Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted May 17, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 17, 2019 I've gone front to back replacing all the old low pressure fuel hoses. I chopped the engine bay fuel lines a foot shorter to tidy it up, and I found a nice spot underneath for the filter. The fuel tank pickup hole is tiny at 45mm, but I've managed to fit the new electric pump to the pickup and squeeze it through. I've ordered a bulkhead terminal for power, then it's just pump wiring and the fuel system is sorted... Thanks for watching! 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted May 20, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 20, 2019 Something I've been looking forward to for a year, putting the front back together. Luckily my two boys didn't go and loose all my bolts, and lots of pictures makes it so easy. The paint turned out nice too which is a bonus. Now the front is all bolted up the fuse box & wiring can go in, then I'll figure out the ECU wiring. I've got new neighbors moving in soon, might be making a good/bad first impression depending on their tastes. Maybe I should hook up the exhaust first... 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted May 26, 2019 Author Share Posted May 26, 2019 Small update - got the rear brakes rebuilt & bled the system, first time I've had a brake pedal in 12 months. I also had the fuel bulkhead terminal arrive so I got the fuel pump all done & fitted. So nice & quiet in the tank! I did manage to make it move this weekend too! I'll try and get a video up some time... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted May 27, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 27, 2019 My oldest was super excited, he's done quite a bit on it over the last 2 years. Stoked to finally get it moving! There is still quite a bit to do before it's on the road, but the motivation is very helpful! 19 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted September 12, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 12, 2019 Another long stretch with no progress! I've been trying to find someone Id be happy with to run the exhaust, but as with most things on this build I've decided to give it a crack myself. I can only blame myself if it turns out bad. A big part of the motivation for this swap is the V8 sound, so I'm going to try 2 inch into 2.5 after the box with a decent muffler towards the back. I might change it around later if it doesn't sound right, definitely not keen on a high speed drone. Anyway here's the beginnings of my efforts. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted September 22, 2019 Author Share Posted September 22, 2019 The exhaust front section is pretty much done, I’ll just hook it up to the old system for now and finish the rest on a hoist. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted September 24, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 24, 2019 Front end back together after a year and a half. Now she's out in the sun all the body issues are painfully obvious! I've got some rust to fix over the R/R wheel and in the boot, and the clear is coming off in sheets, but it drives sooo nice. It's like night and day from the old 5M, and definitely glad I went manual. I've still got a long list of small stuff to tick off before cert, but I feel I'm on the home stretch now. 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 Yikes, what a mad rush the end of that year was! I only got the smallest of windows to plug away at this, starting with finalising the wiring. I'm trying to wire this as close to the factory 1uz diagram as I can, while keeping it looking like Mr Toyota did the work back in 1983. I tried the Narva fuse blocks, but they have a really nasty loose feel to them. I grabbed a fuse box from a diesel Corona which carries 3 relays & a fuse which is perfect. It feels & looks better, not that anyone else will ever see it mind you. I've finished a test fit of all the relays, it runs well now with the idle speed controller receiving power 5 seconds after shutdown for reset and the fuel pump relay running from the ECU. Next I'll tidy it all up & test the air flometer, it seems to be running a bit rich. The TPS might need an adjustment to, there is a hunting issue around 1500rpm. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 Wow, this got buried quick! Everyone is working hard on their projects obviously. Relay loom is done & working well, although I'm getting a code for speed sensor if I rev it too much. I might see if I can trigger the ECU neutral wire or feed the speed signal from the dash speed output before I put it in permanently. I've calibrated the throttle plate & TPS. The TPS had a fluctuating resistance curve off idle, after pulling it apart & cleaning it came up like new. The hesitation around 1500rpm is gone now, but it is still running rich and feels like it's running on 7. The leads had a few that were open circuit which doesn't help and the plugs were fairly old. Miles Toyota had the cheapest lead set I could find and it came with a lot of the plastic guides, sweet! Even better, but still running rich and a hairy idle. Maybe the compressed air and brake clean wasn't the best method for cleaning the injectors. After pulling them and pressurising the rail - yup, most are leaking a bit. A refurbished genuine set off eBay was half the price of cleaning locally, so they are on the way for next month. While I'm waiting I'll get the radiator fan sorted & try and make up some kind of air filter/cold air intake setup. All these small details feel like wading through mud! I guess that's why most projects end up getting "95%" complete. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 It's the little things in life (that I seem to put off). The heater tap works thank goodness, doesn't look like an easy one to source. Wiper motor also good, just in need of a clean, re-grease & paint. A combination of Z hoses & random bits from Super Cheap 's hose bin got the heater core connected up. Next up will be the air filter. I'd like to avoid a pod filter, I'll see if the factory 5M-E filter housing might be usable. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 I had the old radiator re-cored by Burnside Radiators a couple of years ago, so no issues there. The 1uz came with the viscus hub fan, but it would be a pain to get a cowling to fit & I'm not keen for it to sound like a van. In keeping with the shoe-string budget I went climbing through the local wreckers with a tape measure & found a pretty bloody close fit. It almost looks like it was made for it! I'll do some minor trimming to fit it on, then wire it in. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 Rebuilt stock injectors from the States, including all seals. A bargain at $160 to my door. I’ve just about finished sorting out the air filter, then the engine can go back together and we’ll see how it runs. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 I’ve chopped up a factory 5M-E air filter housing to take a afm adapter and changed the mounts to bring the afm in line with the intake hose. It’s a tight fit, but just snugs in nicely between the fuse box and coolant overflow. It’s nice and solid, and changing the filter is nice and easy. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 So all back together with the new injectors, running much better but not perfect. It’s still got a stumble off idle and still seems a bit rich. The o2 sensors for both banks are reading a constant rich 0.9v at idle, then start a healthy 0.8v-0.2v cycle after 2500rpm. That’s about where it starts running really sweet too. I knew the injectors, leads, plugs and TPS were all spot on at this stage, but I had no reason to trust the air flow meter other than it runs rubbish without it. So I plugged in the scope and had a look. At first I thought I had a bad connection, but after triple checking everything this is the signal at idle. Nothing at all! After revving up past 2500rpm she starts running sweet, leans out and at the same time pops out this signal... Gotcha! It all makes sense now. Time to hunt out another air flow meter. That raises the question, secondhand or chinesium? I can’t imagine it would be easy to make a reliable Chinese Karmen Vortex on the cheap? But it’s got to be getting hard to trust a 30 year old part too... Anyone have any experience with new aftermarket afm’s for the 1uz? Cheers for reading! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted February 4, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 4, 2020 My options were Ali Express special at $60, genuine new for $470 or get some guy in Aus to rebuild it for $600. I wasn’t going to risk second guessing my diagnosis with a cheap part, but also keen to save some coin where I can. I wasn’t going to make it any worse, so it’s worth a shot to see if I can fix it. Lifting the board off and cutting open the main section reveals the tiny reflective metal diaphragm that two diodes stare at to work out air flow. Nothing appears broken, but the diaphragm is a bit sticky and stained. I polished it up and cleaned everything as carefully as I could, then put it all back together. I popped it back in and fully expected to have killed it, but I now have a perfect signal from idle! It runs smooth as silk and the o2 sensors are reading a nice lean mix at idle. Stoked with that. 34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted February 26, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 26, 2020 Next up is the fan controller. I got a 2 speed controller from Davies Craig, if the temp doesn't drop enough after 10 seconds of the first fan it kicks in the second fan. Also has an A/C trigger for when I get to that. I've seen a few of these mounted under bonnet but it isn't advertised as water resistant so I wired it up under the dash. That way I can have radiator temp while driving if needed. Once I mocked up length it's all been tucked under the guard with the rest of the loom. The early 1uz doesn't have a Te2 pin on the under bonnet diagnostic connector to trigger live data output, but it does have one on the ECU. I've gone and wired in a standard Toyota connector under the dash with Te2 for live data with the hope of getting a Toyobd1 Bluetooth dongle at some stage. They are hand made by a cool Canadian bloke so take some time to become available. Next up is Tach. Keen to keep the stock look inside so I swapped in the guts of a RX60 4cyl Cressida tach hoping that would give me an accurate reading. It did for about 5 minutes but then died. Swapping in the original 6cyl tach did the same thing. Maybe they didn't like the trigger signal from the ignition module? The newer style of tach from a 90's Corolla has the same bolt spacing for the card. I just needed to drill out the needle 0.5mm and fit a needle stop, the newer style has no internal limit to rotation other than the clock spring. Beautiful. I quite like the font on these older dashes the more I look at them. Next up is sorting the check engine light and possibly stealing a speed signal off the rear of the cluster for the ECU to avoid a pesky fault code. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted April 11, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 11, 2020 Now the engine is running sweet it's onto the interior. It's got the factory radio with a sweet mechanical auto search and cassette deck. The volume control crackles, the auto search jams, the cassette deck chews tapes and half the lights are blown. Despite all that I don't want to cut the dash to put a new unit in but I'd be keen on Bluetooth and the ability to play the odd cassette. First up is getting the cassette deck working. As with most old car decks it's just incredibly dirty inside and important rubber components have gone hard. I pulled it down, cleaned it out and put rubber conditioner on the belts and wheels while also lightly sanding the glazing off the wheels. I also cleaned the volume pot and replaced the bulbs with the closest size I could find at Jaycar. It plays better than I imagined! Doesn't sound too bad at all. I'll replace the old speakers as well and see if I need an amp later. The Bluetooth was pretty easy to install. If I tricked the stereo into thinking the cassette deck was playing I could inject a stereo audio signal and have full control of volume/tone/fade/balance of the Bluetooth from the stereo. I tried a little Bluetooth chip off ebay but it picked up heaps of interference and was pretty picky with power supply. I binned that and tried a neat Fusion unit which worked a treat and sounded far better than it has any right to in this setup. After carefully cutting the front plate & wiring in a switch and a little blue bulb she's done! 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 Great weather to push her outside & get stuck into the interior. The ECU fits nicely above the glovebox where the 5M ECU would have gone on the EFI model. Then the airbox can go back in and the relay box and fan controller/diagnostic port fit on nicely. Feels good to finally have the engine wiring complete! I'm still getting fault codes for the missing trans computer unfortunately. They are dormant in the ECU but they throw the check engine light up when the engine is revved up. I have heard it's possible to wire in an old Surf trans computer to keep it happy, but it might be easier at this stage to wire in a timer relay to kill the check engine light 10 seconds after startup. That way if I have a hard code for something more serious ill still spot it on startup. I've also replaced the speakers front/ back with Sony/Kenwood. They actually sound really good just running from the factory stereo which is surprising. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebear01 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 The top of the door cards has been falling apart for a long time now, and the parcel tray carpet was turning to dust from all the UV. I managed to send them away & get them back before lockdown, Derrick at NZ Vinyl did a great job at a great price. The central locking hadn't worked for 5 years, turns out the solenoid contacts were just rusted out. Some cleaning & spare parts brought them back. It now locks the doors above 30kph again which freaks passengers out! That's pretty much all I can do from home. After the lockdown its off to work for me to repair some rust, replace the shocks, new rear tyres, driveshaft hoops, wheel alignment and WOF. Then hopefully book in Cert! Looking forward to some long road trips all over the place very soon! 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bluebear01 Posted May 8, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 8, 2020 It's been 3 years since I got the engine and I've finally booked in Cert! It's in for Friday the 15th, the pressure's on to get it finished now. I got it to work at Level 3 and carried on with the list. The ECU was still throwing 4 fault codes for the missing trans computer. The codes would remain dormant in the ECU until I gave the engine full throttle, then it would put up the check light. From the looks of it I could ether wire in a newer ECU with the trans computer combined or retrofit a separate Surf trans computer. I've gone for the 3rd option for now which is to wire in a timer relay to kill the check engine light 10 seconds after startup. This way I can still see if there are any hard codes every time I start it, and can easily check the flash codes with an extra switch I've put in. I've also thrown in some new shocks and made up a slightly longer clutch pushrod out of an old bolt to get a decent clutch pedal. I guess the best time to go digging into the rust is with 1 week till cert! It's not too bad, but what would you guys recommend is a good product to fill in the cavities to avoid future cancer? While I had my head in there all the talk lately about tyre age made me look at the date codes. Yikes, 2004 on the front and 2002 on the rear! So a new set of Maxxis are going on before cert too. Thanks for watching! 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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