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AW11 MR2 with thin flywheel

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Hey. Ive installed a thin and lightweight flywheel in my MR2. Its definitely a 4AGE flywheel, but is about 10mm thinner than the factory unit. Ive bolted it up and throw the gearbox on my turbo engine and bolted the whole thing in, but upon bleeding my clutch lines I find that the slave cylinder actuator rod is not engaging the clutch at all. There is slop in the clutch fork - I can push it forward until it finally makes contact with the clutch, and at that point there is a 10mm gap between the fork and the rod.

Obviously I could take the engine/gearbox out again and throw on a factory flywheel, but there has to be a way to get this working.

Any ideas, gents?

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The correct way to do this is to space the pivot out toward the flywheel. Lengthening the rod is going to put the release fork on a gross angle and most likely affect the pedal engagement window.

I had to do this when i put the chromoly flywheel into my hillclimb civic.

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^ as above - I'd only lengthen the slave rod if it was a small amount.  you should be able to space out the pivot point thing enough for the 10mm, and if not, then do both.

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Thanks guys. I made various lengths of rod out of old head bolts - some improved the feel, and I actually got it into reverse, but I could feel the car wanting to roll backwards when letting off the brake, so it's almost there, but not quite. Doesn't want to go into any forward gear at all.

Going to have to adjust the pivot, space it out. That requires dropping the gearbox, which really sucks.

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Keep in mind you won't need to space the pivot out the whole 10mm due to the lever ratio. You may only need 3 or 4mm.

 

Measure a reference on the lever / gearbox housing and Mark it, also Mark the max retracted point on the slave cylinder these 2 marks give you the window you need to space it to.

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yeah def trick for young players on any gearbox with non factory clutch flywheel setup. concentric slave cylinders maybe more forgiving? although im sure there will be a travel limit there too.

 

basically best to setup and test before fitting engine and gearbox to car if at all possible.

/lingpost

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And for the love of baby jesus don’t end up pushing it too far and bend the little fingers 

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13 hours ago, Testament said:

yeah def trick for young players on any gearbox with non factory clutch flywheel setup. concentric slave cylinders maybe more forgiving? although im sure there will be a travel limit there too.

/lingpost

I have been down the concentric slave rabbit hole in the mx5 with its unconventional clutch setup - mitsubishi engine, GTR clutch and flywheel, corolla ring gear and 370z gearbox. This is a mission,  even more so when the gearbox doesn't have a removable bell housing.

Would not trade again.

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10 hours ago, sentra said:

And for the love of baby jesus don’t end up pushing it too far and bend the little fingers 

Disengament point can be a little tricky to get spot on... you can remedy by choosing a different slave/ master combo, or in my case I just made adjustable pedal stops for the civic as the new clutch needed much less total travel. Works mint and will change gear as fast as I can even at 8500 rpm. 

 

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Ended up solving it by ditching the vacuum bleeder and using the pedal to create pressure instead. No more air bubbles, now goes into gear. Still using the longer slave rod, though. I know the best solution will be to space out the pivot, but tbh I would rather avoid taking the gearbox off! Another day.

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