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Trashed the tits off it. Got it completely air borne witch was pretty sweet. Steering wheels on the piss now.

check YouTube for a decline where the rear started to lift and come around.

dug out by safs and landys, pretty much just coasted down on my diffs

 

found a place called church (check rd sign) that was well setup and spent some time smoking and drinking there before coming back to civilisation 

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Carb crapped it self and started leaking fuel, motors non cross flow to so straight onto the exh manifold, mint.

thankfully these things are really popular in the states and parts are cheap on eBay, seal kit was $120 or whole new carb for $210.

Should take 3 or so weeks to turn up so thought I’d work on some other things while I wait on that. Like the swivel hubs I’ve been putting off for some time..

Rebuilding swivel hubs sucks dick. NZAD did a really good kit that came with a bucket load of shims and good quality seals witch was around 100 and something. 

I’ll go to saeco tomorrow and get new wheel bearings and C clips that have plyer holes. factory ones don’t and left me throwing tools around in anger for some time

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Got it running on the new carb, only idles with the choke so need to spend some time setting it up. But it runs and doesn’t leak so thats a win for this week.

got the wheel bearings too. At $150 they cost x5 what the carina ones did, and $40 for diff fluid too.

apprently old factory lsd’s fit in the front so might look into that too

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Ground some notches in the C clips with a thin disc on a grinder. Made it miles easier!!

so it’s wheels on and plodding around a paddock.

only thing now is getting it running well, witch is proving a lot harder then I thought.

has some weird solenoid that makes it idle with out the choke that’s feed from some very 80’s looking emissions looking box.

unfortuntly the shorted it out and can’t find the fuse for it.

jammed 12v on it and it seems to work when warm. Still runs like a bag of dicks and the idle and enrichment screws do fuck all. Pretty unhappy atm.

might tinker with the factory carb this week, really the last thing I want to be doing, and hope of OS drag week are looking slim for the DYO slayer

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It lives!

its mayden voyage from kumeu to te Atatu went without a hitch

it is hilariously slower though haha I’ll play with the carb some more and see if I can get it from low 30 1/4 miles back into the 20’s

 

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So this turned up! Pretty stoked haha defiantly going on the garage wall with the winning slip from my DYO win haha

thanks for sending this though Brent! These stickers are dope to! Old DEKA is pretty sweet!

many thanks to organisers, had a good laugh and nice to check out other builds from the page.

as anyone could tell it still runs like crap, might be going unconditional on a house this week so spare time and funds have been short, and probably will be through into the new year but I’ll keep tinkering with it.

and fingers crossed with my own garage, be able to get my other cars up to a road worthy standard for next years drags.... maybe.

I’ll get Matt to send through the video of me getting smoked by the yellow moped

P.S if anyone has a photo of this crumpy lined up next to the GTR please send it through

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Treated my self for Christmas.

bumper was in bad shape and indicator hanging on with a wood screw and penny washer.

brand new repo bumper, end caps and indicator was a little over $200.

indicator fitment wasn’t great but I made it work.

picked up an LSD as well, so once I fucking find my verniers I’ll get some shim steel.

its an odd type of lsd, works on centre spring pre load. One in my other car is Cusco clutch plate with a cam, works bloody well, I’m sceptical of this pre load thing.

but it was cheap and better then an open so meh.

its from a 90’s so apparently the bearings are bigger so need to figure out what bearings to get, once that’s done..

put the shimmed one with the bigger bearings in the rear.

then shim the original one back to factory spec and put it in the front.

since it doesn’t have a cam and works on proloaded plates I’m assuming it’ll operate like a 2way, in witch I want to be careful how much I shim the front one or it will be a nightmare and dangerous on the road.

 

Picked up some second hand EFS shocks off Kris witch is good as mine are stuffed and still have Toyota stamped on them.

Kris was a g and took me for a hot lap in his crumpy too, animal thing!

feels super similar to ATV things I’ve driven, much like

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Things to do...

welds on the cross support on the front seat have broken so need to weld that up.

the spring wire thing under the front seat are snapped as well so I’m pretty much just sitting on the floor so need to sort that out. No idea where to get old school seat springs???

go a workshop manual too so can start getting it running better, think is just the timing.

get steel and start making rear tow bar and front bar, both with built in recovery points.

 

i replaces the rear brake cyl and shoes as well so my hand brake now works again, hopefully it won’t roll down the hill away from me again.

hand brake leavers on the side of the drums are still from dirt etc so I’ll pull them apart and regrease it all.

also snapped you this OS OEM roof basket witch is sweet. Alloy too in keeping with the light weight theme.

think it’s factory option for a 60 series landy but it all bolts/rivers the same as the tray so can make it fit and now update my JDM fuck boy status up another notch once I get some racks to mount it on

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Cabs got some rust and dent from people putting stuff on the roof. 

Not really fussed on what it looks like but I need to look after the cab against rust at least for wof’s.

took the worst back to bare metal and acid washed it then sealed it with some epoxi primer.

still need to do rear behind the tray but that can’t wait till I’ve got my workshop setup.

went to car colour and picked up paint for the cab.

he asked how he could help when I walked in, said I wanted some red paint. Looked at me like I was some pleb.

he had a look at the chassis tag, and sure enough it just says red. He looked it up in the system and it was just listed as red..

looked at me and laughed and said “ya weren’t joking were ya”

its NZ new 1985 and for some reason the tag dosent have much on it aside from vin and red haha

picked up full EFS kit as well. Gotta measure and change the mounts for the front shocks so it’s good I got the +50mm ones off Kris I can run till I get that sorted

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Started sorting out the loom and removing things not needed.

they run two ECT sensors, one being in the bottom the the rad

also two speed sensors off the gearbox.

theres a plastic casing that sits on the back of the head witch houses a collection 0v, 12v perm,12v ecu and 5v.

although the casing is on the back the head I might be able to rework it to the back of the intake. Try hide it and utilise as much factory loom as possible.

ive split the E-throttle into a seperate loom altogether.

want to swap out the oil sender for a press sensor to get proper reading, guys normally T off for the turbo at this point but would think that leads to inaccurate readings should the turbo flow a lot of oil??

ill post some photos when I’ve started adding wiring.

Need to cut and reweld my manifold adapter too so the turbo sits closer and lower but that will haft to wait till I’ve finished moving

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Made some good progress today.

stripped more. Ended up getting rid of the plastic covers on the rear of the head altogether.

this meant getting rid of the connector block with comb style links.

throttle position changing to the front of the engine, pretty much all air sensors/solenoids have to move.

this has left the injectors far to long, witch isn’t an issue as I’ve got to change the plugs away, so I’ll cut it all back and reuse the factory plastics as cable support.

need to change the plugs as Honda do their own style of injectors. Msel have Bosch 730’s that are batch matched for some of the best pricing I could find. I’ll need extending cups due to the odd length as well and use ev6 ls2 plugs.

 

added a 5v core from the ecu to the sender location, but I’ll leave it unwrapped until I see where boost solenoid and IAT sensors are going.

I use bootlace crimps with the coloured feral cut off. Coppers twisted together to the same thickness as the insulation then the crimp hangs over and gets crimpped down onto the insulation as well, for strength and help against metal fatigue on the strands.

larger ones that aren’t in line are just twist, crimp with longer crimps. Heat shrink, fold the end over, and head shrink again to seal it off from liquids.

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Unfortunately I’ve been to busy with life to give anything car related some time until the last couple days.

stills runs like shit, -5 stars for the eBay carby. Think the secondary sticking, maybe, fuck knows

anywho, seat was buggered and found another for $80 in good con. Good bloke even dropped it off for me and had yarns about unfinished projects for over an hour.

Pulled the vinyl up and... ffs

ill sort it out and take it back, then DP40, then raptor coat it all black and just not bother with floor covers cause 4wd life

 

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Issues with the exhaust too. HX30 rear housing flange doesn’t suit anything I can find off the shelf so I’ll need to get another flange-turbo that goes straight to 3”.

that and the lengths of tube and bends OD is about a 1.5mm to big for the other V bands I’ve got for down pipe to mid, and mid - tail so I’ll haft to chuck them in the lath.

mainly cause I like to overlap the tube from one side into the other side V band as well as using male-female V bands.

i did it on a JZX110 system I did and it located well and sealed super tight.

other things the intake. Going to do a quick cut and shut to get it running. Bit of an awkward spot but a 90’ into the cente on the plenum should work ok. Just need to do a measure up from the bellhousing to see where it will sit.

then save up for a spool gun and glue stick the cunt together 

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Still busy with life :| hopefully find time to put this in.

Type S oil pump upgrade for the k24. Apparently the k24’s oil pump cavitates at higher rpm and the k20 oil pump is better designed for high rpm.

its a shame it’s cast alloy because I wanted to extend the sump to be deeper and lengthen the pickup to suit.

can get one of these to help stop the oil traveling up the timing chain cover, and I’ll look into modifying the sump as I’m phoning to be pretty paranoid about the oiling system.

oil systems probably gonna cost more then the motor with all the bolts ons haha Owell 

https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-oil-pump-baffle

 

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