Raizer Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 Oh, new page? Might as well do a post on the engine instead of go to bed then. The engine is still a work in progress, with a long term plan of swapping it out for something like an RG150 or similar unit but thats long term and I figure I might as well do what I can with the factory engine in the mean time right? My plan was just to get it running and give it a coat of paint, but that plan lasted for all of 5 minutes before I hit order on a 45mm piston kit along with some other goodies from Sweden Sent the original cylinder off for a rebore, anyone that reads the bike spam thread knows how that ended up though... While waiting for it to come back I set about cleaning, painting and changing all the seals and bolts etc etc on the bottom end. (That smell hung around in the oven for a week, I still hear about it now ha!) New points and condenser fitted up too And then this 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Raizer Posted October 31, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 31, 2019 So as it turns out there is NOTHING in the way of a big bore kit for an A50 available, I can find listings for them from no later than 2005 so a bolt on A50 kit quickly became not an option. But I did discover that until recently Suzuki made another model, the K50 that was essentially a 3 or 4 speed low power version that was popular in Europe, main difference seemed to be that the K50 used a reed valve set up instead of the rotary disc valve found in the A series. Pics looked good so figured the 45mm kit would be good to go, so I ordered a kit from Denmark along with a new head, center stand, kick starter and other bits, also learnt that Danish KR is worth almost twice the NZ$ of Swedish KR Looks good right?  Wrong Close to throwing a cover over it and walking away for a while a mate took my factory cylinder, welded on a new fin and said he'd hone it out after I ported it to try and get rid of at least the worst of the chamfering gouging. WIN! Or at least a win until I started trying to port it... The cylinder wall was paper thin and crumbly between the bore and the port, even a light touch with the die grinder just ripped chunks off So back to the K50 option...  Black K50, Green A50 CNC plasma cut adaptor Cylinder skirt hit the crank webs and the cooling fins fouled the engine cases, so a bit of high precision engineering took place Cut a couple 1.6mm base gaskets to get the port timing right Not great! But we can fix that, we have the technology The kit head seemed to have come from a soup bowl factory Close to 3mm came off that! Fitted the clutch cover etc and gave it a couple kicks to check compression Not great, but better than the factory 95psi rating at least. Fired it up at 10:30pm one night, in the house, using air freshener as engine start so I didn't break my Mrs no petrol or engine start in the house rule... 2nd kick and it burst into life!!!     And since it was so late, the exhaust port was all the exhaust it had and I didn't warn her, my Mrs just about had kittens hahahaha Spare room smelt like a warm summer breeze and I'm now banned from the air freshener, but I was so happy to hear it run!! Next day I fitted the pipe and pushed it outside, tipped a few liters of premix in and ran it for a couple heat cycles, once the rings bedded in a bit compression came up to closer to 120psi too. Fuel tap leaked like a sieve though. Sorted! Still a bit more to cover on the engine, it's actually still an ongoing thing, but you've read enough of my drivel for now lol  20 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Raizer Posted November 1, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 1, 2019 Back to the engine, 120psi-ish and zero acceleration in fifth or on any incline wasn't going to cut it!! Soo back to the lathe!! That's the factory 41mm bore head, added a 2mm squish band to take it out to the 45mm it needed to be to suit the cylinder and also took .5mm off the face for luck! Can see just how much deeper the aftermarket finned soup bowel is! And the plug after pesting about in Auckland, looking a touch rich if anything. So added another .45mm base gasket, .4mm head gasket and ended up at .86mm squish with the refreshed factory head fitted, looking for some .2 copper sheet to make another head gasket out of to gain just a little bit more nang. Much better! And I think it would have come up a bit higher if I could have got the rubber push in fitting to seal better in the plug hole. Drastic improvement to power, shift at the right time to keep it on pipe and it will pull to the top of fifth now! BUT now that it has compression it wants a lot more fuel!!   Have to order some pilot jets from MikuniOZ for it as once warmed up it is running HOT and has the worst lean hang I've ever come across     Suzuki used a non adjustable version of the Mikuni VM16 so there's no screw to fiddle with to try and make it happier in the mean time, so a little A50 waits again as I've put too much into this thing just to melt it down in the quest to pest! Oh and as it turns out, having more than 6 and 8 or so psi in the tyres really improves acceleration...   Who'd of figured... Think this post has the engine work pretty much up to date, until the bits I ordered yesterday arrive in NZ at least So here's a pic of @Archetype hard at work transforming the whole look of the bike 13 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Â 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Hmmm, that'll make changing the tyre a pain... Perfect! But then the K50 cylinder came with this: And just to make tyre changes easy  Dropped it 25mm, ended up with the swingarm level, which for some reason is pleasing to my eye on any bike   7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Probably have more from the build I can post, but not tonight. Â Have had issues with a nasty scraping clicking sound from the engine, at first I put it down to top end noise and tried to ignore it, but last time I had the cylinder off I got the Mrs to kick it over and the sound was still there, following my ear I'm 95% sure it's coming from inside the disc valve assembly. I'd noticed that at some point someone had munched up the heads of the 5 screws holding the inner valve plate in and the cross's were all jagged and rubbing on the plate, I replaced them when I put it together but the disc has a few decent gouges in it. Â I'm hoping the solution arrived today. Looking at the SGP stickers, there's NOS from the 70's, 90's and fresh new parts. Going to attempt cutting the disc for more nangs while I'm at it, have found a few timing specs to go off, so fingers crossed it works out! 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 Wow. This is awesome dude! Next level 2 stoke dedication!  Have you got any recommendations for a not so wild setup? My maverick is tired and i would love a bit more pep. Not valentino rossi spec though. Haha. Just not first gear up my hill! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 16, 2019 Author Share Posted November 16, 2019 3 hours ago, Goat said: Wow. This is awesome dude! Next level 2 stoke dedication!  Have you got any recommendations for a not so wild setup? My maverick is tired and i would love a bit more pep. Not valentino rossi spec though. Haha. Just not first gear up my hill! Cheers man!  Fresh rings (a +1mm overbore wouldn't hurt either), bit of a tidy up of the cylinder ports, take 1mm or so off the head to bump compression. Make sure it's got the 16mm carb, not common in NZ but some came with 12mm or 14mm. Intake disc benefits from a trim, I haven't got the exact timing numbers for the Suzuki R-T disc but I've been sent a cutting guide to match it. New crank seals are always a good idea and of course a spanny and rejet!        Measure your header pipe, should be 32mm but some have a 28mm as a restriction. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Old disc was sloppy as fuck on the drive spline, was pretty sure that's where the noise came from. Can't wait to get my hands on another engine to do a full rebuild and port, can see so much room to improve on the factory castings!! Managed to get hold of the specs for the factory Suzuki R-T disc, so after checking and double checking I got cutting  The worst of the noise is gone, thinking one of the bearings is responsible for what's left now.  Cutting the disc has given a decent gain, it's still not fast but it's a LOT of fun to fang about in town at least. Need to pull a few degrees of timing out, hearing a bit of pinging at WOT and under high load. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Raizer Posted January 28, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 28, 2020 After a lot of mucking about it was still gutless, figured out shit port timing from the crappy Taiwanese kit is most likely the issue. There may be enough meat in the casting to attempt to improve things, but have decided to go another way...  Enter another engine ex Sparkle, it's got a possibly noisy clutch and a slight chance of gear issues, haven't stripped it as yet so fingers crossed it's not that bad. Got a few more genuine parts hoarded in preparation of the build  And even more exciting for me is this haul of proven high nang goodness from Jonny's speedshop! Customised cylinder set up with a proper squishband combustion chamber button, modded clutch cover with 19mm Dellorto and a 12v CDI set up Need to port the cases pretty heavily, figure out a much more aggressive pipe, set up a flywheel to suit and a few other things to get max nang!! 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Also the middy has been talking about wanting to upgrade to a bike with gears and bigger wheels etc than her scooters. We'd looked at a couple Cubs, but she's a 2t fan too, talked with @Shakotom about picking her up a project F50 or FR50 from him, but never really got around to that. Then old mate @Tumeke mentioned he had an A50 with A100 forks and wheels etc that he'd fitted a U50 semi auto engine to that'd be for sale soon, showed her a couple pics, she was keen and the deal was done! Picked up the AU-Fiddy over the weekend, rather pleased with it all in all It's a little bit of a project, but that often seems to be the way with AUs Plans are pretty simple at this stage, tyres, seat, lighting and let @Bellicose loose with his spray gun, should be a sweet little town bike for her to get the hang of manual shifting, then one day down the track it'll end up with my 60cc manual clutch engine from the green one. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 30, 2020 Author Share Posted January 30, 2020 Threw a few new gaskets and seals at the AU, also welded up the exhaust and fitted an A50 airbox from @Shakotom etc. Gave the carb a good clean out and fixed the leak it had, the fuel tap had reserve, reserve and reserve, so we stripped it and used a couple bits out of it in my old A50 one which worked but leaked like a sieve. Mrs fitted her new chain and a fresh plug then had a blast riding around the yard, so I guess we better hurry up and get the paint, tyres, brakes and lights sorted before summer ends! Lol I thought it was 1 down, 2 up shift, so had her start off clicking down from a false neutral into 3rd, went a lot faster after we figured out it's actually all down shift!! Â Just trying to track down a few parts like an ignition switch for it, pretty much everything else we can make or customize to suit I think. 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Raizer Posted January 30, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 30, 2020 Also finally got around to starting on my new engine for the Green bike. The factory case screws were tight enough I had to give in and buy an impact screwdriver and they still fought that! Little tip, always remember to drain the oil first!  At least it seems @Sparkle had recently changed it, so the couple hundred ml that soaked my jeans wasn't filthy. Bit grimy, but gears look fine to me, left crank bearing is a little noisy and one of the gear bearings is rough as, no biggie as I've got new ones here anyway. Probably should have pulled all the clutch side off before splitting it, but a bit late now. Will get all the rest out then start porting! 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Raizer Posted January 31, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 31, 2020 Starting to think this engine has never even had the clutch cover off in it's life! Screw heads showed no sign of having a Phillips in the JIS heads and I even had to use the impact screwdriver on them to get them loose (why didn't I buy one years ago?!) Everything looks to be in perfect condition, and other than what I believe to be clutch dust/gunge covering a few things it's even clean inside! Bit more stripping and another degrease and the cases will be ready to go in my new toy  10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Hope you've got a reasonable size compressor to feed that cabinet. Sand/media blasting is a compressor killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 40 minutes ago, Bellicose said: Hope you've got a reasonable size compressor to feed that cabinet. Sand/media blasting is a compressor killer. I've got an older "industrial series" Air Command, hopefully it does the job! I got a bag of glass beads which say to go between 50 to 80psi so fingers crossed the lower PSI does the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 It may be a little small but will work. You'll find what works best as you go. The rated CFM is the amount of air the pump can put into the tank, not the air coming out of the outlet, what comes out is normally a third less than rated CFM. Rated psi is the max pressure that will come out at first 'pull' of the trigger once tank is full, then it goes down pretty quickly from there. The main thing I've found to help with "hungry" tools is storage capacity. I had a 13 CFM pump on the 50 litre tank and it was shit and would 'cycle' more than ideal. Put that same pump on my a 140 litre tank and it's great for air hungry tools. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 Managed to find an info sheet on it free air delivery: 337L/min 11.9cfm. Been looking at getting a bigger upright tank eventually, seen a few videos where guys use 45kg/100lb LPG tanks for air storage. With an upright tank you can use the thread where the gas valve was as both the drain and air fill so you can avoid any welding of the pressure vessel. Crap video, but gives the idea anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 I have a new 50L compressor tank. Was going to do similar to increase my capacity. Come pick it up in your next trip 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 8 minutes ago, Raizer said: Â Crap video, but gives the idea anyway. 10 points for idea. Minus 1763 points for execution. You couldn't pay me enough to be in the same shed when that's running. Google compressor tank explosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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