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Gav's Honda N360


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  • 2 weeks later...

The dashboard is in such good condition considering the body is so neglected:

IMG_6354.jpg.ef1434293920be1071218262df95fabf.jpg

 

Waiting for doors and panels from Aus, the doors and some other bits should be on the way soon. Some other parts will need to wait a week or so to cut out.

The doors are rust free but a bit of damage to fix, still a much better starting point.

Have a lot of ideas about what I could do with this once it is fixed body wise, so I did some rough measurements of the engine bay:

About 54cm from the current subframe to the top of the engine, could gain a bit from modifying the subframe and free space to the bonnet.

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Almost exactly 50cm from the firewall to the grill (under the support).

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On the passenger side there is a heater fan motor housing jobby, it doesn't look like all had this but it could give some more space.

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Roughly 80cm wide if I try fit a v-engine which could overlap the sides:

IMG_6345.jpg.cebef9a935102b9040e5d7481201f4d4.jpgC

 

 

Live axle (well dead axle) leaf spring rear so there is the possibility of a live axle diff for rwd?

IMG_6352.jpg.750aa30370fb701bf69db963acdb9976.jpg

 

 

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The plan is to fix rust, get it running with 360cc engine and get it on the road. 

But I can't stop thinking about what I could do to it, the fact its so light keeps me coming back to a bike engine using the bike gbox.

Ideas so far:

1. Tiny turbo RHB31 VZ21 the 360cc.

2. Tiny supercharger AMR300 the 360cc

3. FWD bike engine car (BEC) using R1 1000cc and modified Civic fwd diff and shafts (might need to cut firewall).

4. VFR800 rwd if I can move the engine far enough to the passenger side to get the output shaft close enough to the middle, then a live axle with normal diff. Problem is the ratio needs to be at or less than 3.0:1 which isn't going to happen since most small diffs are around 4:1 or 5:1

5. Semi copy that vfr800 one of youtube and use an IRS rear end (mx5 or S13), run normal prop shaft and no reverse. This would be at best 3.6:1 so it would be revving its tits off at 100kph.

6. IRS rear, modify the diff to run a sprocket like they do with the fwd ones. That way the diff ratio is open to what ever size sprocket(s) are used. This also means it would need to be a mid mounted engine for the chain and it's much further than I wanted to go with the car, not even sure it could be road legal.

A sprocket diff solves the diff ratio problems and makes it easier to have electric reverse but it also has its own problems.

I could possibly run an inline car gearbox but again it gets very complicated with driveshafts

 

So..... the easiest options:

FWD

- leave it factory and 27hp.

FWD BEC

R1 (compact) and sprocket diff

RWD

 The easiest way to make it rwd is a no reverse, live axle leaf sprung, 'normal' prop shaft, front engine (has to be compact enough to mount north south).

 

 

This literally keeps me awake at night.

 

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These aren't my fckn urine bottles?

IMG_6463.jpg.a6e62b3992098dfd5fbfee95e79572ec.jpg

 

Two front guards a rear quarter and a bit of roof.

The guards have rust where there is a rubber seal behind the panel, exactly the same as my originals. But the rest is a much better starting point.

 

Waiting on two lower doors, a sill and maybe a bonnet.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

I went to Pick a Part and had a look at some live axles, the wheel base of the N360 is 1295 according to Wikipedia I'm sure that is with the skinny wheels though. 

Since it has leaf spring rear it's the easiest option for rwd if I go that direction. Its also the most horse and cart option handling wise but it's still be a rwd Kei car.

The 4 stud makes it easier wheel wise.

Suzuki Carry:

Found a 1999 Suzuki Carry with coil spring rear live axle, its was about 1385mm. Could work width wise, but the diff ratio is going to be in the 5:1 range I'd bet. I need around 3:1 due to the small wheels, even then it'll be doing 5-6000rpm at 100kph. But it'll be able to rev to 13000rpm depending on the bike engine.

Sounds bad but my old standard AE86 used to do almost 4000rpm at 100kph. 

VN Commodore:

3:08:1 is common, its a straight tube type so is easier to shorten. According to this diagram you can get it down to 1325mm without custom half shafts.

But then I have 5x120 to deal with. Maybe I could redrill the stub axles and use 4 stud discs.

 

VnDiffModsSAM_1.jpg.c7750618db51e2ff92e35834acfdc649.jpg

 

 

Holden IRS diff in a MX5 subframe.

Use a 3.08:1 Holden diff, cut up mx5 subframe. This would make it easier to fit a starter motor reverse since the diff doesn't move. This is much more complicated though, cutting floor, coil spring mounting points etc. That guy did similar with the VFR800 one, using some other diff that wouldn't be common in NZ.

 

 

---------------------------------

 

Leaf spring rear is by far the easiest, also solves the problem of the probably stuffed standard rear drums and hard to get bits.

How 'bad' is a leaf spring rear going to be for handling though? It's not going to be a race car 10/10ths thing, its mainly going to be a fun road car.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just found another option, AE95 Carib 4wd has a 2.929:1 solid T-series axle.

AE95 Solid Axle (coils) T462: 6.7", 2.92:1, 2 pinions, Open
4x100 1325mm Drum 

Being T-series an after market LSD is available.

It's 4x100 with drum brakes but that's ok. Especially if I use Civic 4x100 brakes at the front.

 

Does anyone know of a 4wd Carib AE95 wrecking? 

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2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Not exactly sure on ratio but 4wd libero rear diff may be easy enough to get hold of. Will be 4x114 though. 

Good suggestion, I never knew these were solid axle! This random TM auction was they are 3.5 or 3.3 which is better than most but I need closer to 3:1 due to little wheels.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/diffs-axles/listing-1938017278.htm

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Might have found an ae95 axle, will hear back over the weekend. 

They are 1325mm wide, drum face to drum face, which would mean it would stick out roughly to here:

IMG_1179.jpg.ab7dfd0aee6b0c3029efbfd46179f21b.jpgIMG_1177.jpg.0e8d9ffa71f88a79df9ba83cb40364ab.jpg

 

So it would work if using fwd offset wheels (easy enough being 4x100) and some flares.

Or some nice negative offset alloys and bigger flares.

Then I'd change the front to 4x100 using gen 2 Civic knuckles and have disk brakes too. Would need to have spacers on the front though.

Hopefully having a look at a bike engine soon because I can't help myself.

 

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Time to get this out of the little garage at the bottom of the property, the house is built into a hill so the back section is multiple levels. There is a 'grass driveway' to get up, I thought it would be fine since it hasn't rained for a while.

Nope.

27hp grass skids and the best I could get to was 3/4" of the way up, it doesn't look steep but it is:

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Oh and it started fine after sitting for ages.

Look at it, majestic:

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It got dark so I gave up and got the Safari lined up to winch it up.

Top of the hill with winch rope leading down to it:

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My view watching it drive itself up the hill:

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Let it idle outside, not sure why...the engine is coming out anyway.

My boy wanted to know how to write my name with his chalk, but only the last 3 letters. Cool.

 

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In the garage with the other car I should really be working on.

IMG_1233.jpg.46db6a87950949fea7b774f3c0da7fc0.jpg

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Kind of cool, I took the passenger seat out and found there is a genuine original tool kit strapped under the seat, you can't see it unless your passenger has feet eyes.

It looks like it has never been taken off or opened in 47 years, based on the condition of the metal under it and the contents.

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Each one is embossed with (HM) which I guess must be Honda Motors?

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