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Raizer is losing the plot with Scooters!


Raizer

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Checked the timing, was about 23°, played with it between 22° to 28° BTDC, no change to the noise at all.

Have left it set to 24°, should back it off to 26° or so as I confirmed the CDI does in fact have an advance curve built in (a LOT of cheaper ones don't).
I'm impressed by the ToolPRO timing light so far, 99% sure they are a re-badged Innova 5568   *Halve the RPM numbers, it doesn't go below 2 cylinder in 2t mode*   

 

So now I'm back at square one with the noise, screwdriver stethoscope says it is in the top end but I'm running out of ideas! 

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5 hours ago, 00quattro00 said:

Try out a thick gasket to rule out it tapping the head/plug? 

Top of this page, I tried a .9 alloy gasket and measured .8mm squish clearance with the engine hot.

 

Edit: I'm back to being highly suspicious of it being the big end bearing, been watching a pile of videos on YouTube of dirt bikes etc with fucked big end bearings and yeah sounds very familiar.

Rod side play measures up fine, but it's easily possible that the needles in the bearing are pitted or flat spotted, also since it tried to seize a couple more times yet there's no signs of that on the piston I'm thinking the bearing has been trying to lock up solid at high RPM.

Guessing it's the bad clutch sound Sparkle warned me about lol!

 

Hopefully @MopedNZ can track down a rod kit in NZ, otherwise I'm looking at either a genuine rod and crank pin from Japan + thrust washers from the UK. Or a full Long brand after market kit from the UK.

 

Really can't be fucked rebuilding this thing yet again (or afford to tbh), but hopefully can get it all done and actually get to ride the fucking thing this summer!!

 

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On 09/10/2020 at 18:48, Raizer said:

Hopefully @MopedNZ can track down a rod kit in NZ

Fucking GC!!

121231396_678856749705799_7515399715215232646_n.jpg.82d0bf875a7e58b5241275edbe16172a.jpg

IMG_20201014_173601.jpg.c95841f8189abeb3bf0fb4b3c458148b.jpg

IMG_20201014_173607.jpg.22ace008838f052bc7b8761b8272d98d.jpg

 

Was pretty much set on doing the rod change myself, have access to a big press, lathe and dial indicators etc and know how to do it, just don't really have the confidence that I'll be able to get the run out down to 0.05mm!
@MopedNZ highly recommend Tauranga Motor Machining so I gave them a call and with the quote I got, there is no point in me making press plates and everything else I'd have needed to make to attempt it, so if time/motivation allows I'll pull the engine out and get the crank up to them in the near future.

 

Not really much of an update, more of a thanks Callum!!

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After a fucking mega struggle pulling the carb off/out of it's oring retained hole, I dropped the engine again, then stripped the engine again.

One thing that had been bugging me since I first built it was the crank web blocking 3-4mm of the intake port

IMG_20201015_230123.jpg.0d3743ee64e53c39f72b4a428eadcb80.jpg

Figure while it's apart yet again I might as well take the opportunity to do something about it!

IMG_20201016_163805.jpg.d40482408c558bc38abcd5628d252a3e.jpgIMG_20201016_164857.jpg.37e04da872ff66df66b65955b79a79a9.jpgIMG_20201016_164859.jpg.af6de9f0cb8a5f975a39c3f6fceeca7b.jpg

Doesn't really look like much was taken off, but hey it should breath better and more power is always a good thing right?
Now to package up the crank and send it off to get built.

Also I found a replacement for the massive Uni filter
IMG_20201015_163425.jpg.c4ee74cad31d11f05f61257948b4a9c6.jpg

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Sent the crank off this morning, should have it back at the end of the week, also couriers finally delivered a few bits I ordered mid last month from the US and UK + some tools I ordered Friday

IMG_20201019_165413.jpg.377bf3d0bec7159dea40afb2a6fd0af6.jpg

A genuine Dellorto PHBG 19 BD.
I was already running a PHBG 19mm, but with all 4t parts, this one came loaded with all the good 2t bits + "race" float bowl with the cap to change jets fast and the adjustment screws on the opposite side to normal which should be good for the A50.

And since it didn't have the 2t oil feed from factory I ordered a fitting from the UK, somehow ended up ordering the 2t atomizer, bushing, slide and other bits at the same time so can convert my old carb :compress:

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17 hours ago, Raizer said:

Sent the crank off this morning, should have it back at the end of the week, also couriers finally delivered a few bits I ordered mid last month from the US and UK + some tools I ordered Friday

IMG_20201019_165413.jpg.377bf3d0bec7159dea40afb2a6fd0af6.jpg

A genuine Dellorto PHBG 19 BD.
I was already running a PHBG 19mm, but with all 4t parts, this one came loaded with all the good 2t bits + "race" float bowl with the cap to change jets fast and the adjustment screws on the opposite side to normal which should be good for the A50.

And since it didn't have the 2t oil feed from factory I ordered a fitting from the UK, somehow ended up ordering the 2t atomizer, bushing, slide and other bits at the same time so can convert my old carb :compress:

who do you order from? I'm looking at some parts from scooter centre Germany and https://www.treatland.tv/OMG-knob-style-petcock-p/omg-01z2225031.htm

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At the moment I'm just choosing the best shipping deals, the wholesaler I normally use isn't shipping outside the EU currently thanks to covid.

Carb came from Treatland, carb parts from Pedpower UK and the tools from a shop in Hamilton.

Get a lot from WeBike too

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some more SGP goodness arrived on the 4:30 autogyro from the Orient

IMG_20201027_112420.jpg.c4f2466cb851d2b175dd6ef138881e5f.jpg

And got the crank back from Tauranga Motor Machining with the fresh new rod kit installed and balanced better than factory!

IMG_20201029_203143.jpg.837aaa05fd96bc17378d3a2f464394ec.jpg

The oil seal and bits in the white bags are to replace the one bushing I reused, it's the spacer for the sprocket and the original was worn enough to leak a little oil.

 

Inside the big end of the old rod:

IMG_20201029_203205.jpg.df4bd438dfbc76fe0d16169246fe368c.jpg

And a few of the rollers aren't too flash either

IMG_20201029_203317.jpg.75cadce2cdbf9cc59c85b3e95eb07ace.jpg

Looks like it was actually using the cage as a bearing surface!!    Would have loved to have seen the old pin!

The old boy at TMM explained how to measure the side clearance to the main bearings, apparently .03mm clearance is needed, most mass produced 2t engines come a tiny bit of preload as it's faster to just whack them all together close enough than actually take the time to make shims for every engine.

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In answer to my earlier post, cry then put it away to think about what it's done was the reaction.

 

Cunt of a thing!!

 

Sound is 100% right in the top of the stroke like I always thought, just now it's easier to pin point as the new big end has 100% made a huge difference to bearing and knocking sound.

Too much compression maybe?

 

 

 

 

 

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