tortron Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 wonder if its if the difference between the coolant lines heating up vs not. They were pretty long were they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 1 minute ago, tortron said: wonder if its if the difference between the coolant lines heating up vs not. They were pretty long were they? They are quite long. What effect do you think this would have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Sounds like its not consistent pulling back from the expansion tank. I would look at the radiator cap seal and any potential for loss of suck from the vent hose when cooling down. The first thing i would do is carefully mark the expansion tank level when 100% cooled down and see if it returns to that level after a heat cycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 Just now, mjrstar said: Sounds like its not consistent pulling back from the expansion tank. I would look at the radiator cap seal and any potential for loss of suck from the vent hose when cooling down. That's why I wondered if giving it gravity assist would help, with the added bonus of definitely getting any air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 I'd say the results of elevating the expansion tank would be negligible. Is the filler neck definitely compatible with the cap? Also when cold there is not really a requirement to have a huge amount of excess coolant in your expansion tank, its possible now that you have a larger volume of coolant you need to either start your expansion tank level off much lower when cold or run a larger expansion vessel.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 27 minutes ago, mjrstar said: I'd say the results of elevating the expansion tank would be negligible. Is the filler neck definitely compatible with the cap? Also when cold there is not really a requirement to have a huge amount of excess coolant in your expansion tank, its possible now that you have a larger volume of coolant you need to either start your expansion tank level off much lower when cold or run a larger expansion vessel.. I just checked the cap geometry, it is definitely the right setup. The cap is also definitely the type that allows fluid to be sucked back through. I just took 500ml out of the expansion tank, it is now just below the full mark. I'll check the piping too. I do wonder how the expansion tank levels would cause the issue though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 The "full" mark is for when the engine is at operating temp? Is the cap on the expansion tank allowing air back in during cool-down to replace the volume of coolant headed back to the radiator? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 14 minutes ago, mjrstar said: The "full" mark is for when the engine is at operating temp? Is the cap on the expansion tank allowing air back in during cool-down to replace the volume of coolant headed back to the radiator? Good point. I will run it up to temp and siphon off to the full mark. And check the cap. Maybe the extra volume of coolant needs way more expansion space? The more I think about it the more it is the coolant not returning correctly due to volume/expansion/siphoning effects. If on a short trip it gets up to pressure, blows it through but it is unable to return it, maybe because the unheated/uncirculated volume of coolant on the rad side of the thermostat interferes somehow. Long trips everything is equalised heat wise, and the cooling down allows proper vacuum to be produced....? Best theory yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 There are some interesting old autospeed stories that go into cooling in some depth https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_110478/article.html@populararticle https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_111195/article.html@populararticle https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_111234/article.html@populararticle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 11 minutes ago, Nominal said: There are some interesting old autospeed stories that go into cooling in some depth https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_110478/article.html@populararticle https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_111195/article.html@populararticle https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_111234/article.html@populararticle Chur, I will check those out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 1, 2021 Author Share Posted January 1, 2021 I think I have solved it, it's probably a combo of two things; The expansion tank had quite a long connecting tube, plus it was quite low relative to the filler. I think that it was just struggling to pull the coolant back. I did a cheeky mod to check this which allows me to monitor the coolant and give a bit of gravity assist; This highlighted the second and possibly more relevant issue. Because I could see what was happening I soon realised that it takes quite a lot of time for the engine to cool enough to suck it all back. I had been waiting half an hour or so to check the levels, but it has taken something like 4-5 hrs to suck most of it back after a 20 min drive today. So actually it was me introducing the air when I cracked the cap. What a dumb cunt. For some reason I had only ever checked it the day after when I had done a long drive, obviously giving it enough time to suck it back. Clearly this skewed the results and probably created a problem where possibly there wasn't one. Doh! Anyway with the earlier rad change there is enough room to put the tank just in front of the engine, and a more reasonable distance and height. I reckon I'll do that tomorrow. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 On 22/12/2020 at 11:57, anglia4 said: Just move back to Taranaki. We have passive water cooling of all the things pretty much all year round. On 22/12/2020 at 12:10, ThePog said: My family insists the weather in Hawera is just as good as Nelson's, I laugh in their faces. I was chatting to some visitors from the naki a couple of weeks ago and they too claimed that they have about the same sunshine hours as Nelson! I thought to myself 'hmmmmm- I always thought it rained heaps there' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 1, 2021 Author Share Posted January 1, 2021 8 minutes ago, yoeddynz said: I was chatting to some visitors from the naki a couple of weeks ago and they too claimed that they have about the same sunshine hours as Nelson! I thought to myself 'hmmmmm- I always thought it rained heaps there' They are fucking lying. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Those Naki druggos with their rose tinted glasses eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 1, 2021 Author Share Posted January 1, 2021 More like meth delusions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Not far behind.... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 1, 2021 Author Share Posted January 1, 2021 5 minutes ago, fletch said: Not far behind.... My family live in Hawera, even by some miracle they get as much sun as Nelson the southerly wind would bring reality crashing in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted January 2, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 2, 2021 I mounted that expansion tank somewhere convenient. Went for a drive and all seems to be behaving. I also made some racks to carry long things, did the rear a few days ago and sorted the front out today. I'll get those zinc arc sprayed I imagine; Might make the rear clamp on rather than ratcheted, you have to properly crank it up to prevent it from rocking a little.... 15 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted January 9, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 9, 2021 In my relentless quest to get the cooling to the point where I don't have to worry about it, and in the belief that increasing cooling capacity is always a win, I took a wee plunge and ordered a Davies Craig water pump and accessories. I fitted it up as an auxiliary pump by the rad outlet. This took a minor amount of modding to the pipework; It maybe sits higher in the system than I would like, but it probably doesn't matter too much as long as there is coolant. It's well protected and it was pretty low impact to mount it. I got a mechanical adjustable temp switch with the kit and put that at the thermostat outlet for max sensitivity, plus I drilled a couple of 3mm holes in the thermostat to allow some flow if the pump is on and the thermostat is closed, as recommended by Davies Craig. I mounted the adjusty thing where I could access it from inside the cab, you might be able to make it out in the darkness; I have set it make the small fan and the pump come on simultaneously when the thermostat outlet gets to 50 or 60ish deg. Previously the small fan went as soon as the key was on, so this is a nice improvement. The pump means that the engine water pump is not having to work harder to push the coolant along those long pipes, I was kindof worried about that and this eases my mind. I took it into town this morning and it definitely improves the response time of the cooling, this means the big fan cycles less and for less time. This is good. I did another quick pie run at lunchtime and when I parked to up in the shed quite a lot of coolant was pissing out in the pump area, but this turned out to be just a loose hose clamp... Whew. That's all probably. 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted February 7, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 7, 2021 Righto, a quick update. I have been dailying the shit out of this, basically all is well. Coolant levels are rock solid, it doesn't drip random fluids, it handles well, it goes and sounds like a truck. It is a genuine pleasure to drive it, I hopped back into the townace on Friday and it was a disappointment. The big truck is really good in comparison. A few things have come up though. I discovered that my modified porta power crane pump was really not up to the job, mostly cos when you lifted heavy things it would piss hydraulic fluid out of its sealed orifices. So I bought this for a fiddy from matey down the road, looks way more legit, moves it way faster too. The other crane issue is that the truck leans over hard lifting heavy loads, so I bought a high lift jack that will be a useful support during lifting operations and add legitimacy to the 4x4 legend that is ThePog. Here it is tucked away under the back seat; Now we come to the main issue, that there is a bit of a clatter from the engine at 2000rpm. This is unfortunate as this is exactly the engine revs at 100km/h and it is quite noticable with no sound deadening in the cab. This could be many things but I have a strong suspicion it is injector knock/fuel ratio issues. as that is when the egt's start rising more than expected and the big fan starts cycling. The pump in there has no boost compensation so that is the root of the problem. I got a price to rebuild my spare pump with the compensator attached, this was the thick end of $1500 smackers, and it's a bit hard to hide those sort of numbers from my wife. So I managed to source a new pump, it still has the seal over the fuel screw so probably hasn't been fucked with. Theoretically this should be pretty bang on to match my setup. It also turns out it is an 11mm pump so even better. I'll get it checked first but even if it needs work it is a better base to start from. And this is the label; Id number is VE6/11F2000RNP159 I found this incredibly useful bit of info; 'Example: V E 4 / 9 F 2400 L 12 V: Distributor injection pump E: Axial piston high pressure pump or R: radial piston high pressure pump 2-6: Number of high pressure outlets 8-12: Pump plunger diameter in mm. F: Mechanical governor or E: Electric actuator mechanism or M: high pressure solenoid valve. 2400: Upper pump nominal speed (half of engine rpm) L: Counter clockwise or R: Clockwise (view toward pump drive) 12: Type code.' I'll sort that soon. That is all. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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