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Toms 89 Mk2 Golf


vwthomas

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I bought Rolf (the golf) as my first car back in 2007 when I was 15 from a family friend. It had a damaged water pump and a broken radiator, and no oil in it. I found a water pump and a Haynes Manual on trademe and set to work, turns out the radiator was fine and no damage had been done to the engine due to the lack of oil. Its an awesome first car i drove it to and from school and university for a fair while on its standard 8 valve. Im filtering through all the previous build threads i made to try and create a bit of a timeline. This was always a learning experience and looking back on it some of the things I did I look back now and am a little concerned with. In saying that Ill probably do the same thing in 10 years time as well.

2010 (2l 16v swap)

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$500 engine with bent valves was all i could find but at the time it was a good excuse to learn how to rebuild the head.

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Head cleaned up very nicely with a bit of a diy parts cleaning bin and some elbow grease.

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A fresh selection of parts from the UK, i struggled to find new valves anywhere else.

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The old 8v lump removed, made for a good paper weight. Took me so long to get this out maybe a couple of days. Having had the new engine in and out a couple of times now for clutch replacement etc, i reckon i could do a full removal in a couple of hours.

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Struggled with breaking the cam gear, could not figure out why the engine would not turn over and then the cam gear would snap its tooth off. Turned out to be bent cams, which set me back a long time cause trying to find another set was proving a mission.

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Found some new Cams in the end and it all went back together nicely.

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2011 (2l 16v swap)

Engine and gearbox installed and the car back on its wheels.

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Mega squirt setup, despite this not being my final solution i was really happy i had a crack at this. Really taught me that all wiring looks horribly daunting before you start but after going through and labeling and sorting out each little bit step by step its nothing a good system cant fix 

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There was a nice useful pin out so i actually made the megasquirt loom just connect directly to the existing factory loom for easy removal.

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This might be a little bit of a hack job but i needed the O ring on the MAP sensor to sit nicely and one of the best spots I could find to use without to much work was directly into the intercooler. So armed with a stepper drill bit and a set of taps I managed to make something work.

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Fortunately it only required 3 washers either side to space the sensor nicely so that the o ring seated. Ideally i would have made a new aluminum part with the CNC and welded it on but I didn't really have the time and the skills for the aluminum welding so this was a nice simple solution.

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I installed a larger Brake MC for more brake feel as the standard one was so soft and you had to do a lot of work to make something happen. Ideally I would like this car to be able to be taken on track days and drag meets (drive ability is pretty key/vital as this is not some show car) so I need some effectiveness from the brakes. Also spent a lot of time position the electric throttle pedal for a good heel toe operation.

I had spent a lot of time trying to make this Clutch MC work (its from a Pajero) as people spend a lot of money getting a specific pedal box just to make it work and getting one hard enough let alone paying for it to get to New Zealand. I was convinced that armed with a brake line flaring kit and a bit of thinking I could make something that would be effective. In hindsight this was really not the case and after a bit of research and failing miserably I found that i actually needed to do a lot more bench testing. I think that i mounted the MC inline with the pivot point of the pedal making the clutch have a incredibly light feel, it seemed to function but did not feel anything like how a clutch should. I also think I needed to spend a lot more time researching throw/movement lenghts of the MC vs the Slave.

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It might post something in a technical thread as i really would like to know what to do next time but I ended up buying a bolt on solution for the time being. (above picture is not it this is my pajero mc with a spacer made with the CNC at work.

Meanwhile that fail was going on I was atleast able to work on my welding skills. If i can say anything as i come further through this project is that my mig welding is getting so much better even just with the flux core. This is a little brake line bracket i made and tapped with two pieces folded and welded together.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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So time for a bit of a test fit. Im using all existing mounts from the mk2 which worked but the brake MC touched the Cam cover and although im sure it wouldn't move to much i really wanted to be sure so i went to the wreckers and got a mk3 subframe (uses one mount that is slightly different) but still a direct bolt up.

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I don't have any great photos of it maybe because I was too excited but managed to track down a K04 turbo out of an Audi S3 so here we are shooting for a hopefully very drive able 260hp worth of fun.

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Some 550cc injectors and a 4 bar FPR to keep up the fuel. Have also fitted a mk3 fuel tank and pump which should be sufficient for the power being made.

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With the engine in place I was able to get an idea of the down pipe situation. The previous turbo would have run the exhaust gas straight out and down towards the tunnel. The new one runs it straight towards the drivers side shock tower. So i really needed a sharp 180 bend to turn away from the shock tower and engine mount. Excuse my crappy Tig welding, pretty new to it all so just having a go.

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There is also a reducer from 3 inch to 2.5 and then a Vband for easy repairs/engine removal. All painted wrapped and good to go!

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With the engine and Intercooler in place we were able to make a plan with how the boost piping would be run. Trying the keep everything as cheap as possible we used a couple old silicon pieces we had lying around as well as shooting across town to the mount shop to get the last little bits and pieces. A lovely guy whos name eludes me offered to help for a box of beers was able to help weld some bungs on for my diverter valve as i had no hope in hell of welding alloy.

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This is a little in the past but I should show some of the wiring as this was more than likely the most time consuming part of the project because 18 year old me just and spliced into anything i needed during the first swap. So armed with alot more knowledge and the biggest set of crimpers one could ever need we set to work rewire a fair amount of the car. The battery was relocated in the boot and we used 4m of welding wiring to link for the front to the rear.

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Running a jaycar breaker from the starter where the main power is run too, then to inside the car to run the ecu and fusebox power. I do like having the ability to switch the power off and on to the ECU/car as the vw ECU seems to always be awake. Will possibly 3D print some plastic pieces to cover the positive powers so nothing can short out to easily.

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  • 1 month later...

So the car was running, not good (needed a tune to manage those big ass injectors) but was back to fixing and problem solving. I never knew how brilliant having some sheet metal and a weldering was, bit of Pajero bonnet and utilising some cardboard aided design I managed to make a catch can holder7FD8126F-5098-4448-83D2-E7C88B429B8C.thumb.jpeg.5a080ac5d043abbd6e03a2b5d34dedaf.jpeg

added some textured paint and installed. It still needs the return to the intake for cert but for now it’s just breathing to atmosphere.

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Also my first radiator was leaking and it was from a mk1 so I had to try and source a new one. Turned out to be difficult but I got one similar because we had already raided partsmasters rad hoses and have it all positioned perfectly.

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So the car was running but the clutch felt horrible trying to get it in and out of the driveway, combine with a bunch of mods that hadn’t really been accounted for in any sort of tune the car was not drive able. I was pretty frustrated to say the least so I bit the bullet and ordered a kit online that is designed to mount a van style clutch Mc under the dash.

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I never really took any photos of it installed but it ran for a little (a couple laps of the block) then when I tried to bleed it some more the mc blew a seal, I ordered a new one but either it was different or possibly a  different brand I have managed to make it work but it was binding up near the far end of the pedal travel so I put a stop in. As currently this is working but I’m tempted to fiddle with this again at a later date.

Anyhow I needed to stop annoying the neighbors and I bought all the stuff to make an exhaust so long ago so I set to work. 

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Car was closer to driveable, clutch feels great apart from it doesn’t go all the way to the floor but the tune was a bit of an issue the car would surge a bit from 3 - 4K rpm. Got a friend to log it as I drove around the block, did a little pull and lost power he said I was making 18psi then nothing almost like the map sensor had blown. Got back to the driveway thinking the worst, turns out I’m just a muppets and couldn’t do a hose clamp up tight enough.

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With this done we were able to send some of the logs off to some people overseas who did some wizardry and came back with the first solid tune that I am running and the car drives awesome!

 

After this I did some of the usual spanner checks as well as changing the gearbox oil and checking fluids.

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  • 1 month later...

Still having issues refining the clutch but I took the dash out and removed the pedal box completely so I could sort things out such as master cyclinder binding up. Aswell as my quickly engineered clutch switch I did the first time was a pretty flexible bolt on option which put a lot of strain on the switch itself. So with the pedal box out I was able to weld my little bracke in place.2FA19D21-D5FE-4D13-AA43-78A5549B0B36.thumb.jpeg.aaceab59da2199b57ee525772b2d2dc3.jpeg

Went drag racing again on cheap street tires, Got a new pb of 14.3 I had a bit of issue trying to shift quickly so thinking I might need to get a rebuild kit for my shift tower but had a bunch of fun.

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As we got to the drags my window fell straight to bottom of the door which was a bit of a pain, had to cable tie it in place so I could race for the day but fortunately I had a old regulator so just swapped it over a couple days later.

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