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MaxPower

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Looking good man, did you take it for a scrape around the block? 

Reckon 1" body lift and new 2" springs will clear the 35s? My mate had a sprung over 70 running 37s, unfamiliar with what it takes sprung under though

 

 

convoyio7.jpg

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from what the internet says it should all be fine with 1" body lift, 2" springs and I will move the diff forward 1" too. hope it works! nah haven't driven it incase I fuck something, 37's must be tough on the drive train.

 

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4 minutes ago, Mof said:

He also just said trim a little off the bottom of the fan shroud as it will hit the fan, and the transfer lever may need "adjusting". You might not have that problem with only 1"

cheers mof, would like to stay away from mucking around with shackles, with the fan shroud i was hoping i could just re-drill the shroud holes an inch higher\lower, dunno. the guy who sent me the blocks sent the wrong kit in the first place so have a 2" body lift kit here if i really need it but wouldn't like to. did your mate move his front diff forward? haven't looked at the transfer lever or fuel filler hose etc yet.

does anyone have some mags the same as my rear ones for sale? they are different to the fronts. brand is enkei, think they are a 3 piece size is 15" x 9" 

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My old 60 series (green truck in pic above) had longer shackles, was scary to drive at first with constant micro steering adjustment to counter the wandering steering but once I shimmed the diff to rotate the axle back to normal (ie fix the castor), it drove mint. 

I also had a 2" body lift, I reckon its a good way to lift actually as you're not lifting the center of gravity as much as lifting the entire chassis like you are with springs. You don't get the articulation benefits but getting the biggest tyres you can with the smallest change in centre of gravity is the win, as clearance under the diff counts for more than chassis clearance in my book

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I would also go 2" if you have the chance to. 

Also as well as the fuel filler, if you don't already know, the steering shaft needs to extend (I'm not familiar with your setup as to exactly how) and there will be brake lines between body and chassis probably right rear of engine bay. 

If you're lifting the body with a Jack I'd suggest you do one side at a time, but leave the bolts in the other side loosely so the body doesn't wander off. 

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so i put the 2" blocks in instead. 

before

4xh352l5.tru.jpg

after

ozysz4ck.aks.jpg

i just don't like the look of all those beat up surfs you see around with big body lifts and small worn out mud tyres, thats my reason for not liking body lifts etc, the pto lever or hole will need modding, rounded off a bolt because i was being lazy, everything else seems fine brake lines and stuff, the fuel tank is mounted to the body so didn't have to do anything there. am going to work on the exhaust some more today

ncs21uwt.j40.jpg

father in law sells 4wd camper trailers and roof top tents etc, he would like to whack on a roof tent for a show in taupo in september so need to get shit done. 

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bit de motivated today, car has rust around the drivers side roof, cut it open some more and found this shit

0txzt1vb.g0e.jpg

32yh2u15.ncz.jpg

so i guess i can kill what i can see and weld some patches, find a rust free roof (unlikely) or take it to a panel beater. i find it hard to pay other people to do work though cause I'm a tight arse. any ideas?

been looking at getting a bigger booster for it too as the brakes were shite before i put the bigger tyres on, guess they will be worse now. does anyone know the differences between a full floating rear axle and a semi? from what i have read the semis have a diff cover to access the 'c' clips to remove the axles and the FF diffs have no cover? 

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Wow that sucks re the rust man, hopefully some gurus on this site can recommend something there... 

Re the semi versus full float diffs, I believe the cruiser semi floats use a c-clip design to retain the axle though I have never worked on a semi float. As per comments via PM the way to tell what you have (semi versus full float at least) is if yer hubs protrude out from the mounting face of the wheel = full float. 

 

Re brakes there are some good bolt on caliper upgrades you can do, I forget what I had on my 60-series but think they were from V6 surf, and I believe the big Sumitomo (eg Celsior) brakes also were a straight bolt-on. Google to check as some years have passed since I did mine, made a noticeable difference with 35s (and EFI Chev 350) on big heavy 60 series though... 

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sweet have just started patching up the roof, will fish oil the shit out of it after I paint the roof, I always seem to stall my projects when i find rust, this time I'm just going to use the vehicle, keep it dry, and look at doing a proper job later on (yeah right..) 

good that I've got full floaters i guess, kp i will be picking up the spares truck in probably 2 or 3 weeks at the most away.

wouldn't mind knowing a bit more about a brake upgrade. disc rear would be choice too but man parts are expensive on cruisers , not like the mitsis I'm used to. 

the exhaust flexi i brought is too long so have ordered a stubby one.

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11 minutes ago, MaxPower said:

sweet have just started patching up the roof, will fish oil the shit out of it after I paint the roof, I always seem to stall my projects when i find rust, this time I'm just going to use the vehicle, keep it dry, and look at doing a proper job later on (yeah right..) 

 

Just patch it and make it look better later when you get sick of it

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Yeap full float, looking badass with the new tyres btw. 

For brakes I just dredged my email and for calipers I used KZN130 ones and the standard 60-series rotors, easy mod as they are a straight swap and should be same for yours (40/60/70 series stuff is all mostly interchangeable). I left the rear with drums, recall there were relatively easy disc upgrades but the new calipers alone made a decent difference so I left it there. 

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1 hour ago, KP_wag said:

Yeap full float, looking badass with the new tyres btw. 

For brakes I just dredged my email and for calipers I used KZN130 ones and the standard 60-series rotors, easy mod as they are a straight swap and should be same for yours (40/60/70 series stuff is all mostly interchangeable). I left the rear with drums, recall there were relatively easy disc upgrades but the new calipers alone made a decent difference so I left it there. 

cool as my father in law has some early 90's 80 series callipers and discs he said i could have, will take a look at them and see if they are betterer. have also asked someone on trademe for a price for a 80 series non abs booster. new to toyotas so still learning the lego

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24 minutes ago, johnnyfive said:

Ring up Toyota and try price a roof skin. I was surprised to be able to get one for my LN106 for like $500 if memory serves correct. 

Should really attach that sometime.

Sick project BTW

sweet as will ask a fella from the toyota dealership tomorrow, he's been good to deal with, not the usual whats the number plate deal. yeah I'm happy with it, carport is a state at the mo haha

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finished glueing up the exhaust, bit ruff with the ss arc rods but hey thats what i have and no leaks so far. painted it up fitted it, last thing is to weld some mounts on. sounds nice and quiet at idle happy as with the muffler.

heres some crappy pics.

3utowt03.qag.jpg

wpfrtgsa.q4d.jpg

px5aho2d.weo.jpg

am off to whangaparoa tomorrow to pick up a rusty truck for spares. not looking forward to going to auckland. lift kit has taken almost 30 days to arrive still not here yet.

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