Stu Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Yes they do, pretty low amperage ability from memory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 25, 2019 Author Share Posted November 25, 2019 2 hours ago, flyingbrick said: Epic build and skills here. Love it. Cheers man, you can blame my stepfather who bought me a $250 Mk1 Cortina when I was 13, shit has steamrolled from there. 2 hours ago, Mof said: What about something like this Trailer voltage reducer CM Trailers Is in Ashburton, I'm sure You could find something more local That looks like a lot less fucking around than what i had in mind. Probably cheaper as 24v relays are not cheap, and I would need four of them.. I will investigate further. 1 hour ago, jakesae101 said: Safaris had a factory voltage reducer did they not? Yes they do, thats kind of how I discovered that the dash runs multiple voltages. I found a couple of mentions about gauges stopping working and the answer being to replace the DC convertor. It took a week or two before my brain started to think 'hang on dickhead'. I probably have it somewhere but it has so many inputs and outputs that I decided to go with aftermarket ones for simplicity. I have 3x now to reduce the load on each, plus I have wired the input and output connectors the same so that if the important one that runs the wipers and blower motor shits itself I can swap it all over on the fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 The Cortina you had wasn't a green 4 door with a black stripes over the boot was it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 25, 2019 Author Share Posted November 25, 2019 23 minutes ago, Casper said: The Cortina you had wasn't a green 4 door with a black stripes over the boot was it? It was a dark green 4 door, no black on it tho. it was white when I got it... Now I am mentally reviewing the things I did to that, I hope it wasnt you I sold it to. This was 30 years ago so hopefully there is a statute of limitations. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Was just asking as I sold a green 4 door back in the early 90s with a.pinto in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted November 25, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 25, 2019 30 minutes ago, Casper said: Was just asking as I sold a green 4 door back in the early 90s with a.pinto in it. This would have been in '85. It was from Oakura, white with 2 gears available on the column shift. Rust holes behind the back doors you could fit a hand into. We drove it back to Hawera around the mountain to avoid the popo with only 2nd and 4th gears. I heard the engine blew up shortly after I sold it. That was a 1600 crossflow that i put in with a floor change box, I didnt have many tools so I cut the hole for the gearstick with a cold chisel and a big hammer. The paint was terrible, I put more than 4 litres of bog into it along with some roofing iron to support things. I learnt how much I don't like painting things when the hours of what you thought were spectacular prep ended up with a sweet grapefruit finish. Hopefully I have learnt some things since then. 7 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 3, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 3, 2019 Shit the details take time, I have been dicking around with the turbo plumbing for ever it seems. I have dropped a chunk of money on it too, it has got to the stage where I am just paying for the most convenient parts, not shopping around and waiting for shit to arrive.. All this included reworking the boost actuator mount for the third time as it simply wouldn't fit in the same place as the chassis rail when I tried to fit the turbo. And rerouting the drain so it misses the actuator rod. It is all quite a bit tidier now tho. So it is all done as of tonight, just need to fit a couple of mud shields and the cab can go back on for potentially the last time. Look at all that poos. Not sure if I need to set up a heat shield where the inlet crosses over the exhaust, it's 100mm away, so maybe not. I also made a shroud for the fan to space it off the rad, and not use the threaded rod that was passing through the core and possibly would have sawn through my expensive rad and fucked it. I might replace that beading with something rated for the job as well; I took this pic before taking the cab off yet again, that stance is keeping my enthusiasm high. 23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Looking great! I can recommend running a hi flow lower temp thermostat with these engines if you are not doing so already. My Safari ran at 80 degrees just about all the time with one and a triple row radiator. I can fully recommend the Auberins digital gauges too - I ran them for EGT and water temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 I use this in my defender, as I wanted one gauge to do everything and you can set warnings. https://ppdperformance.nz/products/redarc-egt-and-boost-pressure-gauge-with-optional-temperature-display Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 4 hours ago, Stu said: Looking great! I can recommend running a hi flow lower temp thermostat with these engines if you are not doing so already. My Safari ran at 80 degrees just about all the time with one and a triple row radiator. I can fully recommend the Auberins digital gauges too - I ran them for EGT and water temp. I did look into this a bit as it looked very much like the standard thermostat would not actually do much, I ended up with a taller version that looked like it would actually flow some fluid through the rad when needed. I cant remember the temp on it though? We will see how it goes for cooling as the rad doesnt have a big area presented to the air. The thermoswitch cuts in at 105deg, cuts off at 100, so that should keep it under control pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 2 hours ago, UTERUS said: I use this in my defender, as I wanted one gauge to do everything and you can set warnings. https://ppdperformance.nz/products/redarc-egt-and-boost-pressure-gauge-with-optional-temperature-display I will probably get something like this later on. I did look at something similar but I just wanted some sort of EGT gauge that wasnt too shit but not too expensive either as I knew i would be broke again after buying the batteries and turbo stuff.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 TD42's are known as a kettle so make sure you do everything you can to keep them running cool. In my opinion 100 degrees is way too hot to run them at but worth a go and see what its like. There is plenty of info on how the thermostats work on the aussie 4wd forums Here's the gauges I ran, shit photo but you get the idea. They are 24v gauges from aliexpress and were about $25 each from memory. They come with a programmable warning light and outputs for fans/warning bells/relays. I bought one with red numbers for the EGT and green for the water temp. I ran a thermocouple in the exhaust manifold pre-turbo for EGT and another one in the thermostat housing for the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 I chose that thermoswitch because I believe that is what the factory spec is according to my researches/Haynes manual. That might be wrong, but it won't be boiling at 105deg and hotter is better for fuel efficiency. Maybe I'll buy a lower rated one just in case. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 Yeah it should be fine, just highlighting they are known to be a kettle mate. Love the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 1 hour ago, Stu said: Yeah it should be fine, just highlighting they are known to be a kettle mate. Love the build. Cheers, I have made so many research/opinion based calls on what to do with this build it is hard to remember why sometimes, I just hope I made the right decision while I was paying full attention to it... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 7, 2019 Author Share Posted December 7, 2019 Righto. Yesterday I got it to turn over. It is also definitely pumping oil as the level dropped to (I assume) fill the oil filters, plus I hadn't tightened the oil feed to the turbo and it was pissing out. Today I got it to turn over again, but not much else. Then I discovered that there are two fuel cut off solenoids and both need power for everything to run ok. I temporarily sorted that one. This was immediately more promising, now it definitely wants to run but seems like it is not getting enough fuel to carry on. When the injector nuts are cracked there is not a lot of fuel coming out. Here is where I am at; Someone suggested i bleed it with the ignition on to open the inlet cut off valve, I might try that, what other suggestions do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted December 7, 2019 Share Posted December 7, 2019 Are you wot cranking with the injector nuts cracked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 7, 2019 Author Share Posted December 7, 2019 21 minutes ago, Mof said: Are you wot cranking with the injector nuts cracked? I am not sure I have tried that variation. I will do it now. Edit; no change and still really not a lot of fuel coming out when they are cracked. To me it is pointing strongly towards the timing not being right. When you prime it there it heaps of fuel at the outlet banjo. second edit; a wee bit of engine start gets it running for a couple of seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted December 7, 2019 Share Posted December 7, 2019 Probably good to check, for peace of mind at least. Do I have memories of there being a gauze filter in the inlet fitting of the fuel pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted December 7, 2019 Share Posted December 7, 2019 Try locking all the bleeders and give the lift pump 10 or so pumps to drive any air in the injector pump up the return. @MOF whats the valve in the return line called that holds a little pressure in the pump? I had a similar situation with a truck and it turned out that that valve had been left out by a previous person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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