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ThePog implements balance on the Dynafari


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Well my power steering tweaks seem to have worked, it went for a whole trip up and down the road without having a spaz.

Now onto the next thing, when it comes on boost it makes a noise like a high pitched raspberry, about middle c. It doesn't change tone with boost changes. I guess it could be the wastegate actuating but I imagine it is a boost leak. I am surprised it doesn't change sound though...

What d'youse reckon?

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9 hours ago, h4nd said:

Sounds perfect. Add rubber chicken to exhaust for full effect. :grin:

Get offsider to drive it, and stethescope it to work out where in the system?

That's pretty much what it sounds like now, it's a solid indication you are making boost, so perhaps I will leave it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

You bastards must be busy or I have been lazy, I had to dredge this from the second page..

So I have been thinking about the radiator situation, I not super happy with it. It works pretty well but there are some downsides to the setup.

Firstly, it's a shame I had to put the ducting stuff in, it makes access quite hard plus there is a chance the diff could bend it all up and potentially fuck the rad if I hit a hard enough bump. And as ol fuck knuckle @sidewaysickness pointed out when I go hardcore 4 wheelin' it will push mud up in there..

Secondly, the metalwork gets pretty hot in the cab. I expected this but if you lift the lid while the fan is running it's like a fucking furnace blast in there.

So I have been thinking about relocating the rad to the tray behind the cab. This solves both issues in one hit, and it isn't really that big of a drama to achieve.

Has anyone had any experience with doing this and can tell me the pitfalls?

The bummer is that a standard Safari rad will be better suited so potentially my spendy custom rad may not be used :doubt:.

What do y'all reckon?

 

Edit; there's actually a spot in front of the rear axle under the deck that could work pretty well, I might have to investigate further.

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I had a look-see today, I still have the mock-up rad thing that I used to set it up at the front so I chucked it in this space, if you zoom in you can see it;

lrLgodo.jpg

Bonus sweet coffee cup with bigger, more comfortable handle.

So the rad fits in that space and the outlets will work as they are now. I know it's facing the wrong way for airflow, but it would be well protected and would still see some flow. 

It would mean that it's all still below the rad cap on the engine so its simply a case of mounting it and running some pipes.

If I give away some space in the drawers I could mount it facing forward. I'll leave the idea to fester for a few days to see how I feel about it.

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On 23/05/2020 at 14:27, ThePog said:

 

Firstly, it's a shame I had to put the ducting stuff in, it makes access quite hard plus there is a chance the diff could bend it all up and potentially fuck the rad if I hit a hard enough bump. And as ol fuck knuckle @sidewaysickness pointed out when I go hardcore 4 wheelin' it will push mud up in there..

 

If there is knuckles to be fucked, I WILL fuck them.

 

This is a good idea though, Im glad you're addressing this issue

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Just now, sidewaysickness said:

If there is knuckles to be fucked, I WILL fuck them.

 

This is a good idea though, Im glad you're addressing this issue

I seek only your approval.

Edit; Also if I lose some drawer space I can put it under the deck but right behind the cab, it will get airflow and be in the correct orientation as well. The drawer will be stink tho.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rad is relocated now. I mounted it in place, then had a hard look at how the fuck the pipes would actually get there. I found a route that will work although I'll need to add a bash guard to protect where it goes under the gearbox.

I then realized that having the rad inlet and exit  facing backwards was some dumb shit and would make for complicated piping, so I pulled it out and cut all the mounts off and rejigged it all, this took up a large chunk of today.

I have a length of 304 dairy pipe and some tight 90deg bends, I will crack on with this tomorrow hopefully.

First try;

TyyGWsL.jpg

eUVJnBV.jpg

 

Second try;

7knwmv4.jpg

gH8fKke.jpg

Obviously it will need a stone guard...

I also looked at getting some tyres but it seems that having 33x12.5 - 15 tyres on 7" rims displeases the tyre man, I may need to find some wider rims as I am fucked if I am going smaller than 33".

I need to find the offset of the rims I have and see what offset I need in a 9 or 10" rim to keep the same tyre position...

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FYI - potential solutions are 33x10.5 tyres on a 7"wide rim and you are also allowed to fit 33x12.5"wide tyres on an 8" wide rim. The LVVTA tyre chart says minimum 8.5" but its changed and the tyre-rim chart has not been updated yet.

In saying that, the problem you might have with 33" tyres is hauling that bad boy up and passing the brake test. Hiluxes can fail on 33's with a 3 stop brake test, yours being a scratch build requires a 5 stop brake test and I think that you are going to have an issue passing a brake test.

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Just now, KKtrips said:

FYI - potential solutions are 33x10.5 tyres on a 7"wide rim and you are also allowed to fit 33x12.5"wide tyres on an 8" wide rim. The LVVTA tyre chart says minimum 8.5" but its changed and the tyre-rim chart has not been updated yet.

In saying that, the problem you might have with 33" tyres is hauling that bad boy up and passing the brake test. Hiluxes can fail on 33's with a 3 stop brake test, yours being a scratch build requires a 5 stop brake test and I think that you are going to have an issue passing a brake test.

Right, tbh I didn't realise there were actual limits, it came with the 33/12.5 on the rims and I was just going to replace them like for like, obviously this isn't a go.

I checked the offset tonight and it is +5mm as far as I can tell. All the 10" rims are -44 so that's no good. So if a 15x8 that can work then good.

If I go R16 x 8 then a 305/70-16 will be it. There is a zero offset available in that size.

I have been wondering about the brakes, they are pretty good now after bedding back in but not amazing. The calipers are pretty budget affairs, just a single side, single piston. I might have a trawl of the patrol sites to see what people have done to improve things.

Cheers for the heads up.

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Just now, ThePog said:

If I go R16 x 8 then a 305/70-16 will be it. There is a zero offset available in that size.

16” rims give some more options with 255/85 and 285/75 both being around 33” tall but a bit skinnier 

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