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Kelvinators Mini


kws

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These are the ones i purchased.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/austin-rover/listing-1670540792.htm?rsqid=d6b9bcda53c74baab61e201cce334b3b

and they do ones with park lights too
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/austin-rover/listing-1670540858.htm?rsqid=d6b9bcda53c74baab61e201cce334b3b

In hindsight i shouldve got the ones with park lights, as the combo park/indicator the Mini uses at the moment mean you can barely see the indicator with the headlights on.

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1 hour ago, tortron said:

linglingling, but I got those ones so I can have inheadlight parklamps when I convert to lowlight grill

Would you like a lowlight grill?

1 hour ago, kws said:

These are the ones i purchased.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/austin-rover/listing-1670540792.htm?rsqid=d6b9bcda53c74baab61e201cce334b3b

and they do ones with park lights too
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/austin-rover/listing-1670540858.htm?rsqid=d6b9bcda53c74baab61e201cce334b3b

In hindsight i shouldve got the ones with park lights, as the combo park/indicator the Mini uses at the moment mean you can barely see the indicator with the headlights on.

Can i interest you in some LED bulbs?  If you're using the 5/21 style stop/tail bulb you can get double filament style LED in white or amber for using in the front.  They make difference, but not 100% sure how big a difference you'll see (that and you'll need an electronic flasher).

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My flasher doesnt seem to give two shits about LEDs lol, im running LED in the rear already. I have some LED bulbs here, but because i have clear lenses i didnt really want the crisp white light of an LED in the front. The problem seems to be that my flasher is quite slow, and the light output difference from park light to indicator isnt a huge difference. I might just ditch park lights completely if its an issue.

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If you happen to be going through the effort of replacing everything in the Dizzy, and mostly likely setting the timing,  I would recommend completing the tune by re setting the tappets also. As they often get a bit tight over time. 

 

Keep up the good work. 

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For your oil dilemma, you could make a vacuum extractor and just suck the oil out through the dipstick from now on to reduce the risk of sump plug leaks.

 

I made one the other day for my lawnmower by just getting a jar from the kitchen and putting two holes in the lid. One hole had a hose going from the bottom of the jar to the crank case and the other hole had a hose going to the air intake on the compressor. Drained the engine in no time with no mess.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6-5L-Manual-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-Pump-Oil-Changer-Vacuum-Liquid-Change-Car-Boat-Fuel-Transfer/32827372908.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.70.1af55f1ejZZljP&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_5722815_10342_10547_10343_10340_5722915_10548_10341_5722615_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_5722715_10059_306_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_30,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=0867a61a-0039-4a3d-bd53-483c3a4e30c6-11&algo_pvid=0867a61a-0039-4a3d-bd53-483c3a4e30c6&priceBeautifyAB=0

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Get a ball valve tap and never remove the plug again (a very 80s race car mod)

I have some gauge adaptor things here that are basically a nut and bolt that have been drilled out and threaded, so you can just drill a hole in whatever and screw them in, then run a temp gauge wherever you want. You can also use them as drain plugs

 

I would be tempted to just weld or solder a new fitting in next time you have the sump off

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1 hour ago, tortron said:

I would be tempted to just weld or solder a new fitting in next time you have the sump off

Unfortunately its not that simple... the sump is the gearbox, and its aluminium. If this version of the sump plug works then i should be good to go. Ill get an adaptor made up to step down to the original sump plug (like a big helicoil),  and that should sort it once and for all.

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On 6/21/2018 at 23:03, Seedy Al said:

If you happen to be going through the effort of replacing everything in the Dizzy, and mostly likely setting the timing,  I would recommend completing the tune by re setting the tappets also. As they often get a bit tight over time. 

 

Keep up the good work. 

Thanks for the reminder btw, clearly it was in dire need of clearance resetting.

2/8 valves at LESS THAN 0.006" (my smallest feeler), 1 at 0.007, and the rest at about 0.009. They should be 0.012" :shock:

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Works fine on my ADSL (fuck you slingshot). You'll just need to be more patient broski.

It could do with a new page though, so i get what you're saying. I'll see what i can do with the next post.

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10 hours ago, kws said:

2/8 valves at LESS THAN 0.006" (my smallest feeler), 1 at 0.007, and the rest at about 0.009. They should be 0.012" 

Hazy memory tells me 0.010" inlet, 0.012" exhaust but do please correct me if I'm wrong.

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1 hour ago, igor said:

Hazy memory tells me 0.010" inlet, 0.012" exhaust but do please correct me if I'm wrong.

Pleased be referring to manifold (and forums, and youtubes, and workshop manual)

DSC02812.jpg?ssl=1

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