f100_dreamin

Bens Scampy scamp

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43847575924_e7efd0eb30_b.jpg

 

got a good deal on a 500cfm edelbrock carb and performer inlet manifold. Should hopefully make a bit of an improvement over the factory 2 barrel stuff 

 

just waiting on getting the car back from the panelbeaters at the moment, there was a hold up with the guy who was supposed to remove the rear windscreen as he got sick and ended up in hospital. Hopefully he is back at work on Monday and then work can proceed. 

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hey man

your making great progress with this! 

do you know much about the motorex hoists? 

was thinking about them but not sure on the quality and how long it will last etc 

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Cheers @piazzanoob, hopefully after the hoist goes up the work should pick up a bit.

To be fair I’m taking a bit of a punt on it. I figured as much as I’m going to use it, it should be up to the task. I’ll let you know in a month or two once I’ve got it in and have used it. 

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Vg has same size vented disc if you want to keep small pattern wheels. 

Depends on what design of wheel as to whether the us spec wheel fits over the vg brakes though. 

When talking about aussie spec valiants, the earlier wheels (up to vf) don't fit vg's

What diff has it got? Got any plans for more power later?

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@cletus staying 5x4 is simply so I can use the steel rims I already have but to be fair that is getting less likely to be the end outcome, also Its currently got a 7.25 rear end so that will need to be upgraded as I do want to make power further down the line, will likely head down the explorer path as you have, which will make the rear end 5x4.5 so getting the front end 5x4.5 now isn’t a major problem, I may have a lead on a set of 14” Aunger mag wheels from the dodge fanatic in my hotrod club so will see where that goes. 

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Torsion bars- if they are stuck, undo the front lower arm inner nut, whack the housing where the torsion bar goes in , and get a big pry bar in and push the arm back, away from the k member

Probably obvious but undo the torsion bar adjuster and remove it before you start 

 

I have used a pair of vice grips with aluminum sheet as soft jaws on the bar so you don't damage it, then whack the vice grips to push the bar back 

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I used 318 magnum pistons in the last engine I built- better compression height and a true flat top piston with no valve reliefs

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KB167 are a flat top piston with fairly tall compression height. (maybe 1.8 inches?) They say you get zero deck with just a clean up of the decks. They're hyperutectics though. so they love extra ring gap. And the frequency of vibration of a nitrous oxide detonation will shatter them. 

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Those magnums are 1.755 from memory. And depending on the year of the engine, stock is 1.725

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Which heads were you thinking of running? I've been reading good things about the new trick flow 190's. 

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Tricklows are nice but from what I can remember are spendy for the mopar. Depends on what budget you have.  So long as you're prepared for twice a chef rebuild cost, should cover it.

Heads and rocker gear should depends on what cam you're going to run. Plan that with your dynamic compression ratio..  do it all together to get the best package straight up instead of having to change something afterwards cos head cc isn't right or CR is too high with what you want.  Gets bloody spendy doing shit twice.

There is so much negativity towards hypereutectics, from what I can see it's all because ring gaps aren't right...  as mentioned above but they do state clearly out of the box....

 

 

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Looking at these, 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/trade-me-motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/core-engine/auction-1937897885.htm

 

now i know speedmaster is the same as procomp and that should have me running for the hills, there are plenty of guys in the states rubishing them but none have used them there is a few guys using them that say they look good , but it seems that even the edelbrock heads are leaving the factory with issues and have to be checked over. 

So buying these and sending them to my machinist to be given a once over maybe the go, 

 

to be fair though the engine is on the bottom of the list at the moment, as the body/metal work is my first mission. So I still have plenty of time for research and shopping around. 

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I paid pretty much that for edelbrock heads . Granted that was a few years back but it might be worthwhile pricing them up

I had a clever head guy go through them as well, he said they were fine, only thing he did was valve springs were upgraded to handle boost . 

I used factory rocker gear to start with,  but had to go to roller rockers cause the pushrods poked holes in the stamped steel ones  

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https://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product/id/2290/description/Cylinder head Chrysler SB 318ci 360ci performer Rpm alloy

there you go, edelbrocks cheaper than the procomps, by the time I’m at the point of building the engine I should have done some much better research. 

 

The guys in the states seem to complain the the valve guides are too tight on the edelbrocks, but regardless of what heads I buy I’ll get them checked over 

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Yes edelbrock heads have had some problems out of the box with tight guides, and spring assemblies. Have seen it myself.

I have heard good things about the trickflows but I do these days any set of preassembled heads you should have checked over from a reputable engine builder these days. 

Definitely pays to shop around properly.

 

 

 

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