adjusted so I can fit and I am 6'3"

The quirks;

 - It has a NZ new carby on it, this is actuated by a bicycle friction gear lever under the seat

 - the carb makes it phut a little at idle, I dont know why and its not bad enough to care

 - The exhaust has a rattle cos I welded a new tailpipe too close to the towbar

 - When you have it in high range there is a special tool to keep the lever in place otherwise it works its way out and makes a bad noise

 - The engine clicks slightly when starting from cold cos i once took a bit off the top of a valve to test if it was sticking, the click is the extra time for that hydraulic tappet to pump up. Doesn't seem to matter at all tho and that was not the problem

 - the big tyres rub a wee bit which I have mostly sorted by smashing the inner guards with a hammer

 - it uses about a litre of oil over 6 months, but it does have a light to tell you to top it up

The bad things;

 - it is pretty bouncy and loud on long trips, its quite fatiguing to drive

 - The drivers seat is completely fucked and impossible to find a replacement

 - it is not super fuel efficient, but this could just be the lack of tuning done to the carb when we swapped it. It really needs an injected setup

 

In reality its pretty great.

Oh and it has dings and scrapes everywhere.

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