locost_bryan Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 On 14/06/2018 at 08:41, Tumeke said: I have a spare 2500 engine lying around... PI Spitfire? Hmmmm That's effectively what Triumph did for the Vitesse and GT6, except they stuck with the 1600 and 2000 to give the ex-Herald gearbag a fighting chance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 And unfortunately lost all the good handling characteristics of the 4 banger due to the weight over the front :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost_bryan Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Just give the 1300 the usual period upgrades - warm cam, extractors, big valve head, or do same to a 1500 if you can find one? Or just leave it stock and enjoy it as the Lord (Nuffield) intended? A bit of bedtime reading http://triumphspitfire.rickbaines.com/weaknesses-of-triumphs-1500-engine/ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Amr500 supercharger 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 That filler on your boot lid, the stuff that fell off, is a prime example of why one should never put filler directly onto steel. It never sticks properly and will absorb moisture through the paint, hold it against the steel and cause corrosion. It's why youll so often see old repairs with big blisters as the filler swells away from the steel. For fresh steel repairs paint it with resene industrial 440 epoxy. Then you can smear it with filler to your hearts content knowing that no matter how damp the filler gets it won't affect the steel beneath. Damn I like this car! 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Thanks @yoeddynz. Will need to fold up some tin for this bit first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 And drill some drain holes in it for next time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 And then fill cavities with waxoyl or similar. Then fit 12A drill port and modgies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 @yoeddynz there isn't anything wrong with filler over bare steel. In the collision industry it is normal practice. And in the restoration we do it sometimes depending in the job. I fully agree it it much safer to expoxy prime first. It's fine if the filler is applied sanded and then painted/topcoated within short period of time , day or two and is kept dry. Problems arise when the car sits around in primer for months/ years and moisture wicks through the primer getting trapped in the filler. Modern fillers adhere perfectly to bare steel as good as any epoxy would. Prepping the surface is the most important part of any body work Soz about spam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 But still better to follow best practice eh. Id rather always do it that way instead of watching my car slowly bubble up down the road. One little tiny scratch through the top coat can let moisture in. Also- it means you can take your time with the filler stage. Even a high humidity environment, ie doing the work on a wet winter day, or in auckland... any filler present can start to pull moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 11 hours ago, JustHarry said: @yoeddynz there isn't anything wrong with filler over bare steel. In the collision industry it is normal practice. And in the restoration we do it sometimes depending in the job. I fully agree it it much safer to expoxy prime first. Well... you've just stated whats wrong with putting filler on first. So why would you? Either cost cutting or laziness. Sure - do it filler first if its a crash repair on a tiida. But we aint talking about Tiidas eh. Its just better to follow best practice eh. Id rather always do it epoxy primer first instead of watching my car slowly bubble up down the road. One little tiny scratch through the top coat can let moisture in. Times have changed along with paint technology. The old 'slap some filler on first.. she'll be right mate' guard can fuck off back to their cave. Also- it means you can take your time with the filler stage. Even a high humidity environment, ie doing the work on a wet winter day, or in auckland... any filler present can start to pull moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 I reckon @yoeddynz can come do my bonnet and @JustHarry can come do the boot with their respective methods. I will then judge neither of them and drive my car. Win/Win (I'll be putting stuff under bog cause I can't work fast enough to ensure no moisture) 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Come round here m8, the bog tins always open 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Blardy morrie owners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 no bog in the minor actually, its real straight back when steel was real 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Hey hi, have you cleaned and lubricated the mechanical weights in the distributor? I feel that this could be part of your issue with miss at speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 I've given them an oil up through the 'oil' hole but not dissembled. Advance looks ok with the timing light and a throttle jab (with and without vacuum advance connected), but not ruled that out thanks @tortron . I'm also wondering if there is some muck in the carb needles, that could be a blocking restriction. Also, the fuel pump has been known to be dodgy so I need to see how much that's putting through once I've fixed the starter motor. That might also explain why it is so hard to start - but starts fine on engine start. Just a matter of ticking one thing off at a time I guess. (when I can start it!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 yes, I had the weights and springs fully gum up in my minor so had no advance at all. some string tied to each side fed into the drivers seat let me manually adjust when going from open road to town rpms until I got home 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 Please tell us that you kept it that way for months and replaced the string twice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 It's a more pure driving experience Use different colour string for the wipers 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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