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Gav’s Honda N360


~Slideways~

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As far as the handling with a leaf spring live axle, what's your ultimate goal with the build? I'm no suspension expert but surely with a bit of fettling with shocks and sway bars etc you'd be able to make it go pretty well. Even if it didn't handle that well it'd be so damn cool it wouldn't really matter IMO.

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2 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Yeah just have a shaft supported by two bearings where a crankshaft would normally sit.

Edit. You hsve to be cautious as many items (like diffs) are not made for sideways shaft loading 

Interesting point about the side load, alternatively I could try the idea of changing the crown wheel to a sprocket like the fwd version.

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35 minutes ago, chasinthemirage said:

As far as the handling with a leaf spring live axle, what's your ultimate goal with the build? I'm no suspension expert but surely with a bit of fettling with shocks and sway bars etc you'd be able to make it go pretty well. Even if it didn't handle that well it'd be so damn cool it wouldn't really matter IMO.

The main goal is having a very light car with a high reving motorbike motor/gearbox. It won't be a track car, I have another car for that but I'd want it to not be a pig to drive and be fun on twisty roads. 

I originally thought about building a Lotus 7 replica for a similar weight.

For a leaf sprung live axle, its the most simple to start off with except for making it 4 stud. But there is fabrication in mounts and custom making a sway bar etc versus going IRS. The MX5 rear subframe would be perfect since it is a flat floor area, they quite commonly used in kit cars now that I look into it. The guy who built the VFR800 N600 used an mx5 rear but had to modify suspension arms to move the shock mount so I don't know if this could be certified here.

A live axle would need the floor cut for diff centre clearance but that'd be easy enough.

I've got to think about the front end as well, the current location of the steering rack on the firewall leaves lots of room for another engine but it is a very basic steering to strut setup. So ideally I'd want to do something there too. I like the idea of using something more modern like a civic maybe, using the strut, subframe, steering rack, brakes etc etc. It would probably mean less room for an engine... which leads me to mid mounting.

 

Edit, maybe the front from Honda City?

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
25 minutes ago, KP_wag said:

What flavour donky donk? You're in it for real now, looking forward to seeing the progress... 

It's a 2002 Kawasaki ZX12R, I couldn't pass it up. It was from an unfinished race buggy thing so came with everything I need: wiring, ecu, cluster, radiator, inline fuel pump etc etc all set up and running.

It's a bit early to be buying the engine since I have a lot of body stuff to do but it came up for sale now, so what am I meant to do...not buy it?

I will need to do some cutting to make it fit and the steering rack may cause me some difficulty but I'll know when I take the 360cc out.

 

 

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I've been thinking about the lack of reverse, and the fact that I'll have fwd hubs doing nothing. 

Maybe I could have a reverse motor connected to part of a fwd driveshaft. There may not be enough room to do it since it'd need to have a cv and a solid mounted starter motor and gear.

Maybe though.

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13 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

I've been thinking about the lack of reverse, and the fact that I'll have fwd hubs doing nothing. 

Maybe I could have a reverse motor connected to part of a fwd driveshaft. There may not be enough room to do it since it'd need to have a cv and a solid mounted starter motor and gear.

Maybe though.

Do you even need reverse? Since it's basically a mini and mini weight. Several times I reverse crash started mine by pushing it backwards just with the power of one leg out the door....

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2 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Do you even need reverse? Since it's basically a mini and mini weight. Several times I reverse crash started mine by pushing it backwards just with the power of one leg out the door....

I do remember reading somewhere that reverse isn't a LVVTA cert requirement, but buggered if I can find it now.

You should have finished that Mini.

 

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The guy got back to me about the ae95 axle and he measured 1400mm drum to drum which is wider than the random internets telling me it should be 1325mm.

1325mm sounds very narrow for a normal sized car.

AE86 T-series is 1410mm so 1400mm sounds about right.

Unless the guy is just wrong and it didn't come from a 4wd Carib.... getting him to count diff bolts and get the stud pattern. Should be 10 bolt and 4x100, I don't think there is any other t-series with that PCD.

I really need it for the 2.9:1 ratio.

EDIT:

This random site gives the rear track being 1379mm (tyre centre to centre).

http://www.carinf.com/en/9540427209.html

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1 hour ago, Adoom said:

I think track measurement is tread center to tread center, not mounting face to mounting face. Both the Nissan S13 and Triumph 2500 track info I found was not face to face.

Yeah that sounds right, still doesn’t make it 1325 though so I wonder where that came from. I’ll wait to find out the pcd and bolt count then I’ll need to shorten it.

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36 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Whaaaat! These have a solid rear?! Very surprised it didn't have IRS at this stage.

Will do some research thanks.

http://japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1995/starlet/ep85-agmsk/5_121140_041_/powertrain-chassis/4101_rear-axle-housing-differential#41110

 

2.277:1, might be a bit tall

 

Might also be a bit wide of a housing too. Car total width is around 1600 mm so flange to flange would probably be around 1400

 

Supposedly same housing and all as KP starlets, just different ring gear / stud pattern / mounting

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