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5 hours ago, Yowzer said:

You won't have any EGT issues with a stock engine. Flush / recore the radiator, flush the block, replace the viscose fan hub and you'll be mint.

And if it has EGR, blank that shit off.

 

This plus check your belts and thermostat (just change mine to a 71deg and my old 82 was only opening halfway at 95) plus if its auto, an aftermarket trans cooler is the go.. 

 

*edit.. It is manual, scrap that last bit

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 24/01/2019 at 19:20, Yowzer said:

Yup 3” from churbro to bumper. Helps the fucker spin up faster too

3" sounds fucking stupid and unnecessary on a 1kz

2.5" mandrel bent straight from turbo outlet with a single super turbo muffler. Most effective power gains with no extra horrible noise..

 

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Gentlemen, I am new to diesel spanner work, so please forgive my possibly dumb questions:

Background:

  • I recently bought a '95 C3500, double cab Chev 6.5 turbo auto 4x4. The engine is out of a '94 dually (which is rusting away right beside the C3500). Both the engine and chassis have about 200,000kms on them
  • Some months after the initial installation, the '94 engine popped off an oil line (about three and a half years ago), so the previous owner used a 'Jesus'/Omega clip from a window winder to put the oil line back on. 
  • A week or two later the engine evidently overheated and ran badly. The previous owner advised that the oil got hot but the water didn't. I don't know how he knew that as there's a (faulty) electronic oil pressure gauge, but no oil temperature gauge. There is a water temperature gauge.
  • The vehicle has sat in a salty paddock for the last three and a half years.
  • The ignition key has been lost
  • The previous owner is resourceful, had three other similar trucks to rob parts from, but is not particularly mechanical
  • All of the people that repair anything here do a half arse job. Partly because they don't really care, and partly because conditions are tough and parts are hard/slow to get
  • The engine oil level is good.
  • The transmission oil level is good
  • The coolant is full of crud
  • I have access to a couple of similar Chevs for spares
  • I have very limited tools, and am working outside in a paddock full of sheep shit and thistles

What I've done in the last few days:

  • After much research I drilled out the ignition barrel. I have a new barrel and key on standby in Auckland
  • I installed two new batteries
  • I have the ignition  barrel turning now (with a screwdriver hammered into it), and can feel Acc, Ign and Start as I rotate the screwdriver
  • The dash lights do not come on, the engine did not crank, and none of the gauges move
  • The blower fan works when the ignition is on, but not when it's off... so rotating ignition barrel is doing at least something
  • The wipers and headlights work regardless of 'key' position
  • One of two interior lights work
  • Based on the above, and some checks with a multi-meter, I have diagnosed a faulty ignition switch (in addition to the drilled out ignition barrel), which is evidently a common problem, so using pliers to short two connections on the ignition switch I have been able to engage the starter motor
  • The starter cranks the engine very slowly. Far too slow to start.
  • I have cleaned all the battery terminals ( 2 x 12v batteries in parallel), replaced one dodgy earth cable, but have not been able to get the main +ve cable off the starter motor due to very limited space. The engine still cranks very slowly.
  • The engine could be very tight due to having been overheated about 3.5 years ago. I don't know for sure. The slow cranking could be bad battery connections (unlikely with the exception of the starter end of the +ve wire), a symptom of the bad ignition switch, be a weak starter motor, the engine could just be time seized, be hydraulicing, or some other thing I haven't thought of

Question:

  • What's the easiest way to remove compression from the motor so I can narrow down the slow cranking problem? Pull out a few injectors?
  • Any other bright ideas?

 

 

 

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She got glow plugs? Whip those out. Will still build some compression as starter builds rpm though. 

Alternatively remove injectors but bugger that unless you really need to. 

any power to glow plugs?

Ive had a wee bit of experience by osmosis with a 350ci diesel. It required the mintest of starter motors and cables to get it to spin up to anywhere near were it would fire. Along with a Good glow it’d fire up. 

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Pass wrt glow plug operation. As the ignition module is toast they're probably not operating.

They're all there but look very rusty and flimsy (they're below the injectors). I can probably get the four LHS ones out without too much drama, but the RHS ones will probably need the turbo removed for access. I assume glow plus are threaded and I just spin them anti-clockwise to remove them?

I should have mentioned that I won't do too many heroics to get this thing running. If it's too far gone I'll walk away from it.

Thanks heaps for the responses

 

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Probably worth trying to get as many glow plugs out as possible (even if only one bank) and then spin it to verify that it will spin over freely (preferably by hand to avoid junking that starter more then it already is if there isn't another one on the Island)

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2 hours ago, Evan said:

Probably worth trying to get as many glow plugs out as possible (even if only one bank) and then spin it to verify that it will spin over freely (preferably by hand to avoid junking that starter more then it already is if there isn't another one on the Island)

I'll try removing glow plugs  tomorrow. Hand spinning is hard as there's no central bolt easily accessible on the front crank pulley. If there is one it's buried behind the drive belt pulley which has four rusty bolts fixing it to the harmonic balancer. I tried to move them but they weren't budging

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20 hours ago, Yowzer said:

Nah m9, 3" or go home

If it's unnecessary, you haven't wound the boost up enough.

Lol.. ok. 

I reached max boost without intercooler due to so much coal then added intercooler and more boost.  Apart from sound like a fucking tractor. Went back to 2.5 mandrel bent and was alot more quiet and no noticeable drop in performance.

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15 hours ago, Yowzer said:

If the belts are tight enough (although I'm guessing they're shit) the engine should be easy enough to spin without the glow plugs that you should be able to wind it around from the alternator or other easily accessible item.

Thanks for that. The alternator did have a bolt in it that I could access, but no matter how tight the belt was all I as able to do was to compress the rubber in the crank pulley to crank interface. This engine is very, very tight. Removing four glow plugs didn't help at all.

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I dunno. It feels (for absolutely no reason other than gut feel) that the issue is down low rather than in the bores. I was wondering if a crank thrust washer had moved, or some other hideous thing had happened to the lower part of the rotating mass (remember that the previous owner said it overheated in the oil and the oil smelt very hot, but the water didn't get hot (info I only got today), and then he parked it running very rough), but I guess it couldn't hurt to get something into the cylinders before pulling the engine!

Good thinking bat people.

The engine oil level is good so I don't think diesel has been dripping into the crankcase anywhere.  I guess I've turned the motor over (via the starter) about 30 - 45 revolutions in the last couple of days. I can buy WD40 here. Rost-off will be harder to come by (but or course I have heaps at home in Wellington)

 

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