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max's bj


MaxPower

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Picked up this beast from north of auckland. was a bit dodgy had no trailer lights, tow ute had no wof, no reg, kays out, speedo had (coughs) stopped working, and had to pick up my wife from the airport at 5am with this heap in tow. she's not too happy been gone 5 weeks and come home with 3 extra cars outside and the carport in a state.

On the plus side it runs and has all the parts missing or broken on mine. Has new tyres too.

npwrltbg.ijt.jpg

 

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Lift 'kit' turned up 25 days later. Also scored some larger 4 piston 80 series callipers from my father in law and pinched some trailer stubs off him for a future spare tyre swing.

might whip the bottom leaf out of the rear leafs as it is going to get caught up on shit, front leafs appear to be same size as the ones i pulled out? also i think the front leafs had been installed wrong way around by the previous owner? anyone know which way the wrap faces? put the wrap to the front, gave me more wheelbase and moved the tyre away from the exhaust. haven't checked if anything is rubbing yet. 

rt5ycmmy.fwr.jpg

 

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My wife has lost her shit at how high this thing sits now she's not that tall but I'm 6 4" I'm thinking I should have only put a 1" body lift in there, what do you guys think?

mv5bipzk.p4f.jpg

Its very easy to work under now though, no struggling to jam a jack under there somewhere.

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Must've been lols pulling up outside the international terminal in your multiply illegal landcruiser road train, good shit.

Re height, I reckon drive it for a while and see how you like it. 35s + 2.5" lift springs + 2" body lift is prolly a good place to be I reckon, should be well capable and definitely shouldn't be too scary on the road (even if missus still has to jump) 

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The springs should settle a bit. 

The second leaf wrap goes at the front. But I think you figured it out. 

I put my own back Windows in with a bit of rope, let me know if you need pointers.

Monster trucks!

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Have found that the handbrake cable is fairly tight from lifting the body, will look into getting a new one made, can't seem to find a way to make it work nicely. have extended 3 fuel lines, been ignoring the gear shifter boots and winch lever for now, they will need tweaking. like to look into removing the load sensing proportioning valve attached to the rear diff but not sure if I should?. would like to eventually run rear disc brakes if possible so won't be needing it then I think. moved the radiator down 50mm, will require some angle sheet to cover up the gaps this has created. another issue is the sway bar is now ballsed up from the new leafs, am looking into making some sway bar disconnects if i can use a mates lathe. Only have two patches left to weld in on the roof, need to sell some more shit to get the windscreen put in after I paint the roof.

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42 minutes ago, MaxPower said:

yes I only need a few bits off of it. Its a bj70 3b diesel. luxurys include back seat heater unit, air con. 

Front disc(s), calipers potentially hub and studs. Have an idea on what you would want for those? Obviously freight will be a cunt but we'll figure something out. 

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2 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Front disc(s), calipers potentially hub and studs. Have an idea on what you would want for those? Obviously freight will be a cunt but we'll figure something out. 

theres a guy down your way who is wreaking quite a few of these on trademe, would it not be better to go through him? Im terrible at making a price for things, plus he should really upgrade to 80 series callipers as they bolt on and are bigger. would like to keep the hubs and stubs sorry.

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5 hours ago, tortron said:

quite like that! tenants just trashed our house big time so funds are unfortunately going to have to be moved into that drama for a few weeks. if its still up in a few weeks I might grab it.

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does anyone know what trailer hubs are made of for certain? are they cast iron, cast steel? have turned down a n.o.s trojan hub for a spare wheel holder hinge which will mount up on my rear bumper . have seen one done before guess it should take a bit of weight with some good welding. turned it down with an angle grinder worked really well as i don't have a lathe. Looking out for some heavy 4x2 box and heavy 2x2 to glue up a rear bumper as the rear chassis rail looks weak as. 

1rumggl1.ec3.jpg

jbfair3s.bur.jpg

got the 80 series callipers apart, getting them blasted this week, brought a seal kit for them too. also came across a 80 series steering box apparently they are a good upgrade but can't find out why?

finished welding up the roof today came up better than i thought it would. 

 

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My rear chassis xmember has actually been replaced with box section of the same size and has gussets that look like the original. Very professionally done actually. 

The factory ones tend to bow after many good pulls on the centre mount

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1 hour ago, MaxPower said:

does anyone know what trailer hubs are made of for certain? are they cast iron, cast steel? have turned down a n.o.s trojan hub for a spare wheel holder hinge which will mount up on my rear bumper . have seen one done before guess it should take a bit of weight with some good welding. turned it down with an angle grinder worked really well as i don't have a lathe. Looking out for some heavy 4x2 box and heavy 2x2 to glue up a rear bumper as the rear chassis rail looks weak as. 

1rumggl1.ec3.jpg

jbfair3s.bur.jpg

got the 80 series callipers apart, getting them blasted this week, brought a seal kit for them too. also came across a 80 series steering box apparently they are a good upgrade but can't find out why?

finished welding up the roof today came up better than i thought it would. 

 

What's yer plan with the trailer hub? Prolly being daft but how do you mount a spare wheel on that? 

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