Bluebear01

Bluebear01's '83 Toyota Crown

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So I've been trying to make up my mind over the last year whether to stick with the auto, or go manual. The auto TCU was missing, so that was going to be a pain, but the W series boxes are just so pricey!  I was looking at the Spitronics trans controllers till I spotted this old girl at the local wreckers. Looked in and sure enough, 5 speed!

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So I thought, stuff it. Manual is cooler. Haven't counted if it's a W55 or 57, but I'll be happy with ether. Also grabbed pedal box & driveshaft.

The guys were happy for a swap with my old 5M & trans, everyone wins!

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Good ol' Toyota gave me provision under the dash for the clutch pedal box, just a slight difference in the upper hole spacing between it & the Cressida setup. IMG_2368.thumb.JPG.e1293f5e17c7b52ceae76a76007ad1c0.JPG

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Which didn't take too much to rectify...

 

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But there is quite a difference between the MS112 & RX60 brake pedals, so I'll stick with the original for now. I'd like to cut down the auto pedal pad area, but I'm aware this will require cert. Since it's the original brake pedal, just cut down, do you think I would have issues getting that mod certed?

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Had a good crack at the wiring last night. It's a good feeling pulling all the auto trans loom out! Also deleted the traction control. I think this engine has been sitting for a long time. All the injectors are stuck, the fuel rail stinks of rotten fuel and there was a small rats nest in the valley...image.thumb.jpeg.430610f2add496574ac3968c60680575.jpeg

 

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So I went through & cleaned out each injector, every one was stuck and the fuel rail was full of sludge. The starter had been sitting in water for a while, so it got some new bearings, contacts & plunger.

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I had to get the vacuum out to clean up the valley, and gave the whole thing a careful wash while I'm waiting on cambelt bits.

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I'm quite keen to get the A/C working so I can experience the Crown parcel tray fridge! A/C pump got a new pulley bearing & I had a look at the wiring. Looks like magnetic clutch feed, 2 wire speed sensor & a 12v feed to a solenoid at the rear of the pump. Anyone have experience getting these 1uz pumps working in a conversion?

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I also finally found a body plug for the ECU! Mine is the early 3 plug type with a 22 pin body plug that is usually missing. Turns out they have the same plug as found on a 4age ecu, but completely different to a 4afe ecu. With the plug I could fire it up on the bench to make sure it wasn't a dud. No issues there, it quite happily popped out fault codes for the unconnected sensors.

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It's been a slow month, but I've started prepping the engine bay. I've started to find all the hidden rust I was nervously anticipating, but so far much better than my old Vauxhall was! The R/F inner guard had a nice mudflap shaped hole which was good practice since ill never see my armature repair once it's back together.

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I tried to take a bit more care with the repair to the rotten double skin on the top of the guard. I found it pretty tricky to match the curve of the original, but after a bit of filler I'm pretty happy with the result. The closest grade of steel to the original I could find was an old 'WOF Open' sign laying around.IMG_2586.JPG.d4e5faac4e8833537ab5ecbc29b96965.JPG

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Next is to tackle the other side & paint. I guess I should look into getting a gun and compressor setup if I want to do a nice job of it...

 

 

 

 

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Ticking a few more boxes in the engine bay. I'm taking it further than I was planning on, but it is fun making everything like new. Seal kits are still cheap for the master and the booster just needed a lick of paint.

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I have to confess I gave Super Cheap's colour match rattle cans a go on the fender. Its the Lyndar stuff and I think it looks pretty good after a few coats of clear. It matches fairly well considering the rest of the paint is 30+ years old.

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Also got the firewall sanded down ready for a coat, no more rust found yet...

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The clutch line & bracket off the Cressida fits nicely with a few minor tweaks. I'll drill it & hopefully get some paint on this weekend.

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The front brake rotors arrived outa Aus and they look good! Ended up being a real pain to get wheel bearings. All the remaining stock had been on the shelf so long it took me 3 goes to get some that weren't damaged or had bits missing. 

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The callipers were in a bad way. Both pistons were frozen in and pitted, but Safe-R-Brakes managed to cross them over to a Mazda piston of the same size. IMG_2966.JPG.e2c86f78d83b5357375aca1faa7e8e0a.JPG

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Having the genuine pads was a life saver. It has all 12 separate anti-rattle clips, I think I was missing most of them. Should stop nicely now too!

I see Repco has the Ferodo GP2 pads on clearance for $10 a set, anyone have experience with them being noisy/dusty etc? Thinking of getting some for the future. 

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Mount time! I didn't have much choice with engine positioning. I've got maybe 10mm ether side. I'll take a threaded casting off the steering box to give it more room. The steering center link means I can't go back any further without cutting the sump but the crank pulley already sits a little further back than the 5m did.

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The remote filter housing just clears the factory mount position, it'll be easy to change from underneath.

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The gearbox mount for a RNZ147 Hilux has a greater offset than the factory mount, bringing the auto cross-member close to its original position.

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With all that lined up the chassis mount position is about 90mm offset to the 1uz mount position. The engine mounts from an FJ40 fit really nice in the limited space, have limits to catch the engine if the rubber fails & also have a female thread on the bottom which will make installation a breeze. The Mount Shop were super helpful with tracking those down.

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My father-in law came by, took some measurements & drew up some sweet brackets to bring it all together. Looks much nicer than I would have cobbled together, should make for a tidy job!

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Haven’t done much over summer, but I have just about finished the mounts. I’ve had to give the engine a small tilt away from the steering box, I’m hoping any torque twist will be under 10mm, that’s about all the gap I’ve got. 

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I’m getting the driveshaft lengthened by 110mm next week, it looks like the A series auto has the same yoke as the W55. 

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