Giant

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1 hour ago, Firetruck said:

I have used a variable vane from a 1KD on my 3L. Just used a standard boost actuator to control it which worked kind of well. It was a bit surgy at lower throttle since it was trying make full boost all the time but tweaking the vane stop screw got it to an acceptable state.

Yea im using a 10psi actuator aswell, works well except if you have the vanes too closed then off-throttle motorway cruise can be abit jerky, but easily adjusted

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1 hour ago, Giant said:

Hx40 is a big bastard for a td27  what sort of boost are you targeting?

yea hx40 is just a frame size, but i would like to be using one of the larger compressors(but have a smaller one here that may get used until i find a new turbo guy) so yea crazy for a td27 on it's own but when you do the calc's for compound turbo the big turbo needs about 2.5x the flow of the little turbo, I'm not shooting for high boost, more for decent airflow at acceptable temps so 25psi but only 12-13psi each turbo, and with little exhaust restriction.

I think when driving unloaded it may not even make that much boost, but once you've got a full truck and trailer then it will come into it's own. it's my first compound turbo so I might get it all wrong haha

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I've been thinking of a compound super-turbo, I have a M45 charger that can happily spin to about 15K rpm, so geared 1:3 and being fed by a large turbo should net some good boosts and bad intake temps

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1 hour ago, drftnmaz said:

Anyone else use variable vane turbo's on their diesels? I use a garrett gt2056 with 1.0 housing on my td27+T with actuator to control the vanes, Works quite well, want to compound charge next but worried about small shaft size of little turbo so probably change to gt3063 as the small turbo and hx40 as big

The gt2056v is too small for a 2.7l. A gt2260v would be better. I was going to compound turbo my land rover, 2.5tdi. Use the orginal turbo and them something like a gt2860,  Would be good for over 400nm by 2000rpm. But ive since decided to go with an Isuzu 4bd1t

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1 hour ago, Firetruck said:

I have used a variable vane from a 1KD on my 3L. Just used a standard boost actuator to control it which worked kind of well. It was a bit surgy at lower throttle since it was trying make full boost all the time but tweaking the vane stop screw got it to an acceptable state.

For vnt's to work properly they need to be controlled electronically. There a few designs using an arduino out there

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2 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said:

The gt2056v is too small for a 2.7l. A gt2260v would be better. I was going to compound turbo my land rover, 2.5tdi. Use the orginal turbo and them something like a gt2860,  Would be good for over 400nm by 2000rpm. But ive since decided to go with an Isuzu 4bd1t

yea it's size is borderline, but it was off a 3.3L volvo boat so it's the biggest spec of the 2056's in the 1.0 ex housing, the rear end can flow way more than the  0.48 t25/t28's found factory on the qd32, most 2056v's I see are 0.64 ex housing and smaller inducer compressors.
I have a gt3063klv with 0.74 housing that will go on next, it's quite similar to the 2860, but smaller compressor inlet, smaller a/r on the compressor housing and larger 10blade gt30 turbine, but most importantly the strong shaft so compound won't worry me

For motorway cruise i have made a accumulator canister and couple of air control solenoids so i can hold open the valve while motorway cruising, but haven't got round to installing or testing yet, rust is keeping me busy atm

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22 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said:

For vnt's to work properly they need to be controlled electronically. There a few designs using an arduino out there

I know, I built one years ago but never got onto programming it. I'm also not fussed with properly. It makes millions of boost right off the mark so I'm happy with it as it is.

I'll probably switch to a 1KZ turbo now though since the compressor housing got damaged, and the CT12b and CT16V share the same manifold flange. Dunno what the max boost is of a CT12b but I'll find it by trial and error.

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Diesel engines are a bit of voodoo to me. Lean is cool, and rich is hot?  

Are they as sensitive to intake temperatures as petrol engines? Say you crammed 14psi into an LD28 at 59C, and bumped the fuel pressure as far as you could without running engine destroying egt's, would that same egt be achievable with more fuel if the intake temp was brought down to say 25c?

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37 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Diesel engines are a bit of voodoo to me. Lean is cool, and rich is hot?  

Are they as sensitive to intake temperatures as petrol engines? Say you crammed 14psi into an LD28 at 59C, and bumped the fuel pressure as far as you could without running engine destroying egt's, would that same egt be achievable with more fuel if the intake temp was brought down to say 25c?

Basically. More air means you can burn more fuel until you reach the limits of how much the pump can deliver and how much the injectors can flow with out the injection window becoming too big

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So lower temperature means more air is getting in. A diesel piner told me the trick is to wind up the pressure untIL egt get to a magic number. After which engine failure is eminent 

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On 2/22/2018 at 19:55, Giant said:

has anyone here run water meth in a diesel?

I have all the stuff just haven't got around to it yet. Too many project cars and project humans.

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On 2/22/2018 at 20:43, 00quattro00 said:

Just get more air into it, water meth should be a last resort to control egt

Is he doing it specifically to lower EGT's? If so yeah, intercooler is simple and effective but also have to think about getting the gases out with a bigger exhaust/downpipe.

Also I plan on 50/50 water meth for the extra fuel as well as the added benefit of cleaning the head and valves.

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