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ThePog implements mad boost on the Dynafari


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1 hour ago, JustHarry said:

I find with my 78 series cruiser it's a lot better to just drop a gear and travel a bit slower. Keeps egts low and doesnt lug the motor at low rpm 

The only thing you do by keeping it in a high gear is make your egts hit to roof and do damage 

Pulled most of 3t from mot to chch. Never had any overheating issues. Even up Spooners/hope saddle/Lewis 

 

That's just testing it, I otherwise drop out of o/d with hills and or towing..

 

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1 hour ago, Mof said:

What about a short shroud/ scoop at the front of the exit to create a venturi of the air passing under the vehicle drawing air out through the rad

If I had a 3d scanner i would scan the lot and do some flow analysis, pretty sure there is a budget CFD in Solidworks.

 

11 minutes ago, anglia4 said:

Just move back to Taranaki.

We have passive water cooling of all the things pretty much all year round.

My family insists the weather in Hawera is just as good as Nelson's, I laugh in their faces.

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18 minutes ago, cletus said:

If you need more cooling so you have a bit of a safety margin, have you got room somewhere for a smaller radiator in the air flow at the front? 

I have thought about this as a possibility, there is room for something for sure. This would be a last ditch effort though.

Plus I have plans to front mount the intercooler in that space.

 

Also some of the excess heat might be generated from the poor mans fuelling set up, I imagine the boost compensator would even out heat production which might help things along.

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19 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

You could buy a cheap Chinese w2a intercooler and run a coolant line through the wet side, then feed the air side by a naca duct. 

/hot air balloons etc. 

interestingly the radiator has two ports on each tank, not sure what they are for. I could hook up an auxiliary radiator somewhere up in the airflow and pump through that.

Jesus, it will be fairly bristling with radiators by the time I am done...

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Cooling the oil can lessen the load on the radiator, as you get a lot of oil > coolant heat transfer 

Oil gets to a lot of hotter places that coolant doesnt, and then transfers into the coolant via block

And yeah if you have a trans cooler that's using the radiator bottom tank then biff that too for an air cooler
 

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8 minutes ago, Roman said:

Cooling the oil can lessen the load on the radiator, as you get a lot of oil > coolant heat transfer 

Oil gets to a lot of hotter places that coolant doesnt, and then transfers into the coolant via block

And yeah if you have a trans cooler that's using the radiator bottom tank then biff that too for an air cooler
 

Na there's no trans cooler, I just sealed those ports off.

Might be an idea to drop an oil cooler in there tho.

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3 years then to one year

 

From 1 July 2014, vehicles first registered on or after 1 January 2000 must undergo a WoF test at first registration, at three years, and then annually after that; older vehicles must undergo a WoF test every six months.

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Righto, I need to get some opinions from you bitches as the coolant is being weird.

A few days ago I did a big mission around town, when I was back and it had cooled down I checked the coolant level, sweet as. Then I did a wee jaunt layer that day to show it off to my uncle who was visiting, when I checked it later it needed a cup of coolant.

Filled it, did a mission all the way into town the next day, levels sweet.

10 minute drive this morning, the overflow is full and spilling on the ground.

Granted I had been topping it up so naturally the overflow would get fuller.

It kindof feels like it has something to do with whether the thermostat opens during a trip or not. This is the only thing I can think of that is definitely different in the short/long trip situations.

My current theories of things that might be contributing are;

1. The expansion tank might be a bit low Vs the height of the filler, but this shouldn't really make a difference...? Maybe mounted above the filler it would always suck fluid back in, I dunno. I can mount it high in the cab and see first hand what's going on if needed. The hose is new so shouldn't have any leaks. Maybe I need to change it to an overflow type.

2. The rad cap isn't playing the game, maybe because the filler neck isn't exactly the same geometry as it is an aftermarket that was welded on. I did check this but maybe it needs more investigation. The rad cap is new and 'oem'.

3. The water pump is working too hard and somehow that is fucking things up. I could put a secondary electric pump in there to help things along?

4. I have managed to blow the head gasket with all the boosts.

I have some nebulous ideas around the long flow path and the water pump power and what happens when the thermostat opens, but nothing to definitively explain it.

Lay it on me....

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