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ThePog builds a Dynafari - so many usage updates


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2 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Epic build and skills here.

Love it.

Cheers man, you can blame my stepfather who bought me a $250 Mk1 Cortina when I was 13, shit has steamrolled from there.

 

2 hours ago, Mof said:

What about something like this 

Trailer voltage reducer

CM Trailers Is in Ashburton, I'm sure You could find something more local 

That looks like a lot less fucking around than what i had in mind. Probably cheaper as 24v relays are not cheap, and I would need four of them.. I will investigate further.

 

1 hour ago, jakesae101 said:

Safaris had a factory voltage reducer did they not?

Yes they do, thats kind of how I discovered that the dash runs multiple voltages. I found a couple of mentions about gauges stopping working and the answer being to replace the DC convertor. It took a week or two before my brain started to think 'hang on dickhead'.

I probably have it somewhere but it has so many inputs and outputs that I decided to go with aftermarket ones for simplicity. I have 3x now to reduce the load on each, plus I have wired the input and output connectors the same so that if the important one that runs the wipers and blower motor shits itself I can swap it all over on the fly.

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23 minutes ago, Casper said:

The Cortina you had wasn't a green 4 door with a black stripes over the boot was it?

It was a dark green 4 door, no black on it tho. it was white when I got it...

Now I am mentally reviewing the things I did to that, I hope it wasnt you I sold it to. This was 30 years ago so hopefully there is a statute of limitations.

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Looking great! I can recommend running a hi flow lower temp thermostat with these engines if you are not doing so already.  My Safari ran at 80 degrees just about all the time with one and a triple row radiator.  I can fully recommend the Auberins digital gauges too - I ran them for EGT and water temp.

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4 hours ago, Stu said:

Looking great! I can recommend running a hi flow lower temp thermostat with these engines if you are not doing so already.  My Safari ran at 80 degrees just about all the time with one and a triple row radiator.  I can fully recommend the Auberins digital gauges too - I ran them for EGT and water temp.

I did look into this a bit as it looked very much like the standard thermostat would not actually do much, I ended up with a taller version that looked like it would actually flow some fluid through the rad when needed. I cant remember the temp on it though? We will see how it goes for cooling as the rad doesnt have a big area presented to the air. The thermoswitch cuts in at 105deg, cuts off at 100, so that should keep it under control pretty well.

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2 hours ago, UTERUS said:

I use this in my defender, as I wanted one gauge to do everything and you can set warnings.

 

https://ppdperformance.nz/products/redarc-egt-and-boost-pressure-gauge-with-optional-temperature-display

I will probably get something like this later on. I did look at something similar but I just wanted some sort of EGT gauge that wasnt too shit but not too expensive either as I knew i would be broke again after buying the batteries and turbo stuff..

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TD42's are known as a kettle so make sure you do everything you can to keep them running cool.  In my opinion 100 degrees is way too hot to run them at but worth a go and see what its like.  There is plenty of info on how the thermostats work on the aussie 4wd forums :)

Here's the gauges I ran, shit photo but you get the idea. They are 24v gauges from aliexpress and were about $25 each from memory. They come with a programmable warning light and outputs for fans/warning bells/relays. I bought one with red numbers for the EGT and green for the water temp. I ran a thermocouple in the exhaust manifold pre-turbo for EGT and another one in the thermostat housing for the water.

20191116_122709.jpg?w=403&zoom=2

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I chose that thermoswitch because I believe that is what the factory spec is according to my researches/Haynes manual. That might be wrong, but it won't be boiling at 105deg and hotter is better for fuel efficiency.

Maybe I'll buy a lower rated one just in case. .

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1 hour ago, Stu said:

Yeah it should be fine, just highlighting they are known to be a kettle mate. Love the build.

Cheers, I have made so many research/opinion based calls on what to do with this build it is hard to remember why sometimes, I just hope I made the right decision while I was paying full attention to it...

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Righto. Yesterday I got it to turn over. It is also definitely pumping oil as the level dropped to (I assume) fill the oil filters, plus I hadn't tightened the oil feed to the turbo and it was pissing out.

Today I got it to turn over again, but not much else. Then I discovered that there are two fuel cut off solenoids and both need power for everything to run ok. I temporarily sorted that one.

This was immediately more promising, now it definitely wants to run but seems like it is not getting enough fuel to carry on. When the injector nuts are cracked there is not a lot of fuel coming out.

Here is where I am at;

 

 

Someone suggested i bleed it with the ignition on to open the inlet cut off valve, I might try that, what other suggestions do you have?

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21 minutes ago, Mof said:

Are you wot cranking with the injector nuts cracked? 

I am not sure I have tried that variation. I will do it now.

Edit; no change and still really not a lot of fuel coming out when they are cracked. To me it is pointing strongly towards the timing not being right. When you prime it there it heaps of fuel at the outlet banjo.

second edit; a wee bit of engine start gets it running for a couple of seconds.

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Try locking all the bleeders and give the lift pump 10 or so pumps to drive any air in the injector pump up the return.

@MOF whats the valve in the return line called that holds a little pressure in the pump? I had a similar situation with a truck and it turned out that that valve had been left out by a previous person.

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