ThePog

ThePog builds a Dynafari - now with added name poll

Naming ThePogs Project  

64 members have voted

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    • Dynafari
      22
    • Dynasaur
      15
    • WTFari
      3
    • Mavis
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    • The Pogerator
      2
    • Dynamight
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    • Dynatroll
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6 hours ago, KKtrips said:

Most Hilux's have to stick with 31" tall tyres and give the brakes a full overhaul. Are you running Safari axles?

Yea safari everything. The later petrol Safari's have a twin pot caliper, and apparently R33 calipers are often used but need an adaptor plate etc. 

16" rims would give more potential for brakes as well.

First I probably need to make sure the bias valve is doing it's thing correctly...

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Can get a safari to pass the 5 stop test, usual easy combo is the 2 pot later caliper, slotted discs, and some really good pads. 

Pads is where most people run into trouble, they go into repco or supercheap and ask for the best pad, which usually equals the most expensive they have in stock at the time, which might still be junk .

some wilwood/other fancy name brand brake kits come with rubbish pads to keep the cost down, fail a brake test and the guy with the 250k hot rod says "what are you on about m8 it's a wilwood kit it should be fine "  

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Just now, cletus said:

Can get a safari to pass the 5 stop test, usual easy combo is the 2 pot later caliper, slotted discs, and some really good pads. 

Pads is where most people run into trouble, they go into repco or supercheap and ask for the best pad, which usually equals the most expensive they have in stock at the time, which might still be junk .

some wilwood/other fancy name brand brake kits come with rubbish pads to keep the cost down, fail a brake test and the guy with the 250k hot rod says "what are you on about m8 it's a wilwood kit it should be fine "  

Yea I have pretty much come to that conclusion from my hard out research this morning. I will investigate further this week.

I should be helped by it being slightly lighter as well/compensating me being a fat cunt.

Thanks for the input.

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Is the struggle to brake effectively and pass the test with larger wheels purely down to the extra leverage the bigger feet have over the stock brake size - rather then it being a weight or extra speed thing that upgraded trucks like this are usually having a cert test for? 

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^all those contribute to fade problems- weight makes it worse, more power makes it worse cause it can get up to speed quicker so less recovery time between stops, and bigger wheels because of the leverage as you mention, and bigger wheels are usually heavier, especially on 4wds

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Just now, yoeddynz said:

Is the struggle to brake effectively and pass the test with larger wheels purely down to the extra leverage the bigger feet have over the stock brake size - rather then it being a weight or extra speed thing that upgraded trucks like this are usually having a cert test for? 

Combination of leverage, increased weight and increased HP giving less time for the heat to disipitate between heat cycles. But I understand the extra leverage plays a massive part.

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Wonder how much heat soak will go from the hot water side to the cold water side of those pipes if you plan on running them that close together. Or are you planning on spacing them the likes of an inch apart?

 

Definitely my highlight of builds going on. Keep up the good work.

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Heat soak between pipes had been questioned on my Imp build by some worried Imper in the UK. I dont think its a big issue and neither did @NickJ because they were only just touching however I still got paranoid so spaced them apart with wedges of 3mm rubber strip (because I'm tight I think I actually used strips of old radiator hose)

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Considering the speed the water flows through when needed, I highly doubt it'll be an issue. 

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Would be more concerned with fretting between the pipes, than a small amount of heat transfer, bearing in mind that air is a very cheap effective and abundant insulator and we are not talking about a huge delta between warm water and hot water. 

Probably gained more thermal efficiency with extra pipe volume and surface area in any case. 

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1 hour ago, 64valiant said:

Wonder how much heat soak will go from the hot water side to the cold water side of those pipes if you plan on running them that close together. Or are you planning on spacing them the likes of an inch apart?

 

Definitely my highlight of builds going on. Keep up the good work.

 

Cheers man, I hope it is interesting for people, I have actually grabbed everything relevant in this thread and condensed/duplicated it on to Patrol4x4 so anyone can look. I have had quite a few people wanting details so I thought it would be easier to put it there. My mum was impressed so there.

 

Regarding the pipework, I reckon the extra surface area will more than overcome any radiant gains.

I am going to hold the pipes apart with a welded plate that will also be the mounting points, so there should not be any fretting. It is pretty tight so they will only be a few mm apart, but still.

I am really stupidly busy with work at the moment, and unfortunately it means i am too drained by the end of the day to get really serious about doing anything. There should be some significant progress this weekend though, assuming not too many distractions.

And amusingly after my enthusiasm and excitement it looks like I fucked up buying those calipers, I fiddled around a bit last night and the mounting holes are different. I will probably keep them for a bit just in case I need to adapt them somehow, but my now extensive internet searching has shown me where i went wrong and what to do to sort it.

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1 hour ago, ThePog said:

And amusingly after my enthusiasm and excitement it looks like I fucked up buying those calipers, I fiddled around a bit last night and the mounting holes are different. I will probably keep them for a bit just in case I need to adapt them somehow, but my now extensive internet searching has shown me where i went wrong and what to do to sort it.

Would you mind elaborating some more on this? After reading this last page, I am coming to the realisation that I am likely screwed for the brake test, as I have just the singles up front and with the RB25DET I will likely get up to speed fairly quickly. So I was thinking I may need to get some twin piston fronts, but if these won't work then I may need to do some excessive research of my own.

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My Safari failed initially, still with factory single pot fronts.

I fitted better pads, I think they were bendix "4wd"? It's going back a bit.

Also I did a bunch of testing with getting the rear brakes to work correctly with a bracket I'd made to lift up the arm to match the suspension lift.

Pretty sure I also put in some 600 degree boiling point brake fluid.

A few years later they felt terrible, tracked it down to a leaking clutch boost and failing vacuum pump. Blocked off clutch booster and fitted new alternator/vacuum pump and it's really good again.

That was cert'd on 33's and it's pretty good. Would probably need more of an upgrade when I put on 35's.

 

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35 minutes ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Would you mind elaborating some more on this? After reading this last page, I am coming to the realisation that I am likely screwed for the brake test, as I have just the singles up front and with the RB25DET I will likely get up to speed fairly quickly. So I was thinking I may need to get some twin piston fronts, but if these won't work then I may need to do some excessive research of my own.

Righto, this is pretty much what I know now, although I still may be wrong..

Y60;

All brakes are interchangeable in this series, mount bolt holes are 135mm apart.

Rotors on single pot are 296mm diameter/20mm thick.

The injected petrol TB42E/Ti have twin pot calipers that will bolt in.

Rotors on 2 pots are 305mm diameter/27mm thick. Way better venting.

This is the easiest upgrade although hard to come by.

 

Y61;

Loads more with twin pots, not limited to the petrol ones, but the mount holes are further apart and wont go on the Y60. You cant swap the knuckles either. You can swap the whole axle, however the axles are much wider so you need the rear as well.

Rotor sizes are all over the place, they should be 305mm/27 OR 34mm but the truck i got those off were 27mm 295 according to the wreckers. He might have been wrong, SAS parts said the rotor size for that chassis is 305mm.

If you want to go hard fit the whole axle from a TB48 petrol, these have 316mm/36mm rotors.

There is a kit to fit 4 pots off a R33 turbo skyline, this is expensive.

The good rotors are DBA T2 out of Oz, they also do pads called XP that work good apparently. Next choice is EBC Greenstuff.

Thats all I know right now.

 

Edit; all the Y60 options appear to fit under 15"s, anything else needs 16"s

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Make sure all your cooling system components are well earthed to prevent stray current traveling through the coolant, and keep the antifreeze in the best condition you can.

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Just now, Yowzer said:

Make sure all your cooling system components are well earthed to prevent stray current traveling through the coolant, and keep the antifreeze in the best condition you can.

Right, I didn't know that was a thing. What happens to the coolant?

I have bolted all the pipes to the chassis so this should be fine.

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