Jump to content

Bluebear01's 1983 1uz powered Toyota Crown


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

So I've been trying to make up my mind over the last year whether to stick with the auto, or go manual. The auto TCU was missing, so that was going to be a pain, but the W series boxes are just so pricey!  I was looking at the Spitronics trans controllers till I spotted this old girl at the local wreckers. Looked in and sure enough, 5 speed!

IMG_2392.thumb.JPG.552acf2ef1c18ed15f35675bc202f622.JPG

 

So I thought, stuff it. Manual is cooler. Haven't counted if it's a W55 or 57, but I'll be happy with ether. Also grabbed pedal box & driveshaft.

The guys were happy for a swap with my old 5M & trans, everyone wins!

IMG_2390.thumb.JPG.4e1e6012d7bb1e84b731fa03e67c8d86.JPG

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good ol' Toyota gave me provision under the dash for the clutch pedal box, just a slight difference in the upper hole spacing between it & the Cressida setup. IMG_2368.thumb.JPG.e1293f5e17c7b52ceae76a76007ad1c0.JPG

IMG_2374.thumb.JPG.86f5cb02ce4e26fdaddf9e46c2a729d1.JPG

 

Which didn't take too much to rectify...

 

IMG_2395.thumb.JPG.576f993ef03223b8ac15ecf6d4096a6e.JPG

But there is quite a difference between the MS112 & RX60 brake pedals, so I'll stick with the original for now. I'd like to cut down the auto pedal pad area, but I'm aware this will require cert. Since it's the original brake pedal, just cut down, do you think I would have issues getting that mod certed?

IMG_2396.JPG.096d2474cbe510a2f34f1d0302988c93.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a good crack at the wiring last night. It's a good feeling pulling all the auto trans loom out! Also deleted the traction control. I think this engine has been sitting for a long time. All the injectors are stuck, the fuel rail stinks of rotten fuel and there was a small rats nest in the valley...image.thumb.jpeg.430610f2add496574ac3968c60680575.jpeg

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have to confess I gave Super Cheap's colour match rattle cans a go on the fender. Its the Lyndar stuff and I think it looks pretty good after a few coats of clear. It matches fairly well considering the rest of the paint is 30+ years old.

IMG_2666.JPG.e180858a00a6555ecd6fb09051281ae7.JPG

Also got the firewall sanded down ready for a coat, no more rust found yet...

IMG_2682.JPG.09c8eb2e7ab0f5a11d2d4ade812ecca8.JPG

IMG_2695.JPG.283b8222ff89644b91d12bad125f5ada.JPG

The clutch line & bracket off the Cressida fits nicely with a few minor tweaks. I'll drill it & hopefully get some paint on this weekend.

IMG_2693.JPG.7fed9afc60c31dcbf55bc1a0cfc254d2.JPG

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

The callipers were in a bad way. Both pistons were frozen in and pitted, but Safe-R-Brakes managed to cross them over to a Mazda piston of the same size. IMG_2966.JPG.e2c86f78d83b5357375aca1faa7e8e0a.JPG

IMG_2975.JPG.d6d8acdbd292acf1b947fabb14b434f6.JPG

FullSizeRender.jpg.a967d474963f52eb88d0b7a4a9275b33.jpg

Having the genuine pads was a life saver. It has all 12 separate anti-rattle clips, I think I was missing most of them. Should stop nicely now too!

I see Repco has the Ferodo GP2 pads on clearance for $10 a set, anyone have experience with them being noisy/dusty etc? Thinking of getting some for the future. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Mount time! I didn't have much choice with engine positioning. I've got maybe 10mm ether side. I'll take a threaded casting off the steering box to give it more room. The steering center link means I can't go back any further without cutting the sump but the crank pulley already sits a little further back than the 5m did.

IMG_3062.JPG.1faff24cb2621e1fbd9f4409f16dfb5e.JPG

IMG_3054.JPG.43977a83a2c09d23158f20ccc66c16bb.JPG

IMG_3050.JPG.5aeee40064531594d6565c4029f32800.JPG

The remote filter housing just clears the factory mount position, it'll be easy to change from underneath.

IMG_3052.JPG.5e7ad3bd4e008163214e43362fc0ea21.JPG

The gearbox mount for a RNZ147 Hilux has a greater offset than the factory mount, bringing the auto cross-member close to its original position.

IMG_3132.JPG.09209b51e9abe3910d45e474796c275c.JPG

With all that lined up the chassis mount position is about 90mm offset to the 1uz mount position. The engine mounts from an FJ40 fit really nice in the limited space, have limits to catch the engine if the rubber fails & also have a female thread on the bottom which will make installation a breeze. The Mount Shop were super helpful with tracking those down.

IMG_3122.JPG.aaca98b7b22bc52f8d36d9d162a12310.JPG

My father-in law came by, took some measurements & drew up some sweet brackets to bring it all together. Looks much nicer than I would have cobbled together, should make for a tidy job!

IMG_3134.JPG.8ebbcf85283b4127153242d44f6e828c.JPG

IMG_3135.JPG.dd59e30d021e8b52de286d27e6734557.JPG

 

 

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...