NickJ Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 5 minutes ago, Beaver said: Silly question, but how are your glowplugs? On the check list, internet seems to say the engine doesn't need them but i'll pull them and test anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 48 minutes ago, Beaver said: Silly question, but how are your glowplugs? Bugger it, popped out to the truck with a multimeter and spanner, can only reach 3 of 4 but they read 86, 86 and 7 Ohm. Hold the line, might owe you a beer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 I've deleted the egr in my 1kz 70 series. What's the easiest way to get the soft shutdown back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 44 minutes ago, JustHarry said: I've deleted the egr in my 1kz 70 series. What's the easiest way to get the soft shutdown back? T the 2 vacuum pots together, hook up to the solenoid valve that opens when the key is off. Remind me in an hour and I can take pics of how I did it in my KZH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 4 hours ago, Raizer said: T the 2 vacuum pots together, hook up to the solenoid valve that opens when the key is off. Remind me in an hour and I can take pics of how I did it in my KZH Reminder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Beers 4 @Beaver! Picked up 4 new glowplugs at first light, threw them in and unsurprisingly the voltmeter now drops to 11V on pre-start, never done that in my ownership! Turn the key and the engine was tripping all over itself to start. Pretty stoked to finally have it starting with ease, hopefully the last two years of ownership haven't taken too much out of the starter. That will teach me for reading too many Land Rover barry forums that state the 300tdi doesn't need glow plugs, although I would still like to do a compression test for future reference. 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 i r mecanuk 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Replaced a failed spill valve in the 78 series this arvo. Cunt of a job. Had to cut a 32mm spanner down to undo it. Was a tense few seconds waiting for the air to come out and start. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 All healthy other than the diff then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 9 minutes ago, NickJ said: All healthy other than the diff then? Seems to be. Drove it round the field in fwd and gearbag/clutch seems fine. I think the diff broke before anything else haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 1 hour ago, JustHarry said: Reminder 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 22 hours ago, Raizer said: Sweet. Will have a look at mine In the weekend and see if i can make it work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 11 hours ago, JustHarry said: Sweet. Will have a look at mine In the weekend and see if i can make it work. Oh yeah, dunno if it differs across models etc but I found if I fully removed EGR the ECU got a bit unhappy and would throw up a CEL and go into limp mode So I've got the vacuum solenoid plugged in and cable tied out of the way in the engine bay, doesn't need vacuum hooked up just the electrical side of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 3 minutes ago, Raizer said: Oh yeah, dunno if it differs across models etc but I found if I fully removed EGR the ECU got a bit unhappy and would throw up a CEL and go into limp mode So I've got the vacuum solenoid plugged in and cable tied out of the way in the engine bay, doesn't need vacuum hooked up just the electrical side of things. Yeah I've left everything there for that same reson. Just blanked the pipe off. The solenoids are the same so will be close enough 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Possibly not want you want to achieve but I'll add it anyway, on my townace I blocked the egr it didnt idle very well after that so I removed the throttle plate but left the actuator and shaft there all hooked up so the ecu thought it was working It ran a lot better and used less diesel 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 15 minutes ago, cletus said: Possibly not want you want to achieve but I'll add it anyway, on my townace I blocked the egr it didnt idle very well after that so I removed the throttle plate but left the actuator and shaft there all hooked up so the ecu thought it was working It ran a lot better and used less diesel Twin butterfly throttlebody in these older 1kz negates that a lot, the smaller blade is normally wide open. The vacuum pot is for closing it, one of the ports closes it a bit over half way when the EGR is open and then the second port is to pull it the rest of the way shut for soft shutdown. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 forgive me, i haven't read any posts in this thread yet. and this post is quite long for the relevant info rather than 20 posts. i have some questions about My 1987 Mazda van E2200 with R2 diesel. the engine should only have approx. 100,000km on it (van has 500,000, but previous owner said the engine was replaced with a BRAND NEW, not reco engine 80,000 km before i got it and i've done approx. 20,000km) i assume it's due for a timing belt for age and kms( no idea how old the engine is but the 20,000 i did was in the last 6yrs) the last time i drove it, it had sat for 12 months or more and that was over 12 months ago also(so done 20km only in 2 years now) main reason i haven't driven it, is i'm too scared incase the belt has jumped a tooth. last time i drove it, it stalled at idle at traffic lights and was more gutless/slow than usual. (it starts very easily still, i accidentally started it cranking the motor to check the battery in summer 9months ago, fired up within one revolution or less without glow plugs) just wondering if the stalling/gutless is likely caused by timing belt(danger fix immediately) or could it be fuel stale(had a stabilizer added 6months after being parked 18months ago) or could it be something else(rat nest in the air box? ) cracked fuel hose sucking air?(idles too smooth for that i would think) i've had several reasons i haven't looked at it, back is sore, red back spiders are under it everywhere .. can't really afford to take it to a rip off mechanic, i don't trust them to break it anyway.. (brooom brrooom crash... oh yeah it was the belt mate, needs a new engine now.. cheers) Thanks in advance for any pointers, places to check etc. i did wonder if the valve lash might need checking(zero lash?) but can't find any info online about the engine and haven't lifted the rocker cover to see if they are even adjustable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 My experience with timing belts is they don't skip teeth, they strip teeth. Not saying it's impossible, but it seems highly unlikely. You have to have a lot of slop in the belt to jump a tooth out, which will mean a failed tensioner and you would hear the belt flapping all over the show. Easy to check though, the upper timing covers are easy to remove. Pull the fuel filter off and see how much slime is in it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taistorm Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 Yeah I would probably look at fuel first, possibly not the issue but it's an easy place to start. Could be as easy as perished lines causing air leaks or possible blockages. I've had many call outs from machinery not starting or running like a bag of shit due to them having fuel blockages in the tank. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 The tanks probably full of diesel bug blocking up the pickup/ strainer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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