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Raizer is losing the plot with Scooters!


Raizer

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Fucking thing is still rattling/tapping, WTF.
Wondering if something is makes the clearances close up when it's running or something.

Also felt like it's starting to either nip up or something, actually sounded and felt more like it was running out of gas rather than seizing but will pull the cylinder again and check for any damage just in case and pull the carb + fuel tap filter and have a looksy while I'm at it.
Goes fucking well  when it wants to though haha.

 

IMG_20200920_171427.jpg.a5b146698ebfdd6027f34d89c68ea570.jpg

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56 minutes ago, tortron said:

do you think the small end has gone, maybe piston is rocking?

You nailed it I reckon.

Gets a bit tighter further down the bore.

 

Piston has a spot or 2 that look like they were starting to pick up, but more than healthy enough to polish out, so yeah going to polish piston, refit, add a decent filter and upjet a bit then just try to ignore the noise as it's already got the biggest oversize piston fitted.

 

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Pretty sure this was grabbing a bit, the bigger marks etc were there already but it wasn't rough when I fitted it

IMG-20200920-WA0039.jpg.89b9138203ee4dffa8e7f931f040e095.jpg

Little bit of rubbing with 400, 800 then1000 paper later and it's more than good enough for me

IMG-20200920-WA0043.jpg.15daa6c98b72e7fbd38124e427f6f97e.jpg

Shit pics, work phone is a bit of a potato and they were taken in messenger.

 

Also it looks like the piston was hitting the plug lightly

IMG_20200920_200022.jpg.958b2ab99e01cc8934e5bf3dea6c2e68.jpg
IMG_20200920_200049.jpg.4ce032fb263e697540f58dd0baf58128.jpg

I'll be rather embarrassed if that was the noise ha!

Had a set of jets on hand left over from my old parts business, so that's a plus I guess

IMG_20200921_162246.jpg.5c1839706047200793939f82b9745ccb.jpg
Always amused me how economy options saved costs by having smaller heads on them just to save a little bit of brass!IMG_20200921_161938.jpg.d0691f807f3ff45933503fa5b54f2994.jpg

While it was apart I realized that the carb has all the 4 stroke bits in it, needle, slide, atomizer, atomizer bushing etc, works out much easier to just buy a new 2t spec'd carb than all the individual bits, so once I get the credit card balance a little healthier I'll order one, they are pretty much impossible to get a spot on tune from with the 4t bits in.

Bit of info for anyone interested

4T atomizer and bushing:
7P5XrY3.jpg

 

2T spec ones:
AfsqRD8.jpg

qduzPmO.jpg

 

 

Swapped the projected tip NGK out for a standard tip Denso IRIDIUM POWER I had kicking about
IMG-20200920-WA0045.jpg.b12b72c6551907db6608f1063d1748ef.jpg

And added a nice new Uni filter, which only looks majorly over size and out of place hahaha

IMG_20200922_152541.jpg.f7f878e7b352982a93800995b87ec0f1.jpg

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3 minutes ago, kyteler said:

You could fit a rotor spark plug to eliminate that problem?

Might not burn hot enough perhaps. 

 

It was just me being a dumbass and assuming I could run a projected plug in the new head like I was in the last engine, got it sorted now.   If the piston touches the plug now I've got much bigger problems hahaha

IMG_20200923_081238.jpg.2d762fcc8cca1044fe9855e0fe5dff34.jpg

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9 hours ago, kyteler said:

I'll send you one if you want to try one.  I buy them by the box from RockAuto so I don't get raped by NZ retailers asking too much. 

Oooh that could be interesting to have a play with!
What heat range are they?

 

Oh and I forgot to add a pic of one of the most important additions to the bike ;)

IMG_20200923_105654.jpg.6e80fcbcf7a151c29e96fc2d2707e1c9.jpg

 

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3 minutes ago, kyteler said:

What length threaded section to tip do you need? 

12.7mm, but I reckon a spacer and a copper washer would take up the excess.

I normally run a 8 heat range, but I may have just scored another full top end that the hotter 7 would be perfect for...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally gave it a kick with the .7 copper gasket, fired up sounded mint, no tapping just the sweet 2T ring-ding  :grin:

Then after a minute or so when it warmed up it started tapping again, way quieter than before but still very distinctively there :cry:
Pulled the head and sure enough there is witness marks in the freshly polished squish band

IMG_20201004_120848.jpg.1e0abd94253f68f2e9c67d9cfe2f3445.jpg

Thinking the profile of the squish band isn't quite the same shape as the piston crown, was going to attempt reshaping it a little, but the CBFs struck, so try again but with a .9 alloy gasket!

IMG_20201004_114731.jpg.052586cda60120c0e51bb7be31485c5c.jpg
IMG_20201004_120517.jpg.bcdc20cd456a0fd4b8ca8b54dc48081b.jpg

Yeah it's ugly, I know this, but don't care, if it works out I may yet get @00quattro00 to laser one from .9 copper.
Read on a lot of old bike forums that you can and should anneal alloy with a torch just like copper

IMG_20201004_122327.jpg.57e40f819aea9f1f11a58a92827e320d.jpg

Fucking swear the old Triumph Barries are trolling!

IMG_20201004_122426.jpg.538b4dc85caaab31e0e4129ea2153f2f.jpg

 

Started again, made a nicer looking one, coated in copper spray instead of attempting to anneal, done.

IMG_20201004_125738.jpg.23d1023f8d21b000449491defa7cfd75.jpg

 

/Haven't started it yet, so until I do it's 100% fixed in my mind haha

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Same again, quiet for the first maybe minute then:

*It died from running out of gas, I'd turned the fuel off.

 

Measured squish with it hot, .8 in 3 different positions so in my mind that rules out piston hitting head.
Could be detonation?

Grabbed a digital timing light the other day when SCA had 40% off specialty tools, meant to be the go for bikes since you set the timing you want in the light and it should flash with the mark at TDC.

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/dw/image/v2/BBRV_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-srg-internal-master-catalog/default/dw4dd8a74d/images/385507/SCA_385507_hi-res.jpg?sw=558&sh=558&sm=fit

So just need to remark TDC on the flywheel and see where it's actually firing with the engine running.
Was about 22-24° with the old school light at with the engine at kick start speed, so may well be too advanced

 

Other thought is the small end of the rod is worn, sounds like a rotational noise so maybe.

 

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