Popular Post ~Slideways~ Posted April 30, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted April 30, 2018 Yay new project! Sold my AE82 FXGT so I bought this. 1972 Honda N360. Reg on Hold. Bad rust but I hope to be able to fix it. Run's pretty well, bad oil leak. Apparently rebuilt 1000km ago. Currently looking to get parts from Australia to help with the rust. Discussion: 31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 The dashboard is in such good condition considering the body is so neglected: Waiting for doors and panels from Aus, the doors and some other bits should be on the way soon. Some other parts will need to wait a week or so to cut out. The doors are rust free but a bit of damage to fix, still a much better starting point. Have a lot of ideas about what I could do with this once it is fixed body wise, so I did some rough measurements of the engine bay: About 54cm from the current subframe to the top of the engine, could gain a bit from modifying the subframe and free space to the bonnet. Almost exactly 50cm from the firewall to the grill (under the support). On the passenger side there is a heater fan motor housing jobby, it doesn't look like all had this but it could give some more space. Roughly 80cm wide if I try fit a v-engine which could overlap the sides: C Live axle (well dead axle) leaf spring rear so there is the possibility of a live axle diff for rwd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 The plan is to fix rust, get it running with 360cc engine and get it on the road. But I can't stop thinking about what I could do to it, the fact its so light keeps me coming back to a bike engine using the bike gbox. Ideas so far: 1. Tiny turbo RHB31 VZ21 the 360cc. 2. Tiny supercharger AMR300 the 360cc 3. FWD bike engine car (BEC) using R1 1000cc and modified Civic fwd diff and shafts (might need to cut firewall). 4. VFR800 rwd if I can move the engine far enough to the passenger side to get the output shaft close enough to the middle, then a live axle with normal diff. Problem is the ratio needs to be at or less than 3.0:1 which isn't going to happen since most small diffs are around 4:1 or 5:1 5. Semi copy that vfr800 one of youtube and use an IRS rear end (mx5 or S13), run normal prop shaft and no reverse. This would be at best 3.6:1 so it would be revving its tits off at 100kph. 6. IRS rear, modify the diff to run a sprocket like they do with the fwd ones. That way the diff ratio is open to what ever size sprocket(s) are used. This also means it would need to be a mid mounted engine for the chain and it's much further than I wanted to go with the car, not even sure it could be road legal. A sprocket diff solves the diff ratio problems and makes it easier to have electric reverse but it also has its own problems. I could possibly run an inline car gearbox but again it gets very complicated with driveshafts So..... the easiest options: FWD - leave it factory and 27hp. FWD BEC R1 (compact) and sprocket diff RWD The easiest way to make it rwd is a no reverse, live axle leaf sprung, 'normal' prop shaft, front engine (has to be compact enough to mount north south). This literally keeps me awake at night. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ~Slideways~ Posted May 16, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 16, 2018 YUSSS! My first package has arrived I was worried about customs. 7 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted May 17, 2018 Author Share Posted May 17, 2018 These aren't my fckn urine bottles? Two front guards a rear quarter and a bit of roof. The guards have rust where there is a rubber seal behind the panel, exactly the same as my originals. But the rest is a much better starting point. Waiting on two lower doors, a sill and maybe a bonnet. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Two Ausy doors arrived, very rust free but some dents to pull out: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 I went to Pick a Part and had a look at some live axles, the wheel base of the N360 is 1295 according to Wikipedia I'm sure that is with the skinny wheels though. Since it has leaf spring rear it's the easiest option for rwd if I go that direction. Its also the most horse and cart option handling wise but it's still be a rwd Kei car. The 4 stud makes it easier wheel wise. Suzuki Carry: Found a 1999 Suzuki Carry with coil spring rear live axle, its was about 1385mm. Could work width wise, but the diff ratio is going to be in the 5:1 range I'd bet. I need around 3:1 due to the small wheels, even then it'll be doing 5-6000rpm at 100kph. But it'll be able to rev to 13000rpm depending on the bike engine. Sounds bad but my old standard AE86 used to do almost 4000rpm at 100kph. VN Commodore: 3:08:1 is common, its a straight tube type so is easier to shorten. According to this diagram you can get it down to 1325mm without custom half shafts. But then I have 5x120 to deal with. Maybe I could redrill the stub axles and use 4 stud discs. Holden IRS diff in a MX5 subframe. Use a 3.08:1 Holden diff, cut up mx5 subframe. This would make it easier to fit a starter motor reverse since the diff doesn't move. This is much more complicated though, cutting floor, coil spring mounting points etc. That guy did similar with the VFR800 one, using some other diff that wouldn't be common in NZ. --------------------------------- Leaf spring rear is by far the easiest, also solves the problem of the probably stuffed standard rear drums and hard to get bits. How 'bad' is a leaf spring rear going to be for handling though? It's not going to be a race car 10/10ths thing, its mainly going to be a fun road car. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 I mean Escorts and Rx's can handle well with leaf springs... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 Just found another option, AE95 Carib 4wd has a 2.929:1 solid T-series axle. AE95 Solid Axle (coils) T462: 6.7", 2.92:1, 2 pinions, Open4x100 1325mm Drum Being T-series an after market LSD is available. It's 4x100 with drum brakes but that's ok. Especially if I use Civic 4x100 brakes at the front. Does anyone know of a 4wd Carib AE95 wrecking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 Not exactly sure on ratio but 4wd libero rear diff may be easy enough to get hold of. Will be 4x114 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 7, 2019 Author Share Posted February 7, 2019 2 hours ago, mjrstar said: Not exactly sure on ratio but 4wd libero rear diff may be easy enough to get hold of. Will be 4x114 though. Good suggestion, I never knew these were solid axle! This random TM auction was they are 3.5 or 3.3 which is better than most but I need closer to 3:1 due to little wheels. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/diffs-axles/listing-1938017278.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Might have found an ae95 axle, will hear back over the weekend. They are 1325mm wide, drum face to drum face, which would mean it would stick out roughly to here: So it would work if using fwd offset wheels (easy enough being 4x100) and some flares. Or some nice negative offset alloys and bigger flares. Then I'd change the front to 4x100 using gen 2 Civic knuckles and have disk brakes too. Would need to have spacers on the front though. Hopefully having a look at a bike engine soon because I can't help myself. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ~Slideways~ Posted February 17, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 17, 2019 AWWWW YEAAHHHH 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Time to get this out of the little garage at the bottom of the property, the house is built into a hill so the back section is multiple levels. There is a 'grass driveway' to get up, I thought it would be fine since it hasn't rained for a while. Nope. 27hp grass skids and the best I could get to was 3/4" of the way up, it doesn't look steep but it is: Oh and it started fine after sitting for ages. Look at it, majestic: It got dark so I gave up and got the Safari lined up to winch it up. Top of the hill with winch rope leading down to it: My view watching it drive itself up the hill: Let it idle outside, not sure why...the engine is coming out anyway. My boy wanted to know how to write my name with his chalk, but only the last 3 letters. Cool. In the garage with the other car I should really be working on. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Started on the rust repairs, spot weld drilling. 1972 Honda wasn't very consistent with the spot weld positioning: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ~Slideways~ Posted February 24, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 24, 2019 Engine bay: Less engine and less bay: Glass out, the frame is remarkably rust free. Except for the one spot which was where the water drain would have been: Previous owners idea of "rust repairs": Almost ready to pull the engine out, just the rear engine mount and a couple more bolts on one of the driveshafts. The manual says to remove the engine out the bottom attached to the subframe and hubs etc as one unit, but I needed to cut the front panel anyway plus I want to keep it rolling. Will be welding it back in or making some brackets depending on how the bike engine sits in there. The lower panel will definitely need to move for clearance I think. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Kind of cool, I took the passenger seat out and found there is a genuine original tool kit strapped under the seat, you can't see it unless your passenger has feet eyes. It looks like it has never been taken off or opened in 47 years, based on the condition of the metal under it and the contents. Each one is embossed with (HM) which I guess must be Honda Motors? 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 It's had an exhaust leak since I got it. Pretty sure this is it: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Late night engine removal. Realised taking it out the top meant steering rack had to be moved because the gear selector rod and the rear mount JUST don't fit through the gap. Look at all that room! 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ~Slideways~ Posted February 28, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 28, 2019 Test fit, a very vague proof of whether its going to be possible versus what I had in my head. With NO cutting or moving anything, it JUST fits under the steering rack but I can't lower it or move it back anymore because its resting on the subframe. It will need to move over to the passenger side to get the sprocket more centred, I should be able to get away with not having it perfectly centered though. Motivation to crack on with the rust repairs though! As you can see here, it should clear the bonnet, and it is resting on the front of the subframe, I will be able to cut out a section of this and still retain the foremost part of the frame. Meaning it will drop down a bit more: The sump design for the bike is very 'deep' but only on one side of the sump area because the exhaust normally runs next to this sump section. I plan on cutting up the sump to gain ground clearance as well as increase the capacity plus look at baffling: This just looks fucking cool... Extractors need to fit here, but I also need to move it further over to this side of the car to center it with what will be the driveshaft tunnel. It is also currently resting on the oil filter sandwich plate (which I need to return to the previous owner). I also have the original Kawasaki water to oil cooling sandwich plate, but I think I am going to need to fit filter relocating adapter anyway. The part of the subframe it is resting on should be able to be trimmed. Front view, it'll go over to the passenger side more and a bit further back. Fitting a radiator is going to be interesting.... 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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