Ashkellybarr Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 Injectors and rail in clutch back on welded a nut to some plate to check the clutch is disengaging and it’s all working mint! So stoked with that need to change one of a heater hard lines. Then spend some time doing the loom and changing injection plugs 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 Sorted the loom out for all the sensors, coils and injections. really liking the fuel rail cable support! starting on power harness witch is a bit more tricky without it being in the hole. going to move the battery to the intake side. Witch should also free up room on the turbo side. Try find a large OEM filter box that fits in there nicely. maybe something off a later model 4wd with snorkel and large panel filter 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted October 12, 2019 Author Share Posted October 12, 2019 Excuse the palm ive been slowly killing. Bastard got in the waste pipe Put lunch and beers on and got the cab off. Debating weather to acid dip or sand blast still. ill give it a water blast and get all the lines and shit off it 8CDBB3D6-F2DE-4E90-B4A9-2034D84EF311.png 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted November 7, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 7, 2019 Dip it is. 200 in folding it’s far cheaper then sand blasting. should be ready end of next week where it’ll go off to the electro platers 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 Hopefully pick this up this week or next. spray it 2K black like everything else and done. only thing stopping me now from bolting everything together now is rust cuts in the cab 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted December 12, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 12, 2019 Time to get the taps out.. picked up my air comp from a mate so I’ll hopefully spray it at some point over the next week 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted December 12, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 12, 2019 Also. acid dipping ended up being 250 cash as it was 150mm to long for the tank so had to sit for some days then swap ends for a couple more. hot galv was 316.25 all up inc gst so $566.25 all up for the full treatment. That’s with me removing everything my self. not bad considering most coatings places wanted around 2K and that’s just a sand blast and spray 2K under seal. Where the sand blaster can’t reach they just spray cav wax, not actually removing and rust that’s formed. in saying that, it’s a lot of work to fully strip a chassis, but for a 4WD that gets driven through salt water it’s justified. Galv has formed well inside the chassis rails so I’m pretty happy with it 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted December 19, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 19, 2019 Picked up some acid etch. $58 for a 2L kit. Sprays super thin. was hot today so just started with light coat from front to rear, then straight back to front again and kept doing that till it was all used up. Left it looking pretty blinging! started on the 2K black where the gun packed up. Only spraying like an air brush it took hours to get one coat. Then the needle seal gave out and started spraying paint out the top of the trigger covering me. Continued on as I was already to far gone. Had about 80% done where it then decided to work properly, did a couple strokes and let off the trigger and it stayed on full tit so I just kept going and did a whole pot in one go without the trigger coming unstuck. What a fucking disaster! Least it’s had a full coat. And my mate that’s an actual car painter said he’ll head over and sort it for me haha fuck my life 8 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 Happy as! Stripped the diffs and epoxisprayed them. had the bottom U bolt plates acid dipped them epoxi sprayed them too. installed all the new suspension, greaseable shackles and bolts, adjustable drop steering arm and torque arm just need bump stops, and steering rod rack ends. and get some sanding wheels for the drill to take out the build up in the shackle mount tubes thinking with the Honda engine exhaust being on the drivers side I might as well do the fuel and break lines now and swap them to the other side 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 Need to get the cab back on before winter kicks in. Picked up a new bush kit. Had my query’s as the crush tube is thin and the big washers only aloe for from an M8 witch I though was a bit on the small side. The thinner crush tubes allow for an M12 witch was better but after talking to one of the engineers at work he said the crush tubes to thin for the torque setting of an M12. So I found some thicker crush tubes laying around work and got some longer M10 cap screws witch I think will work better. Cap screws being tensile too Also made some spacers out of 100m UHMWPE off cuts too witch should help with gearbox and bellhousing clearance 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Some of the boys came round to help lift the body back on today. Put all the new bushes on the chassis then used threaded rod to help line it up, boys lifted and the girls pulled the planks out, easy down and it was on! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Can see here how much higher it is after the 4.5” lift. leafs will still settle down a bit after more gets bolted on/in. But with 1” body lift and 35” tires it’ll sit another 3” taller plus the roof basket 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted August 16, 2020 Author Share Posted August 16, 2020 Good visual of height, if I had 35’s I could probably just roll the motor and box straight under the frame. cant wait to get a photo with the turbo on :) 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted August 17, 2020 Author Share Posted August 17, 2020 As I thought I ended up moving the whole lot forward 35mm witch meant modding the gearbox x member. Might still need the “massage” the firewall for the Ktune coolant neck off the back of the head but nothing to bad. I’ll haft to cut and weld a kink in the shift leavers as the Gear shifter already sat far to close to the head unit. mount will sit a couple mm lower too but worse case I’ll just put some body-chassis spacers in 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 These different depth mount holes are a real pain in the ass ye old battery lathe saved the day 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted August 19, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 19, 2020 Alright.. all confessions, the motors not mounted. Just sitting on strops. how ever the Gbox member is done and bolted it, with the box level that’s pretty close to where the motor will sit. unfortunitly the factory mounts on the chassis are waaay to far forward. And actually interfere with the thermostat housing and alternator. after talking to a cert guy and couple other onto it guys I’ve though best to leave it to someone else. Bloke down the rd does nothing but motor sport stuff and said 1/2 to a full days work, so I’ll leave it to him when he’s got time in a couple weeks. in the mean time, I can finish and bleed brakes, install drive shafts, new hard line for clutch slave location. install hi steer kit. and that’ll get it moving. from there it’s: intake manifold fuel system wiring ECU and tuning. Good feeling to make progress 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted September 8, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 8, 2020 Little bit stuck cause getting motor mounts done and plumbing brake and fuel lines is all good and well. However they all run down the inner drivers side chassis rail. unfortunity this leaves bugger all room for exhaust manifold and turbo down pipe incl clearance to meet ver requirements. i have a feeling there’s gonna be a significant amount of time and money spent here. good news though, if I get fuel running to it and finish the ecu wiring there’s no reason I can’t get it started now I’ve got a manifold made 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 Apart again, loaded up, ready for fab hopefully next time it’ll be the 4wd towing the drift hack and not the other way around 6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted May 7, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 7, 2021 Coming together 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ashkellybarr Posted May 10, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 10, 2021 Gotta start thinking about rad and intercooler soon 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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