Kimjon

POR15 full of shit!

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its isocyanate stuff as bad as 2 part epoxy stuff. I did by jeep interior floor inside ages ago even outside with all the windows open and brushing it on I was not entirely well for a few days after from having my head too close to the stuff when painting. would def use respirator if its anything where you are less than arms length from it while putting it on

the metal ready prep stuff is great though. I have put than on bare steel and nearly 10 years on inside garage with no paint its still fine.

for single pack ive had much better experience with Wattyl killrust. just takes a while to set is all. prepped with metal ready then brushed on jeep bumper only rust is where I have scratched through the paint and even that is naff all on something that gets scratched on all the things in the bush.

I think brunox gets mentioned as another decent one for when you need to paint things in non ideal situations with a single pack. I have some but haven't used it yet.

but when you can 2 pack is definitely the way. once you understand the process and buy one of those 3m respirators it is way better sprayed or brushed on.

durepox black primer for everything now.

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Kephos is just xylene and phosphoric acid.  Xylene is a high end solvent that fucks off while you wait. Breathing it after its evaporated makes you feel not so good Brian.

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Brunox is garbage also.

You prep steel with mechanical abrasion of some kind until it’s white, or acid wash it if it’s pitted and can’t be blasted/sanded, then steel wool scrub and clean it. Two part epoxy primer brushed or sprayed and that is pretty much it, we keep going over this every other month. Epoxy primer doesn’t have any where near as much of the death cyanide like urethane it’s much safer to spray in that regard. 

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7 minutes ago, Spencer said:

Brunox is garbage also.

You prep steel with mechanical abrasion of some kind until it’s white, or acid wash it if it’s pitted and can’t be blasted/sanded, then steel wool scrub and clean it. Two part epoxy primer brushed or sprayed and that is pretty much it, we keep going over this every other month. Epoxy primer doesn’t have any where near as much of the death cyanide like urethane it’s much safer to spray in that regard. 

Would you still use epoxy primer if you wanted to paint an enclosed area that is very difficult to surface prep? Eg: The inside of the front guards on a Triumph 2000 are only accessible via the headlight hole, there is some light surface rust. I want to get something down in the join between the inner guard and the wheel arch to seal it...

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I have come across similar areas on my project car. I am leaning towards doing nothing with such areas, they have lasted 35 years with nothing more than surface rust. My thought was that sealing any seams near it, could end up trapping moisture. Especially if you can't prep it 100% legit. Right or wrong, doing nothing works for me, I have enough proper rust problems to sort.

Tempted to Amazon source a full face 3m mask for relatively not much, for all paint chobs. Still need to get around to sourcing the epoxy primer too and some colour matched spray cans.

edit- not as cheap as I thought after all, half mask might have to do.

 

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3 minutes ago, Bling said:

I have come across similar areas on my project car. I am leaning towards doing nothing with such areas, they have lasted 35 years with nothing more than surface rust. My thought was that sealing any seams near it, could end up trapping moisture. Especially if you can't prep it 100% legit. Right or wrong, doing nothing works for me, I have enough proper rust problems to sort.

Tempted to Amazon source a full face 3m mask for relatively not much, for all paint chobs. Still need to get around to sourcing the epoxy primer too and some colour matched spray cans.

The triumph rusts quite badly around the front arches. At least my other shell is really bad there. I wanted to just brush something into the join to seal the metal(which is probably rusty), not really seal the seam. I suppose I'll just paint the areas I can prep and flood the rest with a waxoil/fishoil product.

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If you can’t open it up and do things properly you are best off with a wax product over any kind of paint that won’t stick.

Bling a face mask and googles works fine, fogs up but works. If you spray outside with epoxy you are safe as fuck, honestly it’s the urethane and especially the clear that will murder you through your skin and eyes.

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My tractor hood is bare steel painted with penetrol and it's held up very well for months (MTBE close to 6?)outside in the elements! 

My tractor guards are bare metal painted in penetrol and look perfect as been kept in garage ( a damp garage)

Penetrol is thinner than water and wicks through dirt, rust and seams unbelievably well.. i think thats far better than any sort of thicker product that just sits on top.

Also.. its cheap and available from bunnings.

 

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That looks very similar to penetrol which also calls itself a paint conditioning oil. Edit. Yep extremely similar. I wonder which ones better

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Just been threw the whole por15  thing.

just did my datto rails & K frame and spent a lot of time looking at the right thing to use ended up with PA10 (international) though the mix is not as good as it use to be apparently you know back in the old days..

you don't paint it on rust if you can help it. It's only as good as the prep work. It has slight acid content this aids the etching into the steel to hold it I don't think it's a rust kill per say. 

 

 

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what was that rust converter stuff? or is that snake oil too

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Rust converter is trash for anything other than maybe the absolute lightest of rust (any specs left after cleaning it all off).

My cousin (panel beater) told me  it was shit and that id have fresh rust under a panel i had used it on (and which had only sat in my garage).

Cleaned it off and aure enough.. whole thing was rusty. From memory i think it had crrated more surface rust than jt had fixed

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Pics of the rust you put it on, expecting it to "convert"?

 

I put some Metal Ready on this the other day as a test. ~10-15 minutes of letting it sit wet and 99.9% of the rust is gone. Success is going to be limited if the panel is rust fucked. Yeah it's only surface rust, but it also provides an etch on the metal, so shouldn't have a problem if top coated. Lighting is bad, it is clean other than a couple of tiny dots of dust left.

I also treated all of my panel beating dollies and hammers as some had a bit of surface rust, good as new.

 

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I think a lot of it is down to the concentration of the converter. Most of the DIY super cheap stuff is 50 % phosphoric. Don't rate it. 

media blasting is the go.. 

But I have been using a higher strength phosphoric and a buffing wheel on rotation. eventually you get there. Then straight on when its dry with my be loved PA10 

I have no idea on panel steel but this is chassis. 

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I don't mind using rust converter on super cunty areas. Getting it as clean as poss and giving it too coats. Followed by two coats of brush on Body sealer.  Has to be better than doing nothing. And creates a waterproof barrier between the steel and any moisture. 

I saw a ute chassis that had been done in rust converter. It lasted close to ten years outside, with only a shit tarp partly covering it.

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When you guys say rust converter- do you mean the milky white paint stuff that turns the surface of rust black/ purple

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