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ThePog implements mad boost on the Dynafari


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Good quality coolant prevents stray electrons flowing through it, otherwise the insides of your radiators / hoses / engines can get all electrolysized.

It could be an issue with everything running such long distances and bolting to different points on the vehicle. 

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Electrolysis damage in an engine cooling system is caused by unintended electrical currents that flow from voltage differences that exist in the engine coolant jacket, the radiator, and the heater core. The damage can include rapid corrosion, pitting, flaking, and pinholes. The voltage differences may result from poorly grounded electrical equipment that has a stray voltage problem.

Another source of cooling system voltages is from the action of dissimilar metals with which the coolant is in contact. Metals and alloys that are different from each other have different electrode potentials. When two of them come into contact in an electrolyte, one acts as a cathode and the other as an anode. The engine coolant is the electrolyte. The metals need not be physically touching, as the engine coolant is the conductive path for an ionic transfer. The ionic transfer causes erosion and pitting of metal, or electrolysis damage.

 

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dijjkRd.jpg

Shits sorted, I stripped and checked the clappers, all is well.

I have paid less for entire functioning cars than I did for the brake pads in there, bitches better be good.

The only thing holding me back from assembling it all is finding the correct rod end for the drag link, as I have modded the y60 drag link to suit the steering box setup I want to continue using it. This means sourcing a rod end; left hand thread, M22 x 1.5 male, taper to suit Y61 axles. This is proving more difficult than I imagined. There is one out of a Nissan Condor that might do it -  SE4381L, but I might need to buy one to check the taper.

Anyone have any hints? I am wait for a reply from Superior Engineering in Oz, we will see.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A short pictureless update and a question.

It took a while but I finally picked up the HBI tie rod end from the courier's this morning and chucked it in. 

This meant I could finally take it for a test drive to see how those brakes performed and to check that the axles umm, axled. They did.

I would be lying if I said the brakes had a lot of feel, but fuck they are solid and pull up well. It is a big improvement, so that is positive.

After a ridiculous amount of investigation I bought some new rims and tyres to suit the wider axles, 285 75 R16 tyres on 8" zero offset ROH rims. They should end up halfway between the old sticky outy and the current sticky outy and with roughly the same diameter. The rims are black cos that's what was available, I would have liked to paint them silver as per the old ones, but I'm sure they will look sweet.

It's a lot of cash so I hope they work.

I should have those on Monday fingers crossed.

 

Onto the q.

One thing I did while waiting for bits to arrive was adjust the boost actuator to try to get a bit more about of it. It now sits at a solid 10psi vs 8-9 previously, but builds up way faster. It actually feels really good at that so I am not sure I will bother to much, but what do you reckon on adjustable actuators vs bleed type boost controllers?

Any recommendations?

 

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Check valve type adjusters are better than bleed valve as they ensure the gate stays shut right up until it needs to open, which can help it reach poosts a tad earlier. If it's sweet with a tensioned up actuator us may as well just leave it as is though

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On 12/07/2020 at 16:56, ThePog said:

 

Now to convince the wife to come down to a cold shed to help me bleed the brakes...

 

My wife put in her wedding vows that she would always be there to help bleed the brakes :thumbleft:

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7 hours ago, Yowzer said:

Check valve type adjusters are better than bleed valve as they ensure the gate stays shut right up until it needs to open, which can help it reach poosts a tad earlier. If it's sweet with a tensioned up actuator us may as well just leave it as is though

Yea it's a hard one as 10psi doesn't seem like a lot, but it feels better than I expected for this engine and clearly isn't going to overstress anything at those levels, so yea.

Maybe I will leave any tweaks for after the cert and I can do some testing with the boost aneroid.

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9 hours ago, ThePog said:

Its time to get the compliance stuff done and i need a name for the paperwork..

I will add suggestions to the poll if you have any.

Dynamight

Zututututu

Whooshter

Crusher

Deeztour 

 

 

 

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