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Dynafari shit errday


ThePog

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Interesting question. I have a spreadsheet of all the costs and descriptions of parts, as well as the parts I have sold to recoup something (the balance is sitting at $4,413.79 as we speak and sure to rise soon. This does not account for my time, which is valuable when I am billing other people, but worthless here as it counts as free time relaxation).

The reality is that nearly everything that is not Dyna or Saf has been modified to suit, so direct replacement doesn't really count, but I mostly have a log of what it was.

Pretty much everything in the drivetrain is OEM Saf, the cab stuff is Dyna, so that simplifies it.

If this works out as well as I think it will, I am intending this to be the last vehicle I ever own - simple, rugged and easy to fix, so as long as I still have my marbles I should remember everything.

For this reason I was going to call it the Final Truck, or FUCK for short, but that presumes quite a lot about how well it will work and my own limitations as I get older...

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Talking about GQ brakes, I have one and with 33's the brakes seemed to be marginal. I needed to certify it which involved a 100-0 kph x 4 consecutive brake tests.

It initially failed due to fade.

So I fitted some good pads, made a bracket to raised the rear proportioning valve to equal the suspension lift (then some adjusting as at first it made the rears lock up first).

With that it passed.

A few years later the brakes felt like they were made of wood. Tracked it down to a vacuum leak in the clutch booster and a weak vacuum from the pump/alternator. Blocked of clutch booster and fitted new alternator/vac pump.  

Now they are great, even towing heavy weights its good.

 

TLDR: GQ brakes are actually pretty good with a little maintenance.

 

EDIT: awesome project....think I've said that before...

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cheers man, what turbo are you running?

Been thinking about a SCR320 as I dont really want to drop $1500 on something serious. All I am looking for is a bit more power/fuel efficiency without going mad..

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10 minutes ago, ThePog said:

cheers man, what turbo are you running?

Been thinking about a SCR320 as I dont really want to drop $1500 on something serious. All I am looking for is a bit more power/fuel efficiency without going mad..

The same holset he221 I'm going to use on my 4bd1 would work well on the td42. I got a brand new genuine one with dump pipe flange for $900nz delivered

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55 minutes ago, ThePog said:

cheers man, what turbo are you running?

Been thinking about a SCR320 as I dont really want to drop $1500 on something serious. All I am looking for is a bit more power/fuel efficiency without going mad..

I'm using a TD05-16G with an 8cm housing on T3 flange, its the same spec as an Evo 3 one,

Made by Kinugawa and was about $1k new. Read lots and lots of reviews on these turbo's used by Ausy's on TD42's. 

Its a good match for the 10cm standard pump, spools quickly etc. Even better with water meth injection.

Maybe have a look at Mitsi TD based turbo's?

My nephew had a sc320 on a TD42 but it was burning oil when he got it already on the engine, so I don't know how long it lasted.

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Yea I had a look at your build thread and answered my own question lol.

I guess the SCR320s are like a lot of stuff out of China, good if you get a good one, shit if you luck out on the quality control.

TBH I know fuck all about turbo's, I might have to do a bit of proper research. I dont really want to get into upgrading pumps etc.

The good thing is that I will be fabricating all the manifolds etc, so I could use pretty much anything that suits.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doubt no longer Pete, it is a beautiful thing.

The plan is to swap the bulbs and relays, then run it all at 24v. There is stuff like the blower motor and wipers which might go a bit too fast and let out smoke at 24v, so I will get a DC DC converter and run them at 12v off that, with the signals driven through relays if needed.

That's the plan anyway.

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Spent some time adding to the wiring and tidying the routing and earth's etc.

Then I spent the weekend welding the deck up.

mDOMiUG.jpg

 

And adding somewhere for the batteries to go. I kind of wanted them closer to the cab but this meant either bolloxing up my side drawer plans or making them really hard to access, this is a reasonable compromise.

zICguLM.jpg

The deck also has this feature;

618KTCS.jpg

Because I will mount this bad boy that I picked up the other day;

6fx4shx.jpg

This is good as I do not like to lift things.

In other news, the engine I have lined up is looking less likely as the dude has not responded to my messages for 3 months. I have a truck coming from the Waikato through Nelson and back in a few weeks, so if anyone has a decent silvertop lying around let me know. I literally have cash sitting here waiting to spend on an engine.

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The silvertop was the first couple of years of production, then they lightened everything and it became known as the blacktop. This meant things weren't as robust, but then the factory blacktop turbos had extra oil sprays under the pistons etc. The silvertops take turboing just fine, the non turbo blacktops don't. Factory turbo blacktops take more boost pretty well. The silvertops are considered pretty bullet proof either way.

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Na it is local. There is a guy called Chris Purcell in chch that wrecks them, he snatches up all the wagons he can, doesn't leave much for anyone else.

He sells runner engines for 2.5k plus, the one I had lined up was 1500.

There will be room for a rear drawer, but it won't be very deep. The other drawers and cubbies I have planned will probably cover what I need...

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