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Bling's AE70 Hardtop - Discussion


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Not sure on the guard deal, or if it's just doors different?

As for how many limes, probably impossible to know. Probably didn't make it onto registration papers. I wouldn't think there would be that many though. Doesn't seem to be that many hardtops floating around to begin with. Will be doing my best to keep all the decals intact. I may have a plate for it hanging on the wall along that theme.

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  • 3 months later...

Your shrinker stretcher. What make is it. Do you find that sometimes the shrinker jaws won't 'grab' the steel enough to shrink. I've cleaned the little ridges on my set of shrinker jaws but I think they might be worn. Sometimes it takes several attempts to get them to grab the steel. 

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14 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

Your shrinker stretcher. What make is it. Do you find that sometimes the shrinker jaws won't 'grab' the steel enough to shrink. I've cleaned the little ridges on my set of shrinker jaws but I think they might be worn. Sometimes it takes several attempts to get them to grab the steel. 

 

I've heard of people re-stippling some types of jaws. 

I've got a Lancaster shrinker that is still OK (I don't use it a huge amount), but they can apparently be re-done as well, e.g.

https://www.tinmantech.com/products/forming-machines/shrinker-stretchers/lancaster-shrinker-stretchers/lancaster-shrinker-stretcher-modified-jaws.php

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29 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

Your shrinker stretcher. What make is it. Do you find that sometimes the shrinker jaws won't 'grab' the steel enough to shrink. 

It's a no brand copy, probably off TradeMe from someone like topmaq. Have had it a few years now. Haven't used it a HUGE amount, so the jaws are still pretty good. No issues so far with them grabbing the steel.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Yeah no tyres and also need to finish polishing them. Will hopefully remedy that soon enough though. Then after lock down I can order tyres. Yeah it's a pretty cool shape for sure, certainly not one you see around.

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Yeah that's a good idea, will look into that once it's all back together. As i'm not sure of final position so i'll likely need to tweak them. It only holds a small front factory lip in place, so no weight to support really.

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  • 6 months later...

More brittle, prone to sheer than 8.8 / 10.9's. That was the gist I got from the people I spoke to. I was informed that they would probably be fine in my application. But given what the manual says and that I want the wheels and brakes staying put, it was a no brainer to just replace them. Will repurpose the other bolts in other locations. Probably 12.9's installed in modified cars everywhere with zero issue. But from what I read, that's just not something I want, whether it can get signed off or not. Mostly 10.9's now with nord-lock washers so shouldn't be a problem.

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You'll be perfectly fine running 10.9/8.8, that's what Toyota did back in the day.

Anywho:

As far as I am aware the shear strength is essentially related to the tensile strength -> more tensile gives more shear (shear strength is usually around 55% of tensile) - if anyone can find proof that 12.9 has lower shear strength than 10.9 I'd happily accept it

As stated in that pdf, fatigue behavior is the same between 12.9 and 10.9

Strain at failure for 10.9 is about 9% and for 12.9 is about 8%, so the 12.9 really isn't any more brittle

I guess the hydrogen embrittlement issue could actually be a problem if the bolt is used on an 80's Toyota or mid 2000's Ford due to all the corrosion taking place.

 

Do you have a screenshot of the relevant CCM chapter that states bolt strengths? From what I could see in the LVVTA Standards they just specify the minimum allowable bolt strength and don't say no to 12.9 - they also explicitly state that Nyloc is fine (minimum 2 threads protruding from nut) unless somewhere that gets hot like engine components of brakes.

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One really really good reason I can think of to not use 12.9 bolts would be that they are stronger than the component you are threading them into most of the time. So if you do them up to the recommended 12.9 torque settings you could strip out your engine block or brake caliper etc

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