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SOHC's Briggs & stratton creation.


SOHC

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59 minutes ago, fletch said:

Tru tests have 3/4 frames and 7/8 forks.

 

I know a few tru test foamers that will be keen on some wheels

I am going to do everything in 7/8 on my frames, they will not be trutest copy's, but yes please tell everyone there will be wheels at some stage.

43 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Could you bung some leather in there maybe to fill the gap in the dies?

It might cut through it, there is tremendous pressure  

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Re pipe bending.

Make sure the pipe seam is on the side of the bend, ie. not the inside or outside of the bend. 

Also pipe size is measured inside diameter so the 1 inch die will measure much bigger.

If trying to bend tube you'll need a specific tube bender.

Edited by a.craw4d
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On 7/27/2018 at 21:21, a.craw4d said:

Re pipe bending.

Make sure the pipe seam is on the side of the bend, ie. not the inside or outside of the bend. 

Also pipe size is measured inside diameter so the 1 inch die will measure much bigger.

If trying to bend tube you'll need a specific tube bender.

 

I have found it dose not really matter where the seam is, but schedule is important, I bent the frame on the red bike using a shitty pipe bender, its made from 27mm OD no problems with nice bends, just have to make sure its a nice fit in the swage       

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  • 2 weeks later...

I also picked up this hunk of shit, its kind of cool, home made with 6" rims and home made front and rear drum brakes, it would of had a Villers motor I think. I will change the rear sprocket to run a #420 chain and fit my high compression B&S 5HP. and a new paint job. 

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  • 3 months later...

I finished the homemade red bike, goes relay well, no shortage of power, motor is a strong runner, still needs a rear brake cable, I have a wooden seat but needs foam and a cover, This frame was built for a Villers 2 stroke and the frame rail was in the way for mounting the B&S but I had the remains of a Masport rotary hoe and whacked off the engine mount witch is adjustable, worked out perfect for this bike to get the engine offset and for adjusting the chain.

 

If anyone comes across a B&S V twin horizontal shaft motor I would be keen for the next project.  

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Sold the smaller bike, and I am thinking of putting this diesel motor in the stretched bike. its 15 odd HP and fairly small but tall. I need to find a crankshaft with a 1" PTO shaft as this one is a short tapered shaft, I would swap the electric start system off this motor for a pull start if anyone has one?

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That short taper shouldn't be an issue. Just make up a spindle with that tape cut in and it will grip fine. Same as Morse taper on drill chuck etc...

Gopeds use same idea, but are direct drive. They never slip.

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Something like this, but just put a 1/4" key in the shaft and machine OD at 1" to take centrifugal clutch.

If really worried about slipping, machine a key into the taper as well, like flywheel on small motors.

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cool thank you, I will look into making an adapter, I think if a new crankshaft is not very expensive I will grab one of them . I am thinking more now of putting this engine an old road bike frame, I think its an 18 HP.

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  • 1 year later...

I have decided to fix the final drive on this, I used 2 of those flange mount bearings face to face but the chains can cause the shaft to go at a bit of an angle, I am going to add one of those saddle pillow blocks on an outrigger welded to the main mount so the final drive sprocket shaft will be supported better, also the inner tube valve was tone off and rear tire is rooted from all the power, 

I still want to put a Briggs & Stratton V twin in this sometime 

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